I wake up to the sound of wind and rain, slamming into the window of my B&B bedroom. The BBC weather site says the rain should clear by 11 am. So, I linger over breakfast and take a scenic route up the coast to the village of Nefyn, where I park my car. It’s 10:30 and the rain has stopped. The BBC is always right!
Next comes a 2 mile road walk from Nefyn back to the golf course at Morfa.
It is windy again today. Not as bad as yesterday, but still very windy. I’m amazed to see so many golfers willing to brave the gale.
I follow the road along the side of the golf course…
… before crossing over a fairway to reach the rugged coast. Ahead is the ‘lighthouse’ I saw yesterday. But, as I get nearer, I realise it’s a lookout tower.
The wind is ferocious. I sit in the lee of the tower for a while and gather my energy. After my challenging walk yesterday I feel unusually tired. Then I begin to walk back along the eastern side of the isthmus, and take a photo of the waves breaking against the rocks.
Just around the point of the isthmus is the lifeboat station, sheltered from the worst of the waves by a protective jetty. The station is open and I go in and walk close to the lifeboat. Information signs tell me about the various wrecks and how many lives this lifeboat has saved. I put some money in the donation box.
From here onwards the path becomes a stony track running close to the waves. It’s only a short stretch but a wonderful scramble, and I enjoy it very much. Would it be passable at high tide? I’m not sure.
Round a corner, and I see a lovely bay with houses. This is surprising. As far as I know there is no road along the peninsula, only the private track through the golf course.
As I get nearer, I realise there is a private access road round the back of the buildings. And I see a pub. Yippee! It will be the first time for several days of walking that I’ve been able to stop for a proper pub lunch.
Several people had told me about this pub: the Ty Coch Inn. It’s only accessible by walking, which keeps the numbers down but, despite that, it seems a popular place. The food is basic but filling. There is a warm fire going, good service, and a friendly atmosphere.
After lunch, I set off walking along the beach towards Morfa Nefyn. It seems a popular walk, despite having to stumble over slippery stones in places.
There is another pub at the end of the beach road at Morfa. I tried to eat there yesterday, but it’s closed for renovations.
From Morfa I follow the coast path as it runs up over the top of the low cliffs that rim the beach. It may be possible to walk around by the shore, but it looks like it would take some scrambling to get around the rocky headland of Penrhyn Nefyn, so I stick to the official path.
Part of the coast path is closed due to landslips. Luckily there is a diversion route in place.
At the tip of Penrhyn Nefyn I meet a group of walkers. A large group. It’s the first organised walking party I’ve met this year. A sign that spring is finally coming?
Rounding the headland and there is a wonderful view along the beach of Porth Nefyn. Below is a little harbour, but with the tide out, the boats look odd just sitting on the sand.
The official coast path sticks to the high ground above the beach, and then heads inland to follow a course on the other side of the coast road. I stick to the beach, hoping I will be able to find a way off at the other end. (My map shows a footpath leading up to join the road, but there’s no guarantee the path will still exist!)
I don’t regret my decision to walk along the sand. After miles of rocks and mud yesterday, beachwalking makes a wonderful change. The mountains in the distance lend drama to the scene. Apart from a couple of dog walkers – mere specks in the distance – I’m totally alone.
Luckily the footpath near the end of the beach still exists. I climb up through a holiday camp, and join the coast road. The walk back to Nefyn is pleasant, although there is no footpath for most of the way and I’m nervous of the traffic. Luckily I don’t meet too many cars.
This was a circular walk and, after several days of battling against mud and wind, I deliberately chose to keep my mileage low and enjoy a relaxing day.
High Points: lunch at Ty Coch Inn, apparently one of the 3 best beach bars in the world!
Low Points: road walking with no pavements.
Miles walked today = 8 miles
Wales Coast Path so far = 772.5 miles
Total distance around the coast: 2,379.5 miles