121 – St Ives (cont)

The first beach I come to in St Ives is called Porthmeor Beach. I stop and have a cup of tea and a cream scone in a café overlooking the beach. I opt for a booth out of the sun. It is 4:30 pm but still blazing hot.

Porthmeor Beach, Ruth walking the SWCP, Cornwall

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121 Gurnard’s Head to St Ives

The number 508 bus should take me back to the Gurnard Head Hotel. Unfortunately, Western Greyhound does not run a service on Sundays. (Why ever not?!) So I have an expensive taxi-ride from Penzance to Treen.

Too excited to look at my map properly, I head off along the nearest footpath, only to find I am nowhere near the sea and about to rejoin the main road. Wrong path! Never mind I take a photo of the hotel across the fields.

 Gurnards Head Hotel, Ruth coastal walk, Cornwall

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120 Botallack to Gurnard’s Head

I catch the number 10 bus from Penzance to Botallack. The driver corrects my pronunciation. It’s BOW-ta-lack, not Bo-TA-lack.

From the village I try to take a footpath towards the coast but soon end up lost in a field and have to double back, eventually finding the same boring gravel track I walked along yesterday.
 gravel track from Botallack, Ruth's coastal walk
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119 Land’s End to Botallack

People say that Land’s End is a disappointing place – dominated by a large hotel and shopping complex, and an even larger car park. Yes, I thought the Lizard was more attractive, both in ambience and scenery. But Land’s End is Land’s End and will always have a special significance for long-distance walkers.

I take a photograph of my husband standing in front of the hotel. Then he sets off on the long drive back to Lincolnshire and I start walking, on my own, heading for Botallack.
Lands End, Ruth's hubby, coastal walk Continue reading

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118 Lamorna to Porthcurno to Land’s End

Lamorna Cove is, I am sure, a beautiful place. But this morning it is shrouded in fog. I look back across the cove, trying to make out the route that I walked yesterday. The path winds treacherously above the shoreline. In the distance is the craggy mass of Carn-du.

Looking back to Carn-du, Lamorna Cove, Ruth's coastal walk Continue reading

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117 Perranuthnoe, Penzance to Lamorna Cove

I set off from Perranuthnoe in brilliant sunshine. My plan for today is to walk through Penzance and Mousehole and to finish my walk in Lamorna Cove. It is a long way. I’m using an Explorer OS Map – more detailed than my usual Landranger Map – and the distance seems huge. I’m nervous already.

Ruth setting off from Perranuthnoe, coastal walking, Cornwall Continue reading

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116 Porthleven to Praa Sands

The BBC weather forecast today is ‘wet’. The BBC rarely lets us down.

But it is still dry when I start walking along the side of Porthleven Harbour. I stop to take photographs and to allow a group of walkers go on ahead of me. There are around 10 of them and they seem to have an official leader. I rather hoped they would be heading the other way, but no, they were walking the same way as me. I prefer walking alone, so I hang back to get some distance between us.

Porthleven, Ruth's coastal walk, Cornwall Continue reading

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115 Predannack to Porthleven

The sky is grey. My husband drops me off in the small car park at Predannack and I walk through fields, past cattle, to pick up the South West Coast Path again.

Predannack and fields of cattle, Ruth on her coastal walk
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114 Lizard to Predannack Head

I rejoin the South West Coast Path next to The Housel Hotel, standing and taking photos from the exact same place as last time. The rock at the end of the promontory is called Bumble Rock. It looks like a cat to me.

Bumble Rock, Lizard - Ruth's coastal walk around the UK Continue reading

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113 Coverack to Cadgwith to Lizard

I wake up early to the noise of roaring traffic. What are all those cars going at this time in the morning? Then I realise – the sound I’m hearing is the crashing of waves beneath my window.

Getting to the start point of today’s walk is easy. I walk out of the Paris Hotel and I am on the South West Coast Path, heading southwards towards Chynhalis Point. The only place in Coverack closer to the sea is a house, ahead, perched by the water.

01 from Coverack to Chynhalls Point, Ruth's coastal walk, Cornwall

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