[This walk was completed on the 30th August 2022]
The road makes a sharp, almost right-angled bend, around the tip of a marshy estuary where the Oldany River empties into a sea loch. When I cycled past this morning, the tide was high and the estuary looked delightful. It’s still very prettty. I stop to take photographs.
On the next stretch of road, I’m overtaken by two cyclists. I’m used to groups of lycra-clad men zooming past on racing bikes, or couples struggling past on heavily-laden touring bikes, but these cyclists are different – two young women and no baggage or lycra in sight.
It’s hard going up the next hill. One makes it to the top, but her companion stops and walks. A couple of sheep stand on the bend and give her superior looks.
She reaches the top of the hill before I get there, and gets back on her bike. I lose sight of them round the next corner.
Wow! What a view! This mountain range has been a distant companion for some time, but now it towers up above the waters of a loch. Very impressive. I feel that familiar sense of my own insignificance when faced with something awe-inspiring in the landscape – I’m as insignificant as an ant.
The loch in front of me is a quiet corner of a larger loch – Loch Drumbeg. Beautiful.
Here is an enticing Core Path – unfortunately going the wrong way, heading inland. Culkein Drumbeg Peat Road. So, I guess this is the route local people took in order to harvest peat for their winter fuel.
And here is the road turn-off to Culkein Drumbeg. Looking at my map, the place seems to consist of a collection of houses and ends in a jetty on the shore. I consider going to explore, but am keen to get on to Drumbeg and decide to stick to the main road.
I nearly miss this quiet figure, sitting on the rocks beside the loch. He is fishing.
Nearby, in lay by, is a camper van with the word “Freedom” painted above the windscreen. I guess the fisherman is the owner of the van. I wonder if he has retired, or just on holiday. Next to his van, a couple of sheep are enjoying the shade.
The temperature is nearly 18 degrees Centigrade. I guess this is a mini heat-wave in Scotland!
Onwards. And at this point in my walk the road seems never-ending. It’s now slowly making its way around the shore of Loch Drumbeg. That must be Drumbeg village on the other side.
You could be in Switzerland. The scenery is stunning. There’s that impressive mountain range again.
Finally! Here is the beginning of Drumbeg, marked by a gate, a cattle grid, and an extensive selection of signs – B&Bs, coffee shops, etc.
Still quite a long stretch of road to cover before I get there. And it’s uphill.
I’m feeling suprisingly tired, despite today’s walk being quite short. When I first started walking the coast I would aim to cover 12-15 miles a day, and anything less than 10 miles seemed like a stroll. Maybe I’m older, or maybe it’s having to cycle too, but I find 10 miles a little daunting these days. I’m such a wimp.
As I climb the last hill, I get a great view down Loch Drumbeg and… oh, look… it’s the two young lady cyclists. They’re having a picnic beside the water.
There’s someting very charming and innocent about the pair of them. Just enjoying the day – and not worrying about mileage, I assume. Hope the midges leave them alone. And the ticks.
Nearly at the top of the hill, where there is a fabulous viewpoint with a car park – and my van. Onward.
And I finally get there. What a gorgeous view. I brew myself a cup of tea in the van, and take masses of photographs. Look at my map to get my bearings. That’s Eddrachillis Bay and over there, somewhere, is Scourie. Beyond Scourie is the north west corner of mainland Britain, and Cape Wrath.
Cape Wrath! Can’t believe I’m nearly there. Feel I can almost reach out and touch it. But first, I must drive back along the treacherous Wee Mad Road and pick up my bicycle, then back to the campsite for another night.
While I’m taking photographs, the two young women cyclists pull up in the car park. “We haven’t got as far as we planned,” one says to the other. “No, that’s OK,” says the other one. “Shall we turn back now?” The both agree they’ve had enough. I know the feeling.
Miles walked today = 7 miles
Total around coast = 4,847 miles
Route (earlier in black, this post in red)
Ruth's Coastal Walk (UK) 
Some gorgeous views on this section Ruth, if I have a favourite it’s got to be the view across the loch towards Drumbeg village, it’s stunning 🙂
It’s gorgeous, isn’t it. Scotland keeps surprising me!
So pleased the sun shone for you. The scenery looks stunning. So impressed by how far you’ve made it around Scotland. Making great progress and more beautiful scenery to follow, I’m sure. Good luck with your walking this year
Thank you Rita. I’m confident I will get to Cape Wrath this summer, turn the corner, and be marching along the north coast soon.
Hi Ruth – remember the old Aesop fable “Ruth and the Hare” so don’t worry about the big Miles it’s your walk and what an adventure it is. Best as always – Russ
Hi Russ. Yes, you’re right. And it is a wonderful adventure, so I must savour every day of it.
Hello Ruth, I love reading your walking log and the beautiful pictures. Your comment about feeling insignificant when faced with something awe-inspiring in the landscape and feeling like an ant has reminded me of these powerful words from Psalm 8 (King James Version) which echo your feelings:
“When I consider thy heavens, the work of thy fingers, the moon and the stars which thou hast ordained, what is man that thou art mindful of him?”
But the psalmist goes on to say “Thou hast made him (mankind) a little lower than the angels and hast crowned him with glory and honour. Thou madest him to have dominion over the works of thy hands; thou hast put all things under his feet: all sheep and oxen, yea and the beasts of the field; the fowl of the air and the fish of the sea and whatsoever passeth through the paths of the seas. O Lord our Lord, how excellent is thy name in all the earth!”
I love the resonance of the language of the King James Bible but some may prefer a more modern version – see http://www.biblegateway.com
Hi David. I’m not a believer, but there is something very spiritual about these awe-inspiring landscapes. I feel insignificant, true, but also part of something much bigger. Great language in that quote.
Hello Ruth,
Yes, I think we do all have a spiritual side to us that can be evoked by beautiful scenery or for example by music. Thinking of you feeling as insignificant as an ant has brought to mind another of Aesop’s Fables in addition to the one mentioned by Russell White and that is the Ant and the Grasshopper (or cicada). While the grasshopper spends the Summer singing the ant is slaving away building up stores for the winter but refuses to help when the grasshopper asks for food. I know this fable best from La Fontaine’s splendid version, “La Cigale et la Fourmi.” When the ant asks the grasshopper what she was doing all Summer, her reply that she was singing prompts the ant’s damning riposte: “Vous chantiez? Eh bien! Dansez maintenant! ”
The Bible also has words to say about the ant in the Book of Proverbs: “Go to the ant thou sluggard; consider her ways and be wise. She has no commander, overseer or ruler, yet she stores provisions in the Summer and gathers her food in the harvest” (Prov 6 6-8).
And this: “Four things on earth are small, yet they are extremely wise: ants are creatures of little strength, yet they store up their food in the Summer ” (Prov 30 24-25).
Ants may not be able to admire the Scottish mountains but perhaps are not so insignificant after all!!
Best wishes.
Don’t worry about the shortened walks, Ruth, just get on with it while you can. At the beginning of ‘Turn Left at Bognor Pier’ we thought nothing of a 15 mile yomp. 23 years later we had to give up because I could not manage more than about 3 or 4 miles of the coastal path. Since then my husband and walking companion, Colin, has been diagnosed with Alzheimer’s and heart failure. He sits in a chair all day staring into space and cannot shuffle more than a few yards without stopping for a rest. So DO IT WHILE YOU CAN!
You are on a stunning bit of coast, I remember Drumbeg well. Mind the midges and keep going. Enjoy!
Hi Rosemary, so sorry to hear of your husband’s problems and what a shame your coastal adventures were curtailed. You are right. We never know what’s round the corner in life and that’s probably why I feel such an urgent need to make progress! Thank you for your encouragement.
This area is so very beautiful and I have enjoyed your blog and photos very much, your doing a grand job, thank you.
Thank you Gordon, for your kind words and your encouragement.
I’m laughing at the Secret Tea Garden – with a big advert on the gate!
Yes! I was amazed by all the adverts on the gate – got the feeling it was a busy place, but didn’t seem it when I walked through. Perhaps everything was “secret”. 🙂
More glorious locations and wonderful photos.