[This walk was completed on Tuesday 21st May, 2024]

I’ve just finished taking my self-portrait, when a young male hiker appears along the path. I have to hastily remove the remnants of my picnic lunch – and my camera – because I am blocking his way! Take a photo of his disappearing back.

The path in this section is very narrow, sandwiched between the railway line and the pebbly beach, But it soon gives way to a wider section of meadow. Although the sky has clouded over since this morning, there is still a great feeling of light and space.

The sky out to sea has darkened considerably. Oh no, hope there won’t be any rain.

I come to a small burn (Midgarty Burn, on my map) where there is a fairly new-looking bridge in place. Well… not exactly ‘in place’. It has tumbled over to one side!

Perhaps the burn was swollen with winter storms and pushed the bridge over? Anyway, it is too dangerous to cross today, but I find a place lower down the beach where I can easily wade through the shallow water as it makes its way over the pebbles.

Further along, and I turn back to see where the rain clouds have gone. Looks like they are sweeping in low over Helmsdale. I wonder if rain is falling on the hills I walked across earlier? Oh, and look, there’s a train coming!

I run forward to where there are remnants of a stone wall, and climb on top. Can’t resist taking photographs of trains – and I am so close to this one. In fact, the driver gives me a cheery wave as he passes by!

After this excitement, I make steady progress along the path. Can I see more walkers on the horizon? Yes, I think I can.

The walkers seem to be taking their time navigating one short section of the path. Or, maybe they are donning their waterproofs – because when they pass me they are all kitted out for rain.

Oh dear. Perhaps I should get ready for the rain too. I always carry a waterproof cover in my rucksack, and I have waterproof over-trousers (although I hate wearing them). But, the sky looks fairly clear ahead, so I decide to carry on for the moment.

Some time later, I reach the spot where the other walkers seemed to be hesitating, and I realise the path here is very narrow – just a strip of earth between the railway fence and an embankment of nasty-looking rocks. In fact, this is one of the better sections shown in the photo below.

At times like this, I am aware of my vulnerability while walking alone. A fall here could be disasterous.

So, I am glad when the path broadens out again…. but not so glad when I see who is standing on the path. My nemesis. Cattle!

In fact, these beasts seem more scared of me than I am of them, because they turn tail and go charging off. But I drop down onto the pebbly beach to avoid walking through them.

The pebbles soon give way to a lovely stretch of sand.

Round the next low headland, and am faced with a glorious curve of bright sand. Beautiful. And not a soul in sight.

I perch on some driftwood for a rest and a drink, and a chance to relax and enjoy the view. “Fabulous beach,” I write on my map. Strangely, this beautiful bay doesn’t seem to have a name.

Onward. Along the sand.

The only little worry I have is… the cattle. The fields inland are full of them. They keep a wary eye on me, and I keep a wary eye on them. That fence doesn’t look very robust.

Safely past the cattle, I come to another burn. Culgower Burn, I think. Here, the railway line passes over the water via a bridge, but I can easily wade across the shallow water. I wonder if it gets deeper in the winter?

My wonderful beach is coming to an end. I turn around to take photographs looking back. Love the colours – the bright curve of the beach itself, the pale blue and greens of the sea, the vibrant gorse and dark firs on the hills, the white drifts of cloud over the peaks, and the dark mass of rain clouds beyond.

It’s like a beautiful painting. [Later, I set this photo as my desktop background!]

The pebbles on the beach give way to a mess of dark rocks, slippery with seaweed. I must turn inland at this point, and I make my up the grassy bank to a stone wall. A sign for the JOG Trail points the way over a stile…

…and then I’m walking through a caravan site. Some of the vehicles are statics, and a woman in the window of one gives me a friendly wave. Others are touring motorhomes. It looks a lovely place to camp.

I follow a track through the site, until I come to the access road. It passes under the railway bridge and there, on the other side of the bridge, is my van.

I was anxious when I left the van here earlier, as this is working farmland. But there seemed plenty of room for farm equipment to navigate, and everything turned out very well in the end.

In fact, it has been a fabulous walk today with wonderful views, a spectacular beach, and NO rain!

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Miles walked today = 6.5 miles

Total around coast = 5,134.5 miles

Route today (morning in black, afternoon in blue)

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