[This walk was completed on Sunday 11th May 2025]

I’m staying in a beautiful campsite in Fortrose, right on the coast of the Black Isle. (Strange name for the area, as it is neither black nor an island!) And this morning I can enjoy a leisurely morning – no bed to put away, and no van to pack up – because this morning I’m going to catch a bus.

In fact, I’m so relaxed, that I nearly miss the bus and have to jog, with my backpack flapping on my shoulders, to the bus stop. This is the number 26 service to Cromarty and – yes – it even runs on a Sunday.

I’m not going as far as Cromarty, and I get off in a village called Rosemarkie. Today I am continuing my coastal walk, but backwards. To avoid the busy main road, I’m going to walk up a footpath that runs through “Fairy Glen”, in order to reach the road junction where I finished my walk yesterday.

Fairy Glen. Anyway, how could I resist this walk with a name like that!

I start off along the main road to where the bridge crosses over the river. Here I stop to watch walkers on a path below me. Do I need to be over there? It’s an uncomfortable place to stop because there are no decent pavements and the traffic is fast.

My map indicates that I start by following a minor road on this side of the bank. So I follow the quiet road a short distance, before finding a footpath that leads off to the left and down towards the river bank.

It is cool and green down here, but the footpath by the bank is covered in a mess of fallen trees and debris. Perhaps the result of waters swollen in a winter storm? I pick my way carefully over the fallen timber.

Beyond this obstruction, is a wooden footbridge. I presume this bridge, too, was damaged by flooding water, because I am greeted by a “closed” sign and plank has been nailed across the entrance as a barrier. Oh no! Must I turn back?

I watch as a couple climb over the barrier and make it safely to the other side.

So, ignoring the sign, I climb over the obstructing plank, and cross the bridge without a problem.

Now, I am walking upstream along the opposite back. This is the Fairy Glen. It really is beautiful, with fresh spring growth on the banks, and bluebells underneath the trees.

The path is well worn, and I meet several groups of people. A popular place. Then I reach another footbridge – this one is undamaged and open – and I cross over the little river again.

This section of the walk is the best part, although foliage and dim light makes photography difficult. I pass a series of waterfalls, this one emptying into a peaceful green pool.

I set up the timer on my camera and pose for a selfie.

After a scramble up a slope made slippery by spray, I reach final waterfall of Fairy Glen.

From here, you can climb steps up to the main road. They don’t want you to use these steps – “Return to car park” says the sign, pointing clearly back down the valley. “Busy road ahead” warns another sign.

Yes, but I have to return to where I ended my last walk. So, I climb up to reach the road. “Busy Road Ahead” warns another sign. Yes, I know.

I cross the road and stand at the T junction where I stood yesterday. The finger post points back down to Fairy Glen. “Rosemarkie 3/4 mile”.

So, turning around, I head back the way I came. Such a beautiful path.

In one of the pools below me, a family has gathered to have a picnic. Children are playing on the banks. Perhaps they have scared the fairies away, because I don’t see any.

I begin to resent the number of people on the path. Yes, it is a Sunday, and a lovely day, but what are all these people doing on my walk? (I’m so used to having the path all to myself, I forget that there are other people who enjoy walking too.)

Past more bluebells.

I don’t cross over at the blocked footbridge bridge, but continue downstream on this side of the river. Under the road bridge.

Eventually, I reach the outskirts of Rosemarkie and a car park. So this is where all the people come from?

The path continues. I’m now passing the back gardens of houses. Some people have built bridges over the water.

Ah, here are the fairies… no, just their houses! Quite a village. All shapes and sizes, and some of the properties are in various stages of decay.

It’s not uncommon to see fairy houses in these pretty places, and I’m not sure whether I like all this tweeness. I suppose it is a bit like having gnomes in your garden – you either love them or hate them. Anyway, the fairy houses weren’t constructed for me – and I’m sure children must enjoy seeing them.

I pass another car park…

… and then I reach the end of the path, where it opens onto a bright open space. There is a clump of scotch pines and – finally – the sea in front of me.

After the dimness of Fairy Glen, the light is quite dazzling. I stop to get my bearings, and realise there is a cafe ahead… and it is actually open! Time for lunch.

[To be continued…]

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Fairies seen = 0

Route so far:

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