416 am Dornie to Kyle of Lochalsh

It’s another rainy morning. The weather forecast promises it will cheer up later. Difficult to believe at the moment, but the Met Office short-range forecast is rarely wrong. I make myself a late breakfast in The Beast.

01 rainy day breakfast in The Beast, Ruth's coastal walk around Scotland

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415 Shiel Bridge to Eilean Donan Castle

[This walk took place on the 10th July 2019]

Last night, I moved my Beast to a campsite further along the main road, and spent several hours this morning sitting in my van watching the rain lash down. Then I noticed the sky was lightening up and the rain had stopped. Come on! Time to get out and do some walking.

It’s a late start – nearly 11am by the time the bus drops me off at the junction at Shiel Bridge. By this time, the sky has darkened and – of course – it’s spitting rain again.

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414pm Totaig to Shiel Bridge

[This walk was completed on the 8th July 2019]

I leave my Scooty bike parked at the end of the road, and set off to walk the 6 or 7 miles back to Shiel Bridge. It’s been a frustrating morning, but this road is really lovely and a joy to walk along.

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414 am Totaig to Ardintoul

[This walk was completed on the 8th July 2019  ]

This morning is bright and sunny, and I’m very optimistic as I cycle from Shiel Bridge along the edge of Loch Duich. Today I plan to complete the walk I failed to complete yesterday. Yes, today I’m determined to find the elusive path from Ardintoul along the Lochalsh Trail, and I’m going to find it by walking through from Totaig.

At the end of the public road, I park Scooty behind a convenient tree. Here, a track leads onwards to Totaig.

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413b Ardintoul to Kylerhea Ferry

[This walk was completed on the 7th July 2019]

I turn my back on Ardintoul Point and follow the track around the edge of the bay. The track divides, and the branch running closest to the shore is cordoned off with red and white tape. I take this as the equivalent of a ‘no entry’ sign, and walk along the beach instead.

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413am Kylerhea to Ardintoul Point

[This walk took place on the 7th July 2019]

I spent last night in a camp site at Shiel Bridge. This morning, I face a 12 mile ride over the Ratagan pass on my Scooty bike, a steep climb which just gets steeper and steeper. Eventually the incline defeats me – even with full electrical assistance – and I must get off and push the bike up the final 1/2 mile. Continue reading

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412 part 4 – Kylerhea Ferry

What’s so special about the Kylerhea Ferry? It’s the last manually-operated turntable ferry in Scotland. Now, I don’t know anything about this as I sit above the ferry terminal, eating my snacks, and watching the cars drive on.

First, there’s the turntable part of the ferry. The car deck is on a platform that can turn separate from the hull, so while the hull of the ferry lies parallel to the pier, the ferry deck can be angled to make it easy for vehicles to drive on or off.

Kylerhea ferry 1, Ruth Livingstone

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412 part 3 – Glenelg to Kylerhea Ferry

[This walk took place on the 6th July, 2019]

I try not to feel too angry about the pub being closed because of a wedding, and I continue to walk along the road through Glenelg, passing the village shop. A notice in the window catches my attention…

50 Glenelg shop, Ruth's coastal walk around Scotland

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412 part 2 – Sandaig to Glenelg

[This walk took place on the 6th July 2019]

After visiting Sandaig, I drive to the end of the Glenelg road, park my van, and unload my new companion. It’s a replacement for the horrible Monster bike. A new foldup bicycle –  called Scooty.

20 introducing Scooty, Ruth's new companion on her coastal walk

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412 part 1 – Sandaig

[This walk took place on 6th July 2019]

I’m back in Scotland, and this time I’m travelling in my lovely Beast. The Monster bike has been left behind, and I’ve brought a new companion with me… more on that later.

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