[This walk was completed on Friday, 17th May, 2024]

I cycle back to the cemetery in Latheron. The old chapel is now the Clan Gunn heritage centre – but it is closed. Chain my bike behind a public toilet (also closed) and set off for my road-walk to Dunbeath.

Past the war memorial, and I am approaching the place where my road, the A99, joins the busier A9. I am hoping there will be pavements to walk along.

After some days of rural walking, it is strange to be walking on tarmac with houses on either side. This sign tickles me, “BEAR keep off the grass”. Instinctively, I look around for the bear… none to be seen, of course.

The road swings around in a curve, passing over the Burn of Latheron, which cuts a deep valley down to the sea. Further along, I pass a B&B with a wonderful name, Serendipity. I think this is one of the prettiest sounding words in the English language.

I can now look back towards the cemetery, and any desire I had to walk the coast path disappears. There are COWS in that field – and I would have had to walk through it to get back to the footpath. I really don’t like cows.

I’m walking, now, along the A9, and the road is somewhat busier, but luckily there is a footpath along most of this route – in fact most of the way to Dunbeath there is either a footpath or a wide grassy verge.

High above the coast now. In a layby, two large lumber lorries have stopped while their drivers have a break, or lunch, or maybe they are just admiring the view.

I’m still going uphill…

… but the views are worth it. Shame about the mist in the distance, as my photographs don’t do the view justice.

Just beyond Latheron, is the village of Latheronwheel. Funny name. Was there once an old waterwheel here? The road dives down into the village. It lies in a river valley formed where another burn – the Burn of Latheronwheel – cuts its way through to the sea.

I take a side road to the left (lined by houses for sale and old-people’s bungalows), heading for the harbour.

I don’t get all the way down to the sea, but stop on a handy bench because it is time for lunch, and time for a self-portrait.

My high-vis jacket glows in the sunshine. It is HOT today, but this time I’ve remembered to bring my sunblock cream.

There is a great view from my bench. There’s the harbour below me, and just look at the easy-looking green path leading up the other side of the valley…

… that must be where the John o’Groats’ trail runs. Looks easy. I wonder if I should try to follow it?

I spend some time dithering, but in the end I decide to stick to my original plan – which is to follow a Core Path up the valley back to the road.

Here is the beginning of the path, and what a lovely path it is. Meandering through the trees.

I cross the Burn of Latheronwheel via a little bridge, and stop to take some photographs. Beautiful.

This path runs for about 1/2 mile, taking me up the valley and back to the A9. And such a pretty path. Bluebells.

Dotted around are strange little houses carved from old tree stumps, and complete with tiny windows and doors. Fairy houses!

A family is walking behind me, and they start squealing with delight as they run about trying to spot all the tiny carvings. I take lots of photographs of the fairy houses to show my granddaughter when I get back to Manchester. She will love them.

The path climbs higher, and soon I can see the A9 ahead.

It’s a shame to be back on the road, although the views are magnificent. I look back over the river valley to Latheronwheel.

Part of me wishes I had been brave enough to follow the official John o’Groats Trail. But it is marked as amber in this section. “The tenth stage of the JOGT is a bit rough in places…” warns the official JOG Trail website.

A short time later, I come across a field of frisky bullocks. Another good reason to stick to the road!

The road climbs some more, before beginning a gradual descent into Dunbeath.

A road-side sign tells me there is a tea room and cafe ahead. I assume it will be closed (everything seems closed in Scotland in May) – but, to my surprise, it is open!

I can’t resist stopping. Rarely do I get a chance for refreshments in a cafe. I have a cold drink and look at the menu. Cullen skink! How delicious. But it is really too hot to be tempted by this wonderful soup today. I opt for waffles with bananas and icecream.

After gorging myself, I head off down the road and into Dunbeath.

“Birthplace of Neil M Gunn”, proclaims a very large sign. I have no idea who Neil Gunn is, but I’ve left my bike near the Clan Gunn heritage centre, so this must be Gunn territory.

A path is signposted off to the left. “Harbour” says the wooden sign. So, of course, that is the route I take.

The path turns into a lovely green lane, and I emerge on the coast road. Houses to my left, a quay with lobster pots (I think!) to my right. I head towards the harbour.

There is nothing much happening in the harbour. No boats to be seen. I wonder if it is actually used as a harbour? On a handy bench, I sit and admire the views for a while. Lovely.

Then, I head up the road to find my van, which is parked next to some public toilets under the A9 flyover. Not the most scenic area, but a safe place to park.

(I realise I began my walk by some public toilets, and am ending it by some more public toilets!)

What a fabulous day it has been. Road-walking can be rather tedious, but the traffic was light, the sun was shining, the views were great, and I even found a cafe that was open! Perfect.

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You can read more about the Clan Gunn Heritage Centre, and I later discover that Neil Gunn is a famous Scottish writer, although I’m ashamed to say I’ve never heard of him.

Miles walked today = a miserly 5 miles

Total distance around coast = 5,111.5 miles

Route:

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