[This walk was completed on Monday, 29th May, 2023]

I cycle back to Noss Head, chain my bike up behind a fence made of Caithness paving slabs, and set off on today’s walk. Up the private road, towards the lighthouse. The lighthouse is another product of the Stevenson family – this one designed by Alan Stevenson.

Beside the entrance gates is a green post box. I do love these old post boxes, but I wonder why this one is painted green instead of red?

The notice on the post box explains, “This is not a public letterbox”, but was installed to save the Postie the trip up the road to the lighthouse and back. But it also says the Postie will always be welcome at the house for a cup of tea!

The car park was busy, but everybody is visiting Sinclair’s Castle, so I have the lighthouse road to myself. But, before I reach the tower, I cut off across the top of Noss Head, following the John o’Groats Trail markers (JOG Trail, for short).

I can see all the way down the coast to the town of Wick in the distance.

Although Wick looks relatively close, this section of the walk takes longer than I anticipate. Firstly, because I really am feeling very tired today and stop for frequent rests. And, secondly, because there are so many interesting views to photograph.

Ledges covered in birds – guillemots, I think – and the rocks are stained white with bird poo.

I have to keep making my way around obstructions, such as these narrow inlets with steep sides, a feature of the landscape called geos in Scotland.

Also, there are seals to watch – and to try to photograph. They tease me by waiting until I swing my camera up, then diving at the last minute. This is the best photograph I manage to take!

All in all, despite my inexplicable fatigue, its a lovely walk. I take a selfie using my Canon camera held at arm’s length – always hit and miss because I can’t see what I’m doing. But I’m pleased with this shot, despite the unflattering headgear!

Ledges, and cliffs, and caves. I really wasn’t expecting the northeast coast of Scotland to be so interesting and so beautiful.

Look at this rock pool. I wonder if there are pools deep enough to swim in? Would be warmer, and safer, than swimming in the sea.

More caves, and an obliging seagull manages to gatecrash this photograph, with good effect.

Rocks out to sea provide the pefect perch for colonies of seabirds. In southern England, a rock like this would be covered in cormorants, but I haven’t seen any up here. These must be guillemots, I think. (I really don’t know much about sea birds.)

I’m hoping, of course, to find some of the elusive puffins. But I don’t spot any.

Take a photograph looking back towards the north. There’s the lighthouse. I really haven’t got very far!

Onwards.

The path takes me between two wire fences, and I feel uncomfortably constrained. I guess it’s for safety reasons, but seems a little unnecessary.

As I approach the outskirts of Wick, the JOG trail heads away from the shore and takes me up a farm track.

I walk through the farmyard without seeing anybody. The yard is neat and clean (I think you can tell a lot about a farm by the state of the farmyard!) Over a fence-cum-stile at the other end, and I join a public road.

This area is called Staxigoe. I’m sure the name is based on a geo, but the spelling is different.

There is a sheltered little harbour in Staxigoe, where a group in bright outfits seem to be having a kayaking lesson. I sit on a bench for a rest, and watch them for a while.

A nearby information sign tells me that Staxigoe was once an important herring station – the largest in Europe. Hard to believe now.

From Staxigoe, I follow the road to a junction, and join the road I cycled along earlier. On the bike, of course, I headed up towards Noss Head. Now, I turn left towards Wick.

This painted bench in a garden makes me smile! A flowerpot lady with purple hair.

The next area I reach is called Papigoe. Again, I note how the “geo” has become “goe”. How strange.

I’m not enamoured by Papigoe. The road is being dug up, and the bus stop carries warning signs. “DO NOT FEED THE SEAGULLS” and, on the other side, a sign tells me pick up my dog poo. While, a nearby lampost displays a warning, “IT IS AN OFFENCE TO DRINK ALCOHOL…” with a possible £500 fine.

This gives the impression that the local population are sea-gull feeders, and irresponsible dog-owners, who regularly gather to drink alcohol in the bus shelter. (I’m sure this isn’t true!)

But then I reach a really beautiful place. A lovely wide bay. Broad Haven.

There’s a bench overlooking the water. Check my watch. It’s 2:15pm. What have I been doing all morning? Well, I may not be hungry, but it is definitely time for lunch.

I shrug off my rucksack, park my walking pole, and clean some of the bird poo off the seat with a spare tissue. The bench has been provided by the “Friends of the John o’Goats Trail”.

It has been an easy walk this morning, but I am feeling unusually tired, and I really do appreciate a comfortable place to sit. So, I am very grateful to the friends of the JOG Trail.

[To be continued…]

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Route walked so far:

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