230 Trefor to Llandwrog

I park near the bus stop in Trefor. One of Yr Eifl’s peaks looms above the village and from this vantage point it is obvious how quarrying has resculpted the landscape.

01 Yr Eifl above Trefor, Ruth's coastal walk, Wales

I find the bottom of the green lane that comes down from the hill, and resume my walk along the Wales Coast Path. The first thing I notice is a weird little bridge crossing over the road. And then I remember reading about a narrow-gauge railway that once carried quarried stones down to Trefor’s pier. Is this the remains of it?

old quarry railway, Trefor, Ruth walking the Wales Coast Path, Llyn

I walk under the bridge along the road, which soon narrows into a track, and then into a grassy path. Around a little gully between two low hills and, suddenly, I’m walking by the sea again.

03 path down to the sea, Trefor, Ruth Livingstone

The surface of the water is glassy and calm. Looking back towards the west I can just make out the low-lying coast of Nefyn, Morfa and the isthmus of Porth Dinllaen. I feel the usual tug of sadness, knowing I will soon leave those familiar landmarks behind. I also notice the ominous gathering of dark clouds. It’s already raining over there and the wind is blowing the clouds this way.

04 coast towards Nefyn, Ruth walking in Wales

I’m surprised to find this area of land belongs to the National Trust, as it is not marked as such on my map. Rather confusingly, it’s also called Morfa, which I later learn is the Welsh word for a moor, and also for a fen or a marsh – which all seems highly appropriate given that much of the landscape I’ve walked across seems to consist of boggy marshland.

Looking to the northeast, I can see across Caernarfon Bay to snow-capped mountains. Is that Mount Snowdon? I think it might be.

05 snow covered Snowdonia, Ruth hiking in Wales

Meanwhile, closer to the coast, one of the rocky islands is home to a group of seagulls and cormorants. I realise I haven’t seen many of those distinctive black birds in Wales, although I remember the south coast of England was covered in them.

06 gulls and comorants, Trwyn-y-Tal, Trefor, Ruth walking in Wales

Onwards, and Trefor’s dilapidated pier comes into sight. Behind are the peaks of Gyrn Ddu (meaning, I think, Great Black) and Gryn Goch (meaning, I think, Great Red).

07 Trefor Pier, Ruth walking along the Wales Coast path

Down near the pier I meet a local man who is walking his dog. He confirms that the bridge carried the narrow-gauge railway over the road. It was used to bring rocks down from the Yr Eifl quarries to the pier, where the stones were loaded onto ships.

While I throw sticks for the dog, the man tells me about the history of Trefor, and how it was once a bustling place, full of quarry workers. Sadly, as the quarries began to close the town faded away. He tells me the village store closed down a few weeks ago and the only remaining shop, the post office, is shut at the moment because the lady who runs it has gone away on holiday.

After this interesting, but depressing, conversation, my dog-walking friend continues on his way.

08 local man, Morfa, Trefor, Ruth hiking in Wales

I walk past the end of the pier (a jetty would be a better word for it) and around a rather half-hearted harbour area, where a few small boats are moored.

09 little harbour, Gwydir, Trefor, Ruth walking in the Llyn Peninsula

I’ve just completed a circuit around Trefor and now I walk back up the road and return to my car. Just in time. Dark clouds have been drifting over the peaks of Yr Eifl and rain is soon hammering down on my windscreen.

10 rain over Yr Eifl, Ruth hiking in Wales, Trefor

I was expecting this. The BBC forecast predicted an hour or so of rain around lunchtime. So I shelter in my car and eat my lunch. Suddenly my mobile phone rings. I answer it hesitantly, thinking it will be the normal nuisance call about PPI I’ve never taken out, or a recent non-existent car accident I haven’t had.

In fact it’s daughter number two calling from New York. She has just got engaged to her boyfriend. Great news!

After the storm has passed, I leave the car and resume my walk. Sadly, I know the next few miles will be road-walking: about eight miles in total. Sigh. I walk along the road out of Trefor, heading towards the hills of Gyrn Ddu and Gyrn Goch.

11 road out of Trefor, Ruth walking the coast, Wales

At the top of the road I meet the busy A499 and turn left towards Caernarfon.

12 road walking towards Caernarfon, Ruth on the Wales Coast Path

Sometimes I walk along a separate walk/cycle track. Sometimes I deviate off along minor roads. The first diversion is down to Terfyn which consists of a small collection of houses strung out along a lane. (The main coastal path sticks to the main road, but I can’t resist the detour – and it’s totally in keeping with my Rule Number Two)

13 minor road through Terfyn, Ruth walking the Wales Coast path

At times the sky gets stormy and at one point I get pelted by hail stones. In the distance, on one of the rare occasions when I can actually see the sea, I get a view of beaches ahead. And Anglesey.

14 A499 towards Caernarfon, Ruth on the Wales Coast Path

At a village called Clynnog-fawr I come across Beano’s Well. Beano? The comic? No. St Beuno’s well. He has several named after him, but this particular one was supposed to cure sick children of epilepsy and other illnesses.

15 Beuno's Well, near Caernarfon, Ruth in Clynnog-fawr

I peer inside. The water is shallow and reasonably clean, but covered with weeds. I wouldn’t like to be dipped in it myself.

16 inside Beuno's well, Clynnog-fawr, Ruth's coastal walk, North Wales

Onwards, following the road, and I get tantalising glimpses of the sea across acres of farmland. I do wonder if it is possible to follow the coastline along this section, maybe at low tide, if you don’t mind trespassing across fields, or scrambling over rocks and through boggy coastal areas. But I don’t try to find out.

17 on the A499, Wales Coast Path, Ruth's coastal trek

Road walking is boring and boring walking is tiring walking. It should be easy, but it never is.

I walk along short sections where lanes run parallel to the road, and alongside a high wall which marks the boundary of some grand estate.

18 cycle path, Ruth's coastal walk, A499 near Caernarfon

Back on the main A499 I’m surprised to come across a sign for Caernarfon Airport. Never heard of it. The official Wales Coast Path heads down this road.

19 sign to Caernarfon airport, Ruth walking the Wales Coastal Path

But this is the end of my walk for today. Just beyond the turnoff to the airport is a bus stop and I plan to catch the bus back to Trefor from here. I’m early – having made fast progress along the boring road – and there’s a 20 minute wait for the next bus.

It’s a shame they don’t provide a seat in the bus shelter. I could have done with resting my legs.

20 bus stop, A499 near Llandwrog, Ruth's coastal walk, Wales

The bus is only a few minutes late, and the journey back to my car is uneventful.

You can learn more about St Beuno’s well on the Mysterious Britain site

Miles walked today = 10 miles (8 miles along the road)
Wales Coast Path so far = 791.5 miles
Total distance around the coast: 2,398.5 miles


About Ruth Livingstone

Walker, writer, photographer, blogger, doctor, woman, etc.
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10 Responses to 230 Trefor to Llandwrog

  1. I too walked through miserable weather along that section. I turned left to Dinas Dinilie shown on your signpost photo. I had had a sandwich and Aero chocolate in the Londis at Clynnog Fawr, and tea made for me by the kindly shop ladies. I then re-grouped from the rain in the church attending to a potential blister, and then marched onwards in the rain.

    My journal sums up the atmosphere:

    Day 16 – Thursday 5th May 2011

    “At Dinas Dinllie, wet and bedraggled, I found a dismal café for tea and cake. A young girl was serving with strangely multicoloured hair, and there was one lonely couple sat at a table. Business was not brisk. Radio 1 was playing loudly.”

    • Road walking is always tedious, but particularly if the weather is bad. I sat on a wet bench on a village green somewhere along that endless road and had a snack lunch. The next day, with the sun shining, a cream tea at the ‘dismal’ café at Dinas Dinllie turned out to be rather pleasant. What a difference the sunshine makes!

  2. owdjockey says:

    Hi Ruth, mixed feeling about road walking. If the road is quiet and I have a view then I am happy. Walking alongside canal’s now that is boring.

    I did not think much of Beuno’s Well, it looked decididly “manky” and slimey! I should image you are now close to getting around Anglesey? The North Wales path from Bangor onwards is a breeze, flat and great transport links.

    BTW. finished filling the minehead – Chepstow gap. So over the next 10 days will probably leapfrog forward to Scotland and/or alternate with day trips up the North West coast.

    • Hi Allen. I don’t mind a bit of road walking, but this seemed to go on and on and on. Well done for filling the gap. You must let me know how you get on with Scotland. I’m feeling nervous about it already 😉

  3. I don’t think my husband has forgiven me for making him walk this section! Like you we started with a circuit of Trefor and walked to Caernarfon by which time it was getting dark! I had under estimated the distance! 20 miles! Congratulations on your daughter’s engagement BTW

    • Ha! You were brave to attempt to walk all the way, although you would have got the worst of the road walking over with in a single day. Does your husband still walk with you? 😀

  4. Marie Keates says:

    What a walk. Good job you had your car to shelter in and what great news about your daughter’s engagement!

  5. Mike Clubb says:

    Hi Ruth – enjoy your blogs. You probably know by now that it is possible to walk along the beach, and avoid the A499. I walked two days ago (04/10/17) Started at Dinas Dinlle, walked along the top of that, and then all the way along the beach to the river Llyfni. There was another river to cross first, but except at high tide it’s scattered along the beach. At the river Llynfi we went inland to reach the bridge (though I suspect we could have waded through at low tide) and then, after a 100yards on the A499 we walked back to the beach, and followed it round to Aberdesach. We might have been able to go further, but like you we followed a lovely lane to Clynnog Fawr.

    I’m annoyed that the Coast Path has not made a better effort here – ‘A ‘ road walking for miles is not my idea of fun !!


    • Hi Mike. Thank you for posting here. Now, I really wish I’d tried to walk along the beach, but assumed you couldn’t since the coast path clearly followed the road! Very helpful description for others to follow, and glad you had a lovely walk and avoided the trudge along the road 😄

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