[This walk was completed on the 20th May 2022]
I return to the viewpoint above Tournaig, and hide my bike (somewhat unsuccessfully) at the bottom of a bank. My heart isn’t in the walk this morning.
Stand and take photos of the view across Loch Ewe. Shame the weather is dull and it is hard to take a decent photograph. Looks like rain over on those mountains.
It’s midday already. My studio apartment was cosy, and I had a leisurely breakfast and read a book while waiting for the morning drizzle to clear. Looks like I needn’t have bothered waiting as I’m going to get wet anyway.
Onwards. At least it’s downhill from here.
It begins to rain shortly after setting off, so I stop to pull on my waterproofs and stow my camera away. Needlesss to say, as soon as I’ve done this… it stops raining.
Around a corner, and there is a great view over the Isle of Ewe. I pull my camera out again. Sadly, it’s too dull and misty to get a decent shot, but I can see neat fields and a couple of houses.
People must live on the island. Sounds romantic, but the only access is by ferry and it will be bleak in winter.
The road swings inland and begins to climb again. Why does everything feel uphill this morning? The sign on the road says SLOW. Not possible to go any slower.
A trio of cyclists whizz around the bend, making the most of the downhill stretch to pick up speed. They look bright with their waterproofs on. Fully laden touring bikes – maybe doing the N500 by pedal power? All women, too.
There is a forested area to my left, but what a mess! The neatly cut trunks are actually fallen trees that would have been blocking the road until cleared to the side. No doubt this damage was the result of one of the trio of storms that hit Britian over the last winter. What a shame. Sad to see these fallen giants.
I see a little roadside memorial. For one awful moment, I think it was someone who lost their life in the storms – maybe by crashing into a fallen tree. And there I was mourning the trees!
As I get nearer, I realise its a memorial to someone called Callum MacIvor, who died in 2015, aged in his thirties. I wonder if he was a motorcyclist?
I’ve reached the top of the hill, and stop for a breather and to take more photographs of fallen trees.
It really is downhill from now on, and the clouds are beginning to clear. I pick up my pace. What a great view.
I’m looking across to a settlement on the other side of a little bay. Check my map. That weird little peninsula sticking out into the water is Aird Point (there are several Aird Points in Scotland – as I’ve remarked before, they’re very economical with names out here!).
I make progress down the hill. My camper van is parked in the next “viewpoint”, and I’m looking forward to seeing it again.
Look – a battered old pick-up truck by the side of the road. What a sad sight. Wonder if it came off the road, or if it was deliberately parked here (many farmers seem to use a abandoned cars as stores for animal feed, sheds for farming implements, and general hold-alls for ‘useful’ stuff.)
Round the next bend – and there’s my camper can. What a welcome sight.
I stand at this new viewpoint and take photos across the bay. There’s the Isle of Ewe to my left, and I can see right down to the mouth of Loch Ewe and the open sea beyond. Below me is a jetty and some industrial type structures carved into the slope. “Dolphins” says my map.
I spend some time looking for dolphins, but can see any sign of them.
Beside me there is yet another sculpture commemorating the Arctic Convoys that once used Loch Ewe as their harbour. Is that guy looking out for dolphins too?
My plan was to walk further today – down to a settlement called Aultbea and then along the road to Laide. But first I would have to go back and retreive my bike, then drive on to Laide, find somewhere to park, and then cycle back here… I haven’t got the heart for it.
So, ending what must be one of my shortest walks ever, I decide to call it a day.
In fact, I decide to call it the end of the trip. It is my last night in my comfortable apartment tonight, and tomorrow I was going to find a camp site for my camper van. BUT, it’s really cold and the weather is miserable. I’ve come unprepared for Scottish weather (when I packed for the trip I was just back from a glorious week in southern France, and it was unusually warm and sunny in Manchester) – and I haven’t brought enough warm clothes with me.
Time to go home.
Later, I find out more about Callum MacIver, who was tragically killed in 2015 on this stretch of road. He was, indeed, a motorcyclist, and was killed when he collided with a camper van. Later, his name was in the news again when a cross was stolen from his roadside memorial. How very sad.
I also realise I wasted my time looking for dolphins in the water. The “dolphins” on my map actually referred to something else completely – manmade docking rafts.
Miles walked today = an unbelievable 2 miles
Total around coast = 4,733 miles
Route:
Ruth's Coastal Walk (UK) 
Yes, you can see a ‘dolphin’ to the left of the jetty in your photo from the second viewpoint
Yes! But not quite the type of dophin I was hoping for 😀
Sorry to read of your low point. What you have done so far is magnificent and you are perhaps two thirds of the way up that difficult but rewarding west coast of Scotland and proved that you are more than capable of progressing there when logistics can be tricky. You will be back. I m sure you are an inspiration to many.
She’s certainly an inspiration to me Conrad 👍😊
Sometimes it’s better just to admit that your heart’s not in it. I expect that’ll happen to me tomorrow, with miles of road walking from Dumfries southwards, and thunderstorms forecasted!
Oh well.
Hope you don’t get too wet!
Even your short days are worth viewing. I had never thought about old cars and trucks being used for storage.
Dear Ruth – I hope your disillusionment is just a temporary fad and you will soon have renewed vigour. You have come so far you can’t stop now. Once you get to Tongue I assure you if minded you will be able to whizz down to Hull. There is a footpath most of the way and most of the east coast is easy walking and a lot of it very beautiful. The trouble is you have some of the toughest sections coming up, but they are very rewarding. Have you ever thought of getting someone to keep you company over these stretches? A kindred spirit? One of your daughters? I wish you all the best. Chin up!!!
I know you were cycling one way but I have found I enjoy walks where it’s a there and back walk (as I did around this part of the coast) on a busy A-road as having spent all the way there dodging traffic you have to do the same on the way back! I think I used both these view points too and had to abandon my walk at one of them when I discovered my flight home from Inverness was cancelled (as were all flights, owing to a strike).
As to the memorial I remember spotting it too, though it was partly under trees then. I think there was also a football shirt hanging up at the time, from the trees.
Some years ago we set out from Marazion to walk westwards. It soon started pouring with rain and two miles later in Penzance we abandoned the walk, went to a cafe and got the bus back. No point in walking on if it is not enjoyable. You will return with renewed enthusiasm.
Hi Ruth – 9 10ths of walking is always head and heart driven so sometimes some days are just not to be – nay bother.
Re the waterproofs, I’ve recently been trying the Paramo waterproof walking trousers which can be worn all the time. I’m really impressed and although not cheap they seem to be a good solution to the on off trouser dance we all do sometimes – Cheers Russ
This is only the second time I’ve heard the word ‘Dolphins’ used in this context, though as soon as I saw your photo I realised what the map was referring to. Near me, just off Lepe beach, there are two similar docking structures, left over from World War II’s Operation Overlord. I have a couple of photos on my Flickr photostream, if you are interested just search for ‘Lepe Dolphins’ – I don’t think I can add a link in my comment without it being regarded as spam.
Beautiful views again but a sad tale of the motorcyclist.
I had never heard of this type of dolphin before. I’ve learnt a lot during my epic walk!