245 Amlwch to City Dulas

I catch the bus back to Amlwch and walk through the town towards Amlwch Port. After a long drive from Lincolnshire I know it’s rather late to start walking – nearly 5pm. But the sun doesn’t set until 10pm and I reckon I have time for a 9-10 mile walk.

Amlwch Harbour, Ruth Livingstone on her coastal walk, Anglesey

At the end of the road that edges the harbour it takes me a few minutes before I find the familiar coast path signs. It’s good to be back on the trail again. The air is fresh after a day of heavy showers and I feel full of energy.

The path winds through rough heathland. In the distance is the lighthouse of Point Lynas (or Trwyn Eilian).

02 Ruth trekking towards Point Lynas, Anglesey

I come to a sign on a rock – FFYNNON EILIAN – its says. And adds, helpfully, ‘Site of the Holy Well’. At the base of the rock, by a cleft, is a small pool of water. For once it looks remarkably clean. I wonder if it’s clean enough to drink?

03 site of the holy well, Amlwch, Ruth Livingstone

Nearby someone has placed a small statue of a holy man, but I can’t get a good photograph of him because he is overhung with weeds.

I walk onwards, passing a few returning dog walkers, and I really enjoy this part of the walk. The air is calm and the sea smooth.

04 walking to Point Lynas, Trwyn Eilian, Ruth's coastal walk, Anglesey, Wales

Just before Point Lynas is a lovely bay – Porth Eilian – or I think this is what it’s called. Difficult to make out on my map because I seem to have smeared chocolate over the relevant letters!

05 Point Lynas, Ruth's coastal walk, Anglesey

It’s a popular spot, with a few cars parked on a nearby road, an elderly couple reading a newspaper on deck chairs, and a family having a picnic on the little beach. Unfortunately, at this moment it begins to rain. I stop and pull out my rucksack cover and don my waterproof jacket. The picnickers and the elderly couple begin to pack up and head for their cars.

As the drops splat around me, my good mood begins to fizzle out.

I think it is possible to walk right up to the lighthouse at the tip of Point Lynas, as the route appears to be a public right of way according to the map. But it’s not clearly marked as such and the rain dampens my enthusiasm for any unnecessary exploration. So I follow the signs for the official coast path, which turns off the road and cuts across the base of the peninsula.

The rain soon stops. The dampened fields start glowing with the ridiculously vivid colours of freshly watered grass, dotted with golden flowers. It’s beautiful. This is more like it.

06 walking through meadows, Isle of Anglesey coast path, Ruth Livingstone

The next section of the path is mainly field walking, with some wooded sections and walkways in muddy places to keep my feet dry. Very considerate.

07 board walk, Ruth hiking in Anglesey

It’s lovely and peaceful. After leaving Porth Eilian I meet nobody else for the rest of the walk…

08 walking towards Ynys Dulas, Ruth's coastal walk, Anglesey

… except for sheep. This mother and her two lambs are on the path. They don’t seem to want to move off it, but there isn’t room for all of us.

09 sheep on the path, Ruth hiking in Anglesey

Out to sea is a long, thin island with a tower. Ynys Dulas. (The tower was built in 1821, I find out later, to store food and supplies for shipwrecked seamen. Really?) Beyond the island are the mountains of Snowdonia, blue and hazy in the evening light.

10 Ynys Dulas, Ruth's coastal walk, East Anglesey

Further out to sea are large ships, gliding like ghosts in the vague misty area where the sky meets the sea. Are they heading for the port of Liverpool? I take a photograph using the maximum zoom available on my camera.

11 large ships, off Anglesey, Ruth Livingstone

Onwards. I mustn’t linger because the light seems to be fading more quickly than I expected. Luckily the path is relatively flat and the walking is easy.

12 fading light, Ruth hiking along the Isle of Anglesey Coastal Path

Then I come to a place where the path takes a right-angled turn away from the shore. What a pity. I look longingly across the farmland ahead and it seems perfectly possible to continue to walk along the coastline, if only the landowner would agree to let the path be routed across his land. What a shame.

13 Ruth Livingstone trekking on the Wales Coast Path

I consider doing a bit of trespassing, but, with the light fading, I don’t dare.

After crossing an enormous field of sheep, I reach a high stile. And take advantage of the steps to stop for a break. Supper time.

14 big stile, Ruth's coastal walk, Anglesey

I reach a track, which turns into a road. I follow a road for about a mile, during which time I meet nobody – not a car, not a tractor, not a walker. It’s like a ghost-land.

15 road walking, Isle of Anglesey coast path, Ruth hiking

Just off the road I see a church with a lovely elegant spire. I consider going to take a look at it, but check my watch and decide I better carry on with my walk.

16 past a church, Ruth trekking the coast in Anglesey

In a field are some cows with their calves. I’m on the safe side of the fence and decide to take a photo. The little calf is very curious and comes trotting, hesitantly, towards me.

17a cow, Ruth Livingstone

But his mother is not happy. She pushes him aside and comes to investigate.

17b cow not happy, Ruth Livingstone

She’s definitely not happy. In fact, she looks pretty angry. And suddenly she gives out a great bellow – not a gentle mooing noise, but a great whoosh of sound, like a fog horn.

17c definitely not happy, Ruth Livingstone

Grateful for the fence between us, I walk hastily away. I really, really don’t like cows. In this case I think the feeling is mutual.

The road comes to a dead-end at the shore of an inlet. Traeth Dulas, says my map. Now I follow the path along the edge of the water.

18 marsh walk, Traeth Dulas, Ruth on the Anglesey Coastal Path

It’s very marshy and muddy in places and I wonder what it would be like if the tide was high. Impassable, maybe. But there seems to be no alternate route for the coastal path to take, so a walker would just have to get their feet wet.

I stop and take a self-portrait in front of the muddy creek. Behind me there appears to be a roadway running parallel to the shore. There is a ‘ford’ marked on my map at this point. I wonder if any vehicles ever come this way?

19 Ruth on Traeth Dulas, walking the coast of Anglesey

As the ground becomes firmer, I stop and take a photograph looking back the way I’ve just come. From this angle, I can clearly see a roadway, although I wouldn’t like to drive my car along it.

20 ford at Traeth Dulas, Ruth Livingstone's coastal walk

The path joins a narrow road for a short distance, before cutting off through fields. I know I need to cross over the little river that feeds into the inlet and I was expecting to find another ford, so I’m surprised to come across a newly built footbridge.

21 bridge at City Dulas, Ruth's coastal walk, Anglesey

The next section of the walk follows drovers tracks and farm tracks and takes me over a hill and then down towards the main road where my car is parked in a lay by.

22 to main road, Ruth at Traeth Dulas, Anglesey

It’s 9pm; four hours since I set off on my walk and three hours since I last saw a fellow human being. Now, as always, it’s a shock to be back on a road with people and cars.

Miles walked today = 8.5 miles
Wales Coast Path so far = 954.5 miles
Total distance around the coast: 2,461.5 miles


About Ruth Livingstone

Walker, writer, photographer, blogger, doctor, woman, etc.
This entry was posted in 16 Anglesey and North Wales and tagged , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

11 Responses to 245 Amlwch to City Dulas

  1. owdjockey says:

    hi Ruth, full marks for getting out and doing abitof walking till dusk. It was boiling hot when I walked through here and so called in at The Pilot Boat inn, one pint of shandy and a pint of orange squash…excellent

  2. tonyhunt2016 says:

    Nice set of shots of the cows. Better than a video, somehow.

  3. It is possible to walk right up to Point Lynas lighthouse. The actual grounds are private but you can walk right round the outer wall and you get a great view from round the back – have a look here for some pics of it –
    There’s also a shot of my two little dogs on the same path across the fields that you were on

  4. Hi Eunice and thank you for the link to the photos. (sorry, I’ve been unable to leave a comment on your blog again) Interesting. I wonder what the lighthouse is use for now? Private house? Holiday lets? It’s an attractive place.

  5. Marie Keates says:

    Well done for your evening walk. I love the fact that there’s chocolate smeared on your map. That cow looked pretty scary but the files glowing in the evening light was wonderful.

  6. Rosina Carpenter says:

    We did this walk the other way round, lovely sunny mid November, we also never saw a soul for most of the 8.5 mile walk, had a nice pint in the local who looked after us and our springer Fflam with a lovely bowl of water.

    • Glad you enjoyed the walk, Rosina. I’m always amazed by how few people you meet on some walks, while other stretches can be quite crowded. Love springer spaniels, and Fflam is a great name.

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