[This walk was completed on the 10th May, 2023]
This afternoon’s walk starts from the car park at the western end of the causeway over the Kyle of Tongue. Look at that view! Ben Loyal. Looking magnificent. Almost makes me want to climb mountains…
… just kidding!
Having spent much of the past couple of days walking along an inland road, I want to do some proper coast walking. So, this afternoon, I’ve decided to take a diversion along the coast to a place called Talmine. Apparently there are shops there!
On my left, down the hill from the road, is a graveyard. Old tombs of faded stone, and some more recent additions in stumpy black granite.
Past the cemetery, the road runs closer to the shore of the Kyle of Tongue. This is lovely. Gorse in flower – smells delicious.
Hello cows! Of all the breeds of cattle, Highland cattle seem to be the most docile. Despite their ferocious-looking horns, they are quite small and placid. This field has some lovely looking calves. – and a bull (who bizarrely seems to have no horns).
A bull! Well, I’m glad there is a fence separating us.
The first place I reach is called Midtown, but all I can see is just a row of houses along the road. Not really a village at all.
I was half-hoping to strike off across the fields and walk along the shore. But this section of the hillside is dissected by long fences that seem to run right down to the sea. Every hundred feet or so I would have to climb over a barricade.
So I stick to the road.
Here’s a handy bench. And what a beautiful view over the Kyle of Tongue. Tomorrow, I will be walking along that far shore.
This little hamlet is called Skinnet. It consists of another row of houses along the road, and no sign of a shop, yet.
The road twists around, roughly following the contours of the coast. Ahead is another huge metropolis – Talmine I presume.
Actually, this is a delightful walk. The sun is shining, people are mowing lawns and sitting in their gardens looking at the view. Lambs are playing in the fields. The grass is green, the sea is blue, and there are some lovely looking beaches down there.
This photo is taken overlooking a low-lying headland called Ard Skinnid, according to my map. The islands beyond are called Rabbit Islands, and appear to be reachable by a sand bank when the tide is out.
I pass the turnoff to the Craggan Hotel. Yes, it really is closed. I wonder what the story is behind the closure? Was Covid and lockdown the final straw? It’s disheartening to see how many hospitality places seem to be non-functioning in this part of Scotland.
A footpath leads down to the Ard and Skinnet Beach. Tempting, but I’m feeling very tired (again) and decide to stick to my plan.
My plan? I was planning to take an inland route along a track that is marked on my map, and join this road again at it’s far end. Then, I would walk back along the road, via the coast, to this spot.
It’s a 5 mile circular trip, as far as I can work out. Ah, here is a shop – two in fact! There is my van ahead where I parked it earlier. (It was hard to find a parking spot along this road.) Oh dear. Look at those dark clouds… I think it’s about to rain.
I walk further down the road, looking for the beginning of the track. Unfortunately, as soon as I spot it, rain drops begin falling around me. I stow my camera away, and stop to think.
Option (1) walk 5 miles in the rain along a diversion that takes me no further along the coast in the direction I want to go. Option (2) nip back to my van for a rest and a cup of tea, and then back to the campsite.
Reader, guess which I chose?
Miles walked today = 7.5 miles (and 7.5 miles of cycling too!)
Total around coast = 4,962.5 miles
Route: Morning in black, afternoon in red, abandoned circular diversion in green (just in case anybody else wants to try it!)
Ruth's Coastal Walk (UK) 
Walk on, walk on with hope in your heart and you’ll never walk alone again . Just trying to give some encouragement 😀.
Thank you! Now that song is playing in my head.
I had two friends who retired to Talmine when they left Durness, where I had known them. They both died a short while before I walked the coast here. As they were ardent church goers (I am not) I decided to visit the church in Talmine to pay my respects when I was passing. It coincided with Sunday service. Rather sadly I was only the second member of the congregation. That came as something of a surprise to me. In such a remote part of the Highlands I would have thought the community might gather around the church. Clearly not these days. No wonder so many of the local churches are being turned into houses. Even though not religious myself, I found it all rather sad and depressing. Scotland used to be very religious and Highlanders used to walk miles to get to Sunday service. Clearly that way of life has now ended.
Option 2 – definitely a no-brainer 🙂 More lovely views, especially the one from the bench.
I’d have gone for option two as well. I’m intrigued by the promise of German bread on the notice about the shops. It seems very specific!
Allways happy with your newsletter Love to read all about your walking adventures Thanks a lot !😊With love from Karin from The Hague ( The Netherlands)
We have Highland cattle on Arnside Knott just ten or fifteen minutes walk from my home. They are as benign as you say and on many other occasions all over the country I have noticed the same. Oh! That Ben Loyal massif looks so enticing; an area I have not. visited close up. That is the penalty for concentrating on Munros. As this post was back in May I guess by the end of the summer you may well be near that right turn then downhill all the way?
Just 37.5 miles to go to reach that magic 5000, so 4 or 5 days walking, on your way to John O’Groats! I’m sure you made it, and further …
Glad you explored that dead-end. It was certainly worth it and I’m sure you made it to the end later / the next day.
“Reader, guess which I chose?”
I reckon you pulled on a hat and skipped happily up that road in the pouring rain, singing songs to yourself….. just like I would 😉. Am I right?
Lovely pictures, and sunshine!… I can’t believe that’s Scotland. Those highland cattle calves are very cute. My new house backs onto a field full of cows, and some of them look a bit like highland ones, but not quite so shaggy. With very cute shy calves though.
I like Highland cattle and I do think they are usually gentle animals though I still treat them with respect and caution! I would have taken option 2 as well.
I think the parking space has been very carefully chosen to blend in with your van!