148b Lynmouth to Porlock Weir

The South West Coast Path splits into two and I take the lower route, staying among the trees and closer to where I know the sea must be, somewhere on my left. But inside the wood my horizon is limited by trees and ferns. No landmarks to guide me.

lunch beside a waterfall, Ruth on the SWCP, SomersetIt is still raining. Once there were dry patches under the trees, now everything is soaking. Puddles fill the hollows in the path. Water oozes out of the soil.

I feel totally alone. I’ve not seen a human being for 3 hours. Even my companion flies seem to have disappeared.

I come to a pretty waterfall, one of the many that brings streams flowing across the path. And I find an almost-dry branch, wedged between two rocks, a piece of debris carried down by the water during the 2013 winter storms, I imagine.

Somewhere to sit. At last. Continue reading

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148a Lynmouth to Porlock Weir

I stay the night in Porlock Weir. Hubby has gone home and I find it is surprisingly difficult to get from Porlock to Lynmouth by public transport. Only 3 buses a day cross this stretch of Exmoor.

It begins raining as I wait for the exceedingly-rare no. 300 bus. Exmoor is grey, watery and bleak. The bus makes only three stops on the way over the moors. But the sun is shining by the time we reach Lynmouth. Hoorah!

Lynmouth, Ruth on her coastal walk around the UK, Devon

I take plenty of photos. Lynmouth must be even prettier when the tide comes in. Continue reading

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147 Holdstone Hill, Lee Bay to Lynmouth

This morning I decide to accomplish yesterday’s mission. I will climb to the top of Holdstone Hill. At 349 metres, it is the highest point around. And so I ask my husband to drop me off at the car park giving the nearest access to the summit.

The path is well-worn. There is a cairn and a trig point at the top.

Holdstone Hill, Ruth walking north Devon

Continue reading

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146c Combe Martin to Holdstone Down

There is a concrete path running around the side of the bay at Combe Martin, and further along I can see a flight of steps leading upwards. I decide the steps must join the South West Coast Path, knowing it is somewhere on the slope above, and I set off.

On the way I pass a young boy who has been fishing in a rock pool. He has caught a large crab. He tells me it is only one of many – but the rest escaped.
steps to nowhere, Combe Martin, Ruth's coastal walkI climb the steep steps but find, to my surprise, Continue reading

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146b Ifracombe to Combe Martin

It is hot and sunny July day. I walk along the track leading out of Ilfracombe and find a shady park with views over towards Ilfracombe’s pier. I can’t resist taking a final photograph of Verity, standing pregnant and proud at the entrance to the harbour.

a01 Verity from across the water, Ruth on her coastal walk through IlfracombeHere an information plaque gives some information about the great sculpture and this is where I first learn that she was created by Damien Hirst. It explains she is “an allegory for truth and justice”, but doesn’t explain why she is partially dissected. Continue reading

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146a Ilfracombe

Back in Ilfracombe, I cross the small beach and begin heading up to Capstone Point. Looking back, I can see the way I walked yesterday – the tourist office set in the base of one of the strange kiln-like buildings and, beyond, the sunlit green slopes of Torrs Park.

Ilfracombe, view over tourist office from Caspstone Point, Ruth walking the coast

I am heading east today, into the rising sun. Continue reading

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145 Lee Bay to Ilfracombe

What is wrong with the British weather? It’s Easter Monday and the sun is shining! Lee Bay looks even better on a sunny day and with the tide high.

01 Lee Bay, Ruth on her coastal walk, north Devon

I plan a short hike this morning. My aim is to walk along the South West Coast Path from Lee to Ilfracombe, where I will meet up with my hubby and his mother, before we set off on our long drive home. Continue reading

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144 Woolacombe to Lee Bay

I set off along the road that runs from Woolacombe towards Mortehoe, and take a last look along the wonderful Woolacombe sands. It is a dull day, but people are already on the beach, determined to make the most of this Easter Sunday.

Woolacombe Sands, Ruth's coastal walk

I walk along the top of the cliffs. Continue reading

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143. Saunton to Woolacombe

The tide is in, covering much of Saunton Sands and the beach is relatively crowded compared to yesterday. I take a few photographs and then head up the slope.

01 Saunton Sands, Ruth's coast walking

The South West Coast Path runs above the road. And the road runs above the hotel. All I have to do is climb up to it. Continue reading

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142(b) Braunton Burrows and Saunton Sands

I look back along the route I’ve just walked, back up the sandy banks of the  River Taw, where a lone man is walking his dog. In the distance, around the bend of the river, is Barnstaple.

looking up estuary, River Taw, Horsey Island, Ruth's coast walk

And then I look ahead to the curving beach and decide to take a short cut across the flat, wet sand. This turns out to be a mistake. Continue reading

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