[This walk was completed on Friday, 9th May 2025]

A fit person would walk from the Cromarty ferry straight down to Rosemarkie, in one day. But, I am no longer a fit person, so I decided to divide the walk up into a number of stages. Each stage is determined by car-parking possibilities, and the first stage will need to be walked backwards!

So, this is how I end up cycling along a minor road to a junction with a track, where I leave my Scooty bike chained up. What a great view over the Cromarty peninsula.

Shrugging on my backpack, I head along the track, returning vaguely in the direction of Cromarty.

I reach a crossroads, where the track joins a proper road. This is Cromarty Mains. Here I turn right, heading towards the coast.

I pass a row of terrace houses, and walk to where the road comes to an end at a small development of newish bungalows. Here, a farm track continues beyond a gate but, just before I reach this point, a car overtakes me and parks at the end of the road. The occupants get out – two young men – and they begin sorting out walking equipment and bottles.

They seem oblivious to my presence, and start setting off just as I am walking past their car – one on either side of my shoulders, and so close they are almost treading on my heels. They are still sorting out their back packs and chatting to each other as if I don’t exist.

For a few moments, I am in a weird and uncomfortable situation. (I don’t think two women would walk this close to a lone male walker.) The only excuse I can think of is that they were too self-absorbed in the excitement of setting off on their walk, and they just didn’t notice me!

After passing through the gate, I hang back to let them get ahead. Then, I follow them up the track in an irritated frame of mind. A few hundred yards up the hill, I stop to turn back and take a photograph looking back to the little housing development, and Cromarty Firth in the distance.

Onwards, up the hill, through a field of sheep. The two men have slowed down now, and I have to slow down even more to let them get further ahead.

(I’m not sure why I found this encounter so irritating – perhaps the lack of respect for myself, perhaps their loud chatter – but it sours the start to the day.)

After cresting the top of the hill, I leave the farmland behind and follow a path down towards the sea. That is the Moray Firth ahead, with Aberdeenshire on the other side.

After a very pleasant walk through a strip of trees, I turn to the left, and follow a narrow path along the edge of a field of flowering rape. Below me, the land slopes steeply down to the sea.

This is a rather unpleasant section of the walk. I don’t like the smell of rape, and it irritates my hay fever. In addition, the path is so narrow that it is hard to keep your balance while avoiding brushing through the rape crop. My eyes begin streaming and my nose starts running like a tap. Oh dear!

Finally, the field comes to an end, and I can climb over a stile and leave the stinking rape behind me. Gorse instead. What a gorgeous smell and what a pleasant change for my nostrils.

The path is reasonably easy to follow. The ground is soft, the grass is cropped, and the views are magnificent. I begin to cheer up. THIS is more like it!

I pass through grassland with patches of gorse, and keep a wary eye out for cows (I don’t see any). Occasionally, the open field is broken up by small areas of woodland.

I come across an amazing oak tree. Probably blown over in some storm, the tree’s huge root ball lies exposed. Its trunk is now horizontal, but the tree has sent out vertical branches that have grown thick and solid, and reach towards the sky.

The best view of the tree is from the ‘wrong’ side, looking straight into the sun, so I apologise for the poor photograph, but just look at this incredible survivor.

Beyond here, through a kissing gate, and the path joins a track.

The track joins a road which would take me back to Cromarty Mains if I followed it. There is a large car parking area at the end of the road – and it is absolutely empty. I sit on a nearby bench and eat my packed lunch.

A couple of bins provide support for my camera, and I set up a self-portrait.

(Note to self: lose some weight, you look really podgy!)

This spot is marked as a “view point” on my OS map, and it really is a lovely place. There is the mouth of Cromarty Firth below me, and North Sutor across the water. The air is crystal clear, and I can even see the path I walked along yesterday.

Below me, a ship is making its way through the firth. I wait for it to move out from behind the trees and into the best position for a photograph, but the ship seems to take ages. What on earth is it doing?

I notice a mess of muddy water in its wake, so I wonder if the ship is dredging? There are some large ships inside Cromarty Firth, moored in the harbour near the industrial complex at Nigg. I guess it is important for the channel to be kept clear and deep.

I’m not following the road back to Cromarty Mains. Instead, I head off along a path that plunges down a steep slope towards the water…

… and then takes a sharp left turn to run along a wooded slope above the Firth. This is lovely. Smell of pine. Fresh breeze from the sea. Dappled light on the path.

Past a decaying pill box, I reach a muddy area around a tiny walled pool. ‘Fiddler’s Well’ says my map. I’ve come across a number of small wells on my walks in Scotland. Historically very important I’m sure, but none of these wells have looked at all inviting!

The path is still running high above the water, but is heading slowly downhill. I am passed by a jogger – a man running with his dog in tow – and greeted by a couple of older walkers coming towards me.

It really is a beautiful walk.

In places, little dried-up streams are crossed by narrow plank bridges. Somebody obviously takes care of this path and it is well-maintained.

I pass an inviting bench, and stop for a quick drink and snack. I’ve nearly reached the end of the woodland now, and there is Cromarty ahead.

Leaving the woodland behind, I join a concrete path along the foreshore. An information board tells me that I am now walking the Hugh Miller Cromarty Trail. (Hugh Miller was born in Cromarty and is a fascinating character – a stone mason who became a writer, a reporter and an expert in fossils.)

I pass the ruins of an abandoned village on my left, and continue the walk towards Cromarty. Red barriers mark where the foreshore has slipped, creating a path-diverson through an adjacent field.

The views over the water are fabulous. A glorious clear day. Sunlight bouncing off the bright gorse of North Sutor and reflected in the still blue waters of the firth. Sea gulls speckling the shore.

The final section of foreshore path passed close to the boundary wall of a property, with overhanging trees throwing the path into deep patches of shade.

On the other side, I join a road, and swing right at a junction to come down onto the shore.

I hadn’t noticed this beach earlier. The wind is chill, but the sunshine has brought people out onto the sand.

I drop down onto the beach and walk close to the waves. To my left is the squat little tower of Cromarty lighthouse in the typical Trinity House colours of white and a warm yellow/orange trim.

Somehow, I expected the lighthouse to be more impressive!

I reach the ferry slipway, and watch as the little ferry arrives and releases its cargo of two cars – an operation that involves reversing backwards down the little ramp and up the slipway. One of the drivers looks as nervous as I felt yesterday when I used this same ferry.

A large van drives on… will it fit? Yes, just. I wonder if there will be room for the three hopeful cyclists too?

Leaving the ferry behind, I follow the road along the coast to where my van is parked just 100m or so away.

Well, after a bad beginning – with those inconsiderate men, and the field of stinking rape – today has turned into a wonderful day of walking. Glorious sunshine and great views.

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You can read more about Hugh Miller on the National Trust site and download an information PDF with a map of the Hugh Miller Trail.

Miles walked today = 5 miles

Total distance around coast = 5,220.5 miles

Route:

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