I had been staying in a B&B, but last night I moved on to a campsite at a place just north of Ullapool, called Ardmair. This morning, I cycle back to the car park where I ended yesterday’s walk. Today, I’m walking into Ullapool itself, and then on to Ardmair.
I stayed in a bed-without-breakfast place last night. So, this morning, I drove to a parking spot just outside Ullapool, brewed up some coffee in my van, ate my muesli, then jumped on my Scooty ebike and cycled back to the car park at Lael Forest Garden. The ride seemed longer than I anticipated – I’m still walking “off the map” – but luckly my bike’s battery held out.
Back in the car park, I chain my bike to a sign post, and look at a plan showing the forest trails.
Different weather today. Still plenty of clouds, but they are lighter, don’t drop any rain, and there are patches of sunshine moving across the landscape. I cycle back to the layby where I ended my walk yesterday, leave my bike in a ditch, and set off.
Nearby, a track leads off into a different branch of this same valley. Two “core path” signs tell me I can go this way to get to Lochluichart 18 miles away (never heard of it) or Kinlochewe 15 miles away.
Today, I’m filled with a sense of urgency because I want to get to Ullapool before the end of this trip – and I discovered yesterday that Ullapool is much further away than I realised.
Its a dull sort of day, but at least it isn’t raining. I hide my bike in the bracken, and begin my plod along the A832
The landscape is obscured by mist and the air is filled with a constant, miserable drizzle, interspersed with heavier downfalls of rain. A real change from the glorious sunshine of yesterday.
This morning, I filled the van with diesel from the self-service pumps in Laide. As I was driving out of the forecourt, I noticed a woman standing with her thumb out. She was wearing a flimsy jacket over shorts, open-toe sandals on her feet, and carried a large backpack. She was thoroughly drenched and shivering with cold. She had been waiting for the bus to take her to Ullapool, but it wasn’t running any more.
I start from the spot I ended yesterday’s walk – a nondescript lay-by on a corner of the road, overlooking Gruinard Island, near a place called Mungasdale.
It’s a sunny morning, with virtually no wind. Gruinard Island looks lovely – a gently-rounded green hump of an island, treeless and enticingly tranquil, lying less than a mile away across the blue waters of Gruinard Bay. I wonder if anybody lives there?
I chain my e-bike behind a shed near the petrol station in Laide. Today, I’m walking eastwards along the A832. It’s a late start – nearly 2pm – before I get going.
The little road to Mellon Udrigle is “unsuitable for coaches”, which suits me fine. I’ve parked my van at the end of the road and cycled back to the junction at Laide. The weather forecast promises a mix of sunshine and showers, and I set off in good spirits.
I hide my Scooty bike between a green box and a stone wall, and set off walking onwards from Aultbea to Laide.
First, I must cross a river – the Allt Beithe. A new modern bridge exists, but the old stone bridge is much more photogenic and still available for pedestrians to use. I stop on the other side and take a photo, looking back towards the now-closed hotel.
Report number:1234 Date: 4/5/26 Location: On the side of the river Arun just past Arundel castle 2 people with dog Laura’s report: “We were walking on the footpath and the cows were quite a way to our right, to our left was the river. The cows started coming over, we went down towards the river […]
Report number:1233 Date: 3/5/26 Location: Aller, near Langport, Somerset Family group & dog Libby’s report: “We were chased and pinned against the rivers edge by a whole group of cows who were kicking and jumping. They edged closer and closer until we were left with no option but to jump into the river and swim […]
Report number: 1232 Date: 25/4/26 Location: Between Overton and Erbistock (Wrexham). Approx What3Words = riverside.period.curtail 2 people no dog Frances’s report: “We crossed a stile into the field and immediately noticed a herd of cows on the other side. They seemed to be minding their own business and facing the other direction so we continued […]