[This walk was completed on the 25th May 2023]
I cycle to Gills, pushing against the strong wind. I’ve taken to swearing quite a lot as I cycle – mainly at the weather, usually at the wind, and sometimes at the bike. When I reach Gills, I chain the bike up behind the information plaque…
…and set off walking towards John o’Groats. I’m following the road all the way. Stop to take a few photographs looking down along a little burn towards Gill Bay.
Luckily the wind is behind me now, pushing me along. I pass an old chapel (Canisbay Kirk) where, apparently, the Queen Mother used to come to worship.
Past fields of cows and calves. Island of Stroma in the distance.
A large MEYGEN sign sits beside a locked access road. Must be something to do with power generation, I think, but there is no evidence of any wind turbines either on land or out to sea. In smaller writing I read, “The tide of change in Caithness”. Ah… maybe tidal energy?
[Later, I look up Meygen – or MeyGen – and discover they are indeed generating energy from the tides: https://saerenewables.com/tidal-stream/]
A sharp curve in the road at a place called Huna. I’m close to the sea, but still stuck on the road.
This neglected looking cottage has a sign: “Huna Mission Hall. Erected 1932”. But there is nothing about who erected the mission hall or why.
A couple of touring cyclists come towards me, battling against the wind, with jackets filled out like sails. I snap a photo of their backs as they struggle past. Everything about them looks clean and new. I wonder if they’ve just started an epic John o’Groats to Lands End cycle ride, or if their ambitions are a bit more modest?
This section of road is long and straight…
…and the only interesting thing I pass is an old water mill. Maybe converted into residences now?
Something colourful catches my eye over the fields, and I take a photo with my zoom lens. Hmm. Is that John o’Groats?
The B836 comes to an abrupt end at a T-junction. I’m a little sad to leave this road, because it has been my constant companion (more or less) since Tongue nearly two weeks ago.
There is a hotel at the the junction, with a sign in the window for the “Lands End – John o’Groats association.” Well, I guess that doesn’t apply to me…
…oh, hang on, it really does. I have actually walked from Land’s End to John o’Groats, probably by the most circuitous route possible!
I turn left and head towards the sea, and John o’Groats. I walk past a distillery and am overtaken by a coach. Nearly there.
Of course, there is a huge car park at John o’Groats. The parking, surprisingly, is free, but they suggest you might like to leave a donation. I would slip some change into the box, but I’m not acutally parking here!
Now, I fully expected to hate John o’Groats. (I hated Lands End, which turned out to be basically one large and very expensive shopping mall.) But, John o’Groats has its own charm. A collection of individual craft shops, some nice cafes, its own little harbour, and a board through which you can stick your head and have your photo taken as a viking!
You can’t actually buy a pint of milk or a loaf of bread, but you can buy some very nice shortbread and local preserves, biscuits, clothes etc. I can’t resist a striped summery jumper for myself, and I buy a unicorn t-shirt for my granddaughter.
There are rows of unicorn t-shirts, jumpers and other stuff. Unicorns? Why the obsession with unicorns? (The answer is at the end of this post)
And, of course, there is the famous John o’Groats sign. It’s free to take your photo here, unlike Lands End which charges £10. I take photos of other people at their request: motorcyclists, day trippers, cyclists (a whole group of them pose), – but no long distance walkers.
I chat to a rather overweight biker, who has been badly bitten by midges, shattering my illusion that there aren’t any at this time of year. Poor thing.
I then further spoil his day by pointing out that this isn’t really the most northerly point of mainland Britain. That honour goes to Dunnet Head. He says he saw the signs to Dunnet Head and was confused, but hasn’t got the time to go back. He has a 5 hour ride ahead to get home.
My turn to have my photo taken. I’ve made it. John o’Groats. It may not be the most northerly point on mainland Britain, but it certainly is an iconic landmark .
The finger posts mention New York, Lands End, Orkney, Edinburgh, but – surprisingly – there is no sign for London.
Nearby is a “Sticker Board”, with a sign asking people to please stick their stickers on the board and not on the signpost.
There is a little fishing boat in the harbour, and a ferry. Going to the Orkney’s I presume.
Here is another signpost. This one does include London: 690 miles away. Land’s End is 876 miles.
[Later, I do the maths and discover my Land’s End to John o’Groats journey has taken me along approx 3,884 miles of coastal walking. Over 3,000 miles more than the direct route!]
The bright buildings I saw earlier from the road are part of the John o’Groats Inn, a rebuilding of the original hotel that once stood here. What a great place to stay!
The eight sided tower has special significance in John o’Groats’ history. You can read the story here: https://www.visitjohnogroats.com/
Now, it’s time for lunch. [To be continued…]
Later, somewhat to my amazement, I discover the unicorn is Scotland’s national animal! Why? No idea.
Route so far today:
Ruth's Coastal Walk (UK) 
Congratulations Ruth, on another landmark! I did not realise the signpost photo was free up there. I think it was something like £30 at Land’s End, which I skipped out of principle.
I’m sure you’ll like John o’Groats when you get here. It is an interesting and fun place… unlike Lands End.
Yes “Groats” as the locals seemed to call it (at least, that is what I remember) is much better than Lands End. The sticker board is a good idea because when I was there the sign was covered in stickers – perhaps why that board was put up. I think the main hotel building there is original, but the bright coloured buildings alongside are new, at least I think. Love the viking photo! I don’t remember that being there but then I would have been too embarrassed to have my photo taken looking through it!
I’ve seen old photographs of the Lands End sign, and it was a mess with thousands of stickers. The board seems to have worked.
Fantastic effort! I’ve never been to lands end, but have heard all about its commercialisation – I too thought John o’Groats would be the same, but it’s really not, and I love it for that! 🙂
Thank you. Yes, John o’Groats exceeded my expectations!
Just love getting your email notifications, Ruth. As a Scot, I’ve been to Land’s End twice, but never to John o’Groats! We holiday twice a year in Achmelvich, so also enjoyed your posts of the Assynt area. You are a machine, Ruth! Keep on posting!
Valerie McKean
Hi Valerie, and thank you for your kind comments. You really must visit John o’Groats, if only as a stopping place on the way to Duncansby Head.
Well done Ruth! Yes I agree, Lands End was a disappointment – when I’ve finished my coast walk I may get to John O’Groats but probably not on foot. All the best Patricia
Worth a visit, Patricia. And good luck with the rest of your walk.
Congratulations on reaching a very significant landmark Ruth, well done 👍 You have just shattered my illusions though, I’ve always had the impression that John O’Groats was just a wild bit of headland with a signpost and maybe a small parking area – I didn’t realise there’s so much to it though it does look quite an interesting place.
It’s quite a large enterprise, but a fun place to visit.
Well done. A few more miles down the east coast to come.
All downhill from now on! 😀
Congratulations on another milestone……& that was over a year ago. How much further have you travelled, I wonder….. Hope you’re enjoying the NE coast. So pleased that John O’Groats didn’t disappoint.
Yes, can’t believe it was a year ago. I’ve had a difficult 12 months, which I will post about later…
So sorry to hear times have been difficult for you Ruth. I do hope things have improved now.
When we visited Lands End it was October so quite quiet and I didn’t dislike it. I did find John o’ Groats a bit tacky and I’m sure you had to pay to be photographed at the sign. Both visits were a long time ago (Cornwall about 2012, Lands End maybe 10 years before that) so I guess things will have changed!
I was really prepared to hate John o’Groats, so I suppose my expectations were low.
‘The lion and the unicorn were fighting for the crown!’ It doesn’t explain why the unicorn represents Scotland, but it goes back a long way.
Ah, of course. But somehow I never made the connection!
What a significant landmark to reach on your coastal walk. John O’Groats sounds a nice place. You are more determined than anyone else I know, keeping going through all your troubles and not even giving up when Covid hit.
I did know about the unicorn being Scotland’s national animal but don’t know why.
I enjoyed it very much Karen. And, yes, a significant landmark.
I find swearing at the wind while cycling helps me a great deal too. Well, I’ve never tried cycling into the wind without swearing so I guess I don’t really know for sure.
Congratulations on yet another landmark, Ruth!
😀
Fantastic achievement- another significant milestone- not sure me and Barbara will ever get that far!!!
I never thought I would get here either!
Well done.
I am never going to catch you up.