[This walk was completed on the 13th July 2022]

I was planning to drive round to Culnacraig and finish the Postie’s walk today, by walking from there to the cairn where I ended my previous attempt. BUT… of course there was going to be a BUT… the weather is even worse today, with driving rain and a swirling wind.

So, here I am, back at the Drumrunie turn-off. I stow my bike behind a green shed, and snap a photo. That’s the road I will walk down today – a narrow, single-track road that threads its way along the side of a long valley.

It’s raining. I reach the comparative shelter of some trees, where the road crosses a river (the Allt Liath Doire) and risk pulling my camera out again. There is a lot of water tumbling down off these hills.

With nowhere to perch my camera, I simply turn it around and attempt a self-portrait, “selfie” style. To my surprise the technique works quite well – although it makes my face look huge.

Actually, that was my second attempt. My first attempt was not so successful – although it problably more accurately sums up my mood today!

Stow the camera away in my rucksack and carry on. Ten minutes later the rain eases off, and I pull my camera out again. Can’t resist taking a photo of those cloud-topped mountains.

The valley below is laced with small lochans. The high mountains on the other side are invisible in the clouds.

I pass a couple of cyclists sheltering under some trees. They look very wet. I’m already damp from my cycle ride earlier, but keen to keep moving. It may be mid-July, but it is pretty chilly today.

Half an hour later, the rain eases off. I take photos of the misty views, snap a shot of a squashed adder lying on the tarmac, and then the same cyclists pass me on the road. I catch a photo of their backs. They’re riding fold-up bikes with small wheels – similar to my Scooty bike, but without the electric assist.

Later, I realise the mountain I’ve caught in the photo above – the one with its head hidden in a cloud – is Stac Pollaidh (or Mount Doom). I’m going to walk around its lower skirts.

Starts raining again. Head down. Carry on.

Half an hour later, I walk past the only house that exists along this road – a place called Linneraineach on my map. Looks like it is undergoing major renovation and extension. A beautiful location (I imagine) but what an isolated place to live!

I’m walking above a loch called Loch Lurgainn. It’s boomerang shaped, and has an un-named island lying close to this shore. I think I can see sheep over there. How did they get there? Did someone ferry them over?

15 minutes later, and I reach the one-and-only official car park along this section of the road. Remarkably, it seems full. What are all these cars doing here and where are all the people? I’ve been walking along the road for 2 hours and not met another walker. Where is everyone? Another mystery.

[Later, looking at my OS map, I discover this car park gives access to walking routes around Stac Pollaidh. I don’t realise this at the time because I’m too close to the mountain now to actually see it!]

I walk through the little car park, hoping to find a bench. It’s 2pm and I’m hungry. Sadly, there is no bench and nowhere to sit. But I do discover a sign which helpfully tells me where the nearest public toilets are located.

None of those places are anywhere near. Not very helpful!

Onwards, along the road.

It’s raining on the other side of the loch, but remains dry over here. I’m sure the views would be beautiful… if only you could see them.

Round a corner, and next to a passing place, I spot an area of flat rock. Well, it is not ideal, but it does make a reasonable place to stop for my picnic lunch. I manage 5 mins… before the rain starts to fall again.

Around another corner, and I spot a couple of vans parked by the side of the road in a very unofficial parking place. There seems to be nothing about… so why are they here?

As I get nearer, the reason becomes clear. A couple of guys are hanging on ropes on the cliff face above me. Wow. I’m not sure if I admire rock-climbers or not – it’s a little like my attitude to motorcyclists. I can see the attraction, but I’m also instantly filled with anxiety.

(It’s now some years since I retired as a clinical doctor, but I still can’t help viewing everything with an eye to injury and seeing people as potential patients.)

The road descends to run close to the water. This is connected to the previous loch, but has a different name. Loch Bad A Ghaill. It looks very bleak today.

Five minutes later, and I spot a cattle grid ahead. This is good news because it means I’m nearing the end of my walk. Once the sight of a cattle grid used to fill me with anxiety about cattle – but in this part of Scotland they are more likely to act as barriers to deer, and as a way of keeping other livestock from wandering.

What livestock? Another sign tells me to watch out for something. Not cattle, thank goodness, but what on earth is this… an anteater?

Safely over the grid, I don’t spot any anteaters, but I do spot plenty of sheep. This one has a fine-looking lamb beside her, nearly a full-grown sheep now.

Traffic along the road is hotting up. A group of motorcyclists roar by.

And, a short while later, a bevy of cyclists cause a minor traffic jam.

Ah, there is my van. A relief – as always – to see it. It was difficult finding somewhere to park this morning, but it seemed reasonable to use the edge of this large passing space near to a piece of woodland which has been given a name on my map. It’s called Clach Mor.

I brew up a cup of tea in the van. A decent walk today, despite the rain. If the weather is beautiful tomorrow, I might have another go at walking the Postie’s Path… but even as I say this to myself, I realise it is unlikely.

After my tea, I must drive back to the Drumrunie turn-off, pick up my bike, and then carry on to Lochinver, where I have booked a couple of nights in a proper B&B – one that actually does provide breakfast! Yippee!

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Miles walked today = 8 miles

Total around coast = 4,813.5 miles

Route:

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