After my lazy day yesterday, I feel full of energy and am keen to make good progress along the coast from Tintagel. My first stop is Boscastle, for lunch.
Ahead is an easy amble along Smith’s Cliff. The promontory of Willapark is ahead with the two rocks, The Sisters, just visible on the other side.
I see no sign of ancient earthworks, just some fine-looking sheep with black wool and curly horns.
Looking back, the imposing Camelot Castle Hotel is still dominating the skyline. Beyond is the hump of Tintagel Head with Barra’s Nose in front. I can see the rock where I sat and ate my chocolate bar yesterday.
The next bay has an indented coastline. Bossiney Haven, Benoath Cove, Trewethet Gut, Trambley Cove – the names read like a foreign language. The low line of rocks in the water are the Saddle Rocks. The tallest rock is also an island, prosaically called “Long Island”.
But first there is a steep cleft in the coastline, where the Trevillit River has carved a mini-canyon through the rocks.
This is Rocky Valley, another piece of National Trust land, purchased with funds given in memory of a lady called Mary. [Sadly, I can’t find out anything about Mary on the NT website.]
I hadn’t checked my map properly and so this deep gorge is a surprise and an unexpected bonus.
Far below is the floor of the valley, where a stream falls in a series of waterfalls towards the sea.
This is obviously a popular spot. Despite the greyness of the day, several other groups of people are out walking.
The walk down is easier than the walk back up. On the way I stop and take photographs. This one captures two walkers resting with their dog on a ledge. Beyond is the tower of Long Island.
The climb down and up again takes me half an hour. Once on higher ground, I make good progress. Ahead is another rocky tower, Grower Rock. The far headland is Willapark with its white lookout station perched on top.
Coming round the cove I get a better view ahead.
In the distance, aross Bude Bay, is the hazy line of distant shore and the largish town I can just see must be Bude itself. In front is a long finger of headland ending in Cambeak. Just around the corner from Cambeak, hidden from view is Craklington Haven, where I hope to end my walk this afternoon.
But, turning my attention to nearer landmarks, I can see tall Grower Rock in front and the flatter Meachard Rock behind. Meachard Rock marks the entrance to Boscastle and lunch.
I walk onwards, past another medley of interestingly named coves and rocks and cliffs and common land. Foot Cove, the arch of Ladies Window, Grower Gut, Western Blackapit, Forrabury Stitches and Forrabury Common. Above looms Willapark and the Boscastle Lookout Station.
Coming down from the Lookout Station, I see the narrow entrance to Boscastle Harbour, guarded by Penally Point.
This section of walk, from the Lookout Station into Boscastle, is popular and I meet a few strollers.
Following the inlet round the corner and I get a lovely view of Boscastle. There are a fair number of tourists milling about and I would imagine this pretty place gets very crowded in the height of summer.
[I sent a similar photo of Boscastle to my artist in residence, Tim Baynes, and he sent me this beautiful painting to include on my blog. The original photo and a larger version of the painting is on this page.]
For some reason, the village is dominated by a Witchcraft Museum. I begin to wonder what type of magic happened here. Was this a female competitor to the wizard Merlin, based nearby in Tintagel?
[Later, I discover that Boscastle is not famous for witches. It is simply an un-protesting place in which to site a controversial attraction.]
Thinking of witches, I find my mother-in-law and my husband in a tea shop. We hadn’t planned to meet up for lunch, so this is happy coincidence.
I still have an allergic rash on my face. In fact, it is worse today than it was yesterday. My swollen skin covers up any wrinkles and I look as though I have had a Botox session.
My mother-in-law looks extraordinarily young for her age. It would be rude to disclose this exactly – but she is somewhere in the second half of her eighties.
Miles walked = 5
Total distance travelled = 1,303