412 part 4 – Kylerhea Ferry

What’s so special about the Kylerhea Ferry? It’s the last manually-operated turntable ferry in Scotland. Now, I don’t know anything about this as I sit above the ferry terminal, eating my snacks, and watching the cars drive on.

First, there’s the turntable part of the ferry. The car deck is on a platform that can turn separate from the hull, so while the hull of the ferry lies parallel to the pier, the ferry deck can be angled to make it easy for vehicles to drive on or off.

Kylerhea ferry 1, Ruth Livingstone

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412 part 3 – Glenelg to Kylerhea Ferry

[This walk took place on the 6th July, 2019]

I try not to feel too angry about the pub being closed because of a wedding, and I continue to walk along the road through Glenelg, passing the village shop. A notice in the window catches my attention…

50 Glenelg shop, Ruth's coastal walk around Scotland

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412 part 2 – Sandaig to Glenelg

[This walk took place on the 6th July 2019]

After visiting Sandaig, I drive to the end of the Glenelg road, park my van, and unload my new companion. It’s a replacement for the horrible Monster bike. A new foldup bicycle –  called Scooty.

20 introducing Scooty, Ruth's new companion on her coastal walk

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412 part 1 – Sandaig

[This walk took place on 6th July 2019]

I’m back in Scotland, and this time I’m travelling in my lovely Beast. The Monster bike has been left behind, and I’ve brought a new companion with me… more on that later.

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411 Arnisdale to Upper Sandaig

[This walk was completed on the 19th June, 2019] 

After another rainy night, I wait until the morning downpour eases before I set off in the car. About half way along the road to Glenelg, I spot a convenient layby and decide to park here. I’ll do today’s walk in two stages.

Near to my parking spot, a track leads off the road and heads down towards the shore along a forestry track. “Sandaig” says the path sign. Hmm. Sandaig? The name seems familiar for some reason.

01 footpath sign, Ruth walking the Scottish coast from Arnisdale to Sandaig

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410 Corran to Arnisdale

[This walk took place on the 18th June, 2019]

Corran is a little hamlet on the banks of Loch Hourn, situated at the end of the road that runs down the coast of the Glenelg peninsula. The tracks among the cottages are unsurfaced and accessed by a narrow bridge, so visitors are encouraged to park just outside Corran, beside the visitor’s centre at the end of the public road.

01 car park for Corran, Arnisdale, Ruth's coastal walk around Scotland

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409 Glen Arnisdale to Corran

[This walk was completed on the 17th June, 2019]

Last night I drove round to Corran, on the shore of Loch Hourn, where I’m staying in a cottage. This morning, I wake to rain falling in sheets from a menacing sky. Luckily, I’ve brought a good book to read and I make myself cosy on the sofa. Around 3pm, the rain eases to a dull drizzle. Come on – I mustn’t waste the whole day.

Grab my umbrella, and head out.

It’s a wet slog up Glen Arnisdale to reach the bridge and the point where I stopped yesterday’s walk. The sign reminds me I must cross at my own risk and strictly without a horse.

01 bridge with cow warning, Ruth walking to Corran, Scotland

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408 Kinlochhourn to Glen Arnisdale

[This walk was completed on the 16th June, 2019]

Just up the road from my B&B at Lochhournhead, a track leads off to the left and crosses over the Lochourn River. A signpost tells me that Corran is only 9 miles away. It may only be 9 miles by foot, but it’s a good 70 miles if you have to drive round by road!

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407pm Barrisdale to Kinlochhourn

[This walk was completed on the 15th June, 2019]

I follow the path up the hill and away from Barrisdale. I’m sorry to leave this beautiful bay behind, with its pretty little islands and dramatic backdrop of mountains..

30 view of ruined building and Loch Hourn, Ruth walking the coast of Knoydart, Scotland

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407am Barrisdale

[This walk was started on the 15th June 2019]

I’m staying in a B&B in Kinlochhourn, which must be the most remote B&B on mainland Britain – reached after driving 7 miles out of Invergarry and then turning off along 20+ miles of a dead-end, single-track road. I was very pleased and relieved to find this place existed, and I’m booked in for 3 nights.

Kinlochhourn B and B.jpg

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