132 Tintagel

I decide on a short walk today. My confidence was battered by the difficult cliffs yesterday. In addition, my muscles are aching from the effects of steep climbs.

It rained heavily during the night and dark clouds still hang over the Gull Rock.  But it is dry when I set off from the rocky beach of Trebarwith Strand.

01 Trebarwith Strand, Ruth's coast walk

Trebarwith Strand is sometimes known as Port William. There is a steady climb from the shore to the top of the cliffs, but without the terrifying steepness of yesterday.

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131 Port Isaac to Trebarwith Strand

I set off from Port Isaac , along the cliff tops. The sun is shining and there is no rain forecast today, so I am in a happy and optimistic mood. Across the bay is the magical headland of Tintagel.

After the trials of yesterday, today’s walk is going to be easy-peasy, isn’t it?

towards Port Gaverne, Ruth walking the south west coast path, Cornwall

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130 Padstow to Port Isaac

The weather forecast warns of rain this afternoon, and so I only plan a short walk, hoping to get at least as far as Polzeath, or Port Quin if I am lucky. I carry 1 small water bottle and no food.

My husband drops me off at the point where the Padstow ferry arrives on the sand at Rock. I couldn’t take a photograph of the ferry-boat yesterday because of the rain, so I am pleased to pull my camera out today and take a snap.

ferry from Padstow to Rock, Ruth's coastal walk

I walk along the shore, heading up the estuary towards the sea. The River Camel is flowing briskly and the incoming waves are creating a minor tidal bore. Continue reading

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129 Trevone to Padstow

It is early September, the tide is out, and Trevone Beach is a bare expanse of sand. On my previous visit in August the incoming tide had forced the crowds to huddle at the apex of the beach. But today I can only see a handful of people strung out along the water’s edge.

Trevone Beach, Ruth on her coastal walk

I look westwards, across to the Merope Rocks and the lifeboat station. It is always satisfying to scan the route of my last walk and so I spend a few minutes tracing my path across those distant cliffs. Continue reading

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128 Porthcothan to Trevone

The bus from Newquay takes an hour and the route is tortuous with constant stops along the narrow lanes to negotiate rights-of-way with oncoming traffic. We pass by the tiny Newquay Airport. You might be lulled to sleep by the endless journey, and if you nod off you could easily miss the stop at Porthcothan.

Bus stop at Porthcothan, Ruth's coastal walk Continue reading

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127b Mawgan Porth to Porthcothan

Mawgan Porth, Ruth Livingstone, SWCPI am hungry and looking forward to lunch as I walk down into Mawgan Porth.

Despite the bad start to the morning, it has turned into a beautiful day. Perhaps it’s the weather, or perhaps it’s because it is a Sunday, but I have met an unusual number of walkers along this section of the South West Coast Path.

I find a pub and sit outside, overlooking the beach. Unfortunately the fish cakes are ‘off’, but the cook kindly makes me a children’s size portion of fish and chips. Plenty big enough for me! Continue reading

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127a Newquay to Mawgan Porth

I wake up to grey skies and drizzle. Having asked for an early breakfast (earning a disapproving grunt from the B&B landlord), I feel I must get up. My heart sinks. Another day of walking in the rain. I can barely face it.

But, by the time I’ve set off along the streets of Newquay, the sun is shining and my spirits lift. The weather forecast was right after all. It is going to be a glorious day.

Newquay, Ruth on her coastal walk, SWCP

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126 Newquay

One of the disadvantages of long distance walking is that you have to keep moving base. The BBC weather forecast warns me it will rain all day and so I have chosen today to move to a new B&B in Newquay.

Portreath Arms, Ruth on her coastal walk in CornwallAs soon as I leave the Portreath Arms, pulling my suitcase behind me, it starts to rain. Luckily the bus stop is very close by and it has a canopy. In the shelter I set about texting every member of my family, telling them I am moving and it is raining. (What did we do before the days of smart phones?)

For the rest of the day it pours with rain. The downpour is relentless Continue reading

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125 Perranporth to Newquay

I catch the bus from Portreath, arriving in Perranporth at 11:00 am. A late start which gives me 5 hours of walking time to cover the 10 miles to Newquay, and a spare 20 minutes in which to find the bus station.

Perranporth Beach looks lovely. The sands have been manicured, flattened and swept clean by some sort of machine. There are chairs, windbreaks, beach volley ball, sandcastles.

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124b St Agnes to Perranporth

The walk from St Agnes’ Head to Perranporth is spectacularly beautiful. As I set off along the cliffs, I could see the rocks below were pockmarked with caves. This is a wonderland for divers.

Caves, Newdowns Head, St Agnes, Ruth on her coastal walk around the UK

It is difficult to describe the drama of St Agnes. Continue reading

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