370am Oban to Ganavan Bay

I’m really looking forward to today’s walk. After many miles of inland walking, it will make a nice change to be on the coast again. I leave The Beast in the caravan park and set off along the narrow lane towards the Sound of Kerrera.

01 Roseview caravan park to Kerrera ferry, Ruth walking the coast of Scotland

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369pm Kilmore to Oban

Although being forced to walk inland has been rather irritating, I’m grateful to be off the horrible A816, and glad to have discovered the beautiful Loch Nell. I prop my camera on a gate post and take a self-portrait.

20 self portrait, Loch Nell, Ruth Livingstone in hiking gear

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369am Kilninver to Kilmore

I get off the bus at the Kilninver bus stop, and try not to think about the walk ahead. There’s going to be a lot of road walking today.

01 bus stop at Kilninver, Ruth's coast walk around Scotland

It’s a miracle I managed to get here at all because, when I caught the bus from Oban, I had a ‘senior moment’. Continue reading

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368 Arduaine to Kilmelford (filling the gap)

Today is Sunday, and there are no buses running. And, today I must go back and fill in the gap – the section I missed out yesterday – between Arduaine and Kilmelford. Basically, it’s a 5 mile trudge along the A816.

01 A816 road to Oban, Ruth's coastal walk, Argyll

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367pm Kilmelford to Kilninver

The track I’m following is one of Scotland’s core paths. As I’ve discovered, core paths aren’t always well maintained and in some cases are completely unwalkable. But this is a good one.

Over a rise, and here’s a better view over Seil, and I even get a glimpse of Seil Sound.

51 view over Seil Sound, Ruth's walk around Scotland's coast

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367am Kilmelford to Kilninver

It’s Saturday, and there’s a limited bus service. I park in a village called Kilninver and catch the bus from there to Kilmelford. I’m the only passenger. The bus driver tells me how a section of this road (the busy A816) collapsed recently, and talks about the chaos it caused.

Kilmelford is not a large village, but it has a shop and a pub, and – most importantly – a bus stop.

01 bus stop at Kimelford, Ruth's coastal walk around Scotland

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366pm Ardfern to Arduane

I leave the pub and cross over the road to a café, where I order tea and cake.  By the time I set off for the rest of my walk, it’s the end of the school day, and the primary school is buzzing as parents arrive to collect their children.

26 Ardfern school, Ruth's coastal walk, Scotland

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366am Carnassarie Castle to Ardfern

I’m back at Carnassarie Castle, where I spent the night in the castle’s deserted car park, sleeping with my new and wonderful best friend – The Beast – a sprightly 16-year-old campervan. I plan an early start and brew myself a cup of morning tea, feeling remarkably perky…

Ruth drinking breakfast tea in the new Beast

… despite the fact I got very little sleep last night. Continue reading

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365pm Kilmartin to Carnassarie Castle

I’m walking along a wooded slope, surrounded by beautiful native trees, scented by a carpet of bluebells. Walking doesn’t get much better than this.

40 forest walk to Kilmartin, Ruth's coastal hike, Scotland

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365am Crinan to Kilmartin

I catch the bus to Cairnbaan – or as close to Cairnbaan as I can get – and walk the rest of the way along a beautiful lane, shaded by trees and lined by bluebells and buttercups.

01 lane near Crinan Canal, Ruth's coastal walk, Scotland

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