[This walk was completed on Friday, 12th May, 2023]
After walking around the shore of Lochan Dubh, I turn back for one last look at Ben Tongue (actually, NOT Ben Tongue, but Cnoc an Fhreiceadain, but I didn’t realise this at the time!). What a pretty view.
[This walk was completed on Friday, 12th May, 2023]
I start the day by driving to a place called Skerray, where I park my van, before cycling back to the campsite at Tongue. Chain up my bike in my camping spot, sling my rucksack on my back, and set off.
I wake up in the night to the sound of rain falling on the van, and it rains most of the morning – just drizzle – but a low mist surrounds the camp site and everything feels damp. No views to be seen.
This afternoon’s walk starts from the car park at the western end of the causeway over the Kyle of Tongue. Look at that view! Ben Loyal. Looking magnificent. Almost makes me want to climb mountains…
I’m back at Moine House, where I secure my Scooty bike behind the ruined building. It is a much brighter day today, and – despite the fact that the cycle ride was all uphill – I’m feeling refreshed and ready for a day’s walking.
Today is the first day of operation for the Cape Wrath ferry. Yesterday, I moved to a campsite in Tongue, so it’s a long drive back to Durness along single track roads to reach the ferry terminal. I’m there just before 10am and in good time for the first crossing of the season.
It’s a good job I’m early. There is already a little queue on the ferry slipway.
A jolly man joins us, and assures us the ferry really is running, and the minibus won’t leave without us. At first I think he must be the ferryman, but it turns out he is the minibus driver.
It’s the Coronation Bank Holiday Monday. I climb back up to yesterday’s parking spot and take a photograph over the bay. The fish farm is hidden below trees. Ahead, across the bay, is the long and winding road I will be following today.
I’ve hidden my bike just below the parking place, behind an old shed. While fixing the bike’s lock, I managed to cut my finger on – of all things – a sharp blade of long grass. So, yet again, I start the day bleeding!
It’s a Sunday and there are no buses running. So, with no bus to catch, I can enjoy a lie in and a leisurely breakfast. Then I drive off in the van and find somewhere to park on the other side of Loch Eriboll, before jumping on my Scooty bike and cycling back to the telephone box in Laid.
It’s midday by the time I reach the Laid phonebox (which is in working order – I usually check!). I wrestle Scooty into a safe spot behind a rock – where he decides to fall painfully on my leg before he submits to being chained up. (We have a love-hate relationship!)
Today is Saturday, and it is Coronation Day for Charles III. (Although, perhaps not wise to mention this to anyone in Scotland!) Apparently it is raining in London – but, in Durness, I wake up to brilliant light and sunshine at 6am. How wonderful. I can wear my sun hat! But I keep my fleece hat on too, because it is cold.
There is a regular bus service between Durness and Rhiconich. What a relief to leave my bike behind and catch a lift – in a comfortable minibus – because the weather has been blowing a hurricane, and cycling would have been tricky in the gale.
It takes me some time to explain to the driver where I want to be dropped off. “It’s just before a bridge called Drochaid Mhor, in the middle of nowhere, where there is a layby with a phone box.”
Report Number: 1315Date: 29/09/26Location: South Mundham at the bottom of Fisher Lane, West SussexGroup of black and white cattle, single walker with dog on lead Alice’s Report: “As I was walking on the path towards the exit of the field the cows were a fair distance from me. I have walked this route many times […]
Each report below details a moment when walkers proceeding along public footpaths were confronted by cattle. Each must be regarded as a near miss as any close encounter can cause awful injuries. Nicky dropped the lead when the bullocks charged and they ran after the dog allowing her to escape unharmed. Matt was chased by […]
Report: 1310 Date: 04/09/26 Location: Mount Pleasant, Upton Cheyney, Nr Bristol Cows with calves in the field Small group of walkers with dog on lead Rachel’s Report: “We walked past the cows ( around 30-50) on the footpath slowly, taking a wide birth around them. When we were about 10 metres past them they started […]