216 Aberdyfi to Tywyn

Today is dull and dreary. The brilliant sunshine of the last 2 weeks has gone. I start my walk from the quay at Aberdyfi and wander around the dock for a while…

01 Aberdyfi, Ruth's coastal walk, Aberdovey, Wales

… before heading off along the beach. It’s a vast expanse of empty space, with only a few dog walkers for company.

Aberdyfi beach, Ruth hiking the coast in Wales

This beach is over 3 miles long. The walkers I met yesterday expressed mixed views. The older couple found it monotonous, but the young man I met later in the day told me how he slipped off his shoes and socks and relished walking with the feel of sand beneath his soles.

I contemplate taking off my shoes and socks. But the beach seems cold and unfriendly today, so I keep my footwear on. Still, it’s nice to have soft sand underfoot.

03 lonely sands, Ruth hiking towards Tywyn from Aberdovey

Around the convex curve of the shore, and Tywyn comes in sight. I walk for a mile or so without any sign of the distant buildings getting any larger. I’ve overtaken the dog walkers, and they have turned back. Now the only other figure is a man walking towards me.

04 lone jogger, Ruth walking along the beach from Aberdyfi to Tywyn, Wales

With few landmarks, your eyes can play tricks on you. The man gets rapidly nearer, which gives me the illusion of making rapid progress, until I realise he is running.

At one point I climb up the shingle bank at the top of the beach. Tywyn is still some way away.

05 Tywyn getting nearer, Ruth trekking the Welsh Coast

Onwards, and groynes appear. The wooden ones have been demolished by the sea, with only random skeletal stumps remaining. Nearer to Tywyn are a few larger rock constructions.

06 Groynes on way to Tywyn, Ruth walking the Wales Coast

I take to the path that runs along a bank above the shingle. The houses steadily grow larger. Walkers appear. It’s a shame this approach is marred by a sprawling park of green tin boxes on my right.

07 Ruth walking the footpath in Tywyn

I reach the esplanade. Maybe it’s the dull weather, but poor old Tywyn doesn’t seem to have much going for it. Compared to Aberdyfi, which is lined with pretty buildings, this place has an incongruous mix of modern blocks, very ordinary suburban houses, and only one solitary terrace of grander looking houses (seen in the photo below).

The ancient shelter on the promenade is desperately in need of some TLC.

08 Tywyn, Ruth hiking through Wales

I find an information board, where I share my negative thoughts on Tywyn with a couple of visitors from Arizona. Turns out they used to live here, years ago, and have returned to visit some old friends. But the place has changed and they’re lost.

There are two stations at Tywyn, according to the map. This causes me some confusion, before I realise that one is the proper train station and the other is a steam railway.

Before I turn inland, I look ahead along the promenade. That is where my next walk will start. I hope the weather is better.

09 next walk, Ruth looking ahead from Tywyn, Wales

When I reach the station, I discover there is a 90-minute wait until the next train, so I go in search of the bus instead.

During my hunt for the bus, I meet a man who saw me setting off from Aberdyfi and he congratulates me on having walked so far. I accept his compliments (I might even have blushed a little!). But,  in reality today was a very short walk. Only 5 miles. With another 1/2 mile spent trying to find transport back to Aberdyfi.

On my return journey, while riding in the bus, the sun comes out.

Miles walked today: 5.5 miles
Total along Wales Coast Path = 622 miles
Total distance around the coast: 2,229 miles


About Ruth Livingstone

Walker, writer, photographer, blogger, doctor, woman, etc.
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14 Responses to 216 Aberdyfi to Tywyn

  1. jcombe says:

    I went for a ride on that steam railway. It is a narrow gauge line and heads right up the valley, it’s a nice ride.

  2. Marie Keates says:

    Funny how dull weather makes everything look dull. I wonder if you’d have felt differently about Tywyn if the sun had been shining? What a pity you couldn’t take a ride on the steam train too.

  3. grahambenbow says:

    Is that it for the winter, or do you think you will be able to slip in a cheeky few miles during the darker months?

  4. Patsy says:

    Still beautiful even without the sunshine.

  5. Alan Palin says:

    Hi Ruth, just back from the Lleyn having taken all that “Abigail” had to throw at me. 3 separate “heads-up” from the section i did today Tudweiliog to Trefor.
    1) There is a coastal bus service running April to end October (so no good to me then!) operating on part of the Llleyn.

    2) As I was walking past a small little chaple and graveyard at Pistyll (nr Nefyn) I looked over a wall and was amazed to see this. I knew who he was straight away as I remember watching Maigret

    3) This section has a particularly nasty sting in the tail when you approach Yr Eifl, with losing 100m down to sea-level then up 340m (steep) to cross over the flanks of Yr Eifl.

    4) Cost of 30min bus ride from Trefor to Tudweiliog – £1.90

  6. Alan Palin says:

    PS just get rid of the IMG tags to see the photos

    • Thanks Alan – have edited out the IMG tags, and your photos have magically appeared.
      Glad to hear you survived the storm. I’ve been watching the forecast and the weather in north Wales has been terrible for weeks. I admire you for continuing with your walking.
      Yr Eifl – yikes – looks very challenging!

  7. Alan Palin says:

    Hi Ruth, well we have finally crossed over following my 16 mile jaunt yesterday from Fairbourne to Aberdyfi. You are certainly in for a treat on your next section particularly with the spectacular view from the top of the tarmac road prior to a steep descent into Fairbourne with the whole of the Lleyn peninsular on show.

    • Hi Alan, how wonderful to hear you’ve managed to do some walking, despite the weather. Also sorry we crossed over without actually meeting! Glad to hear of treats in store. You will love the next stretch – from Aberdyfi to Machynlleth and then down to Borth. Not much coastal walking, but beautiful scenery. Keep in touch 🙂

  8. Alan Palin says:

    Hi Ruth, hope to catch you up, further up the West Coast. I’m continuing down to Cardigan, then leap frogging to Amroth then continuing to Chepstow, then filling in the gap between Minehead to Chepstow. Then, continuing up the west coast.

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