[This walk was completed on Monday 12th May 2025]

Nobody else gets off the bus at Munlochy. It’s a small place with houses among trees and a handful of shops. I set off along the road, heading back towards the main A832.

My plan is to find the footpath that runs alongside the A832 (according to the Core Path map) and then I hope to find a way across the fields to a place called Corrachie.

Yesterday, I realised I could take the bus to Munlochy and walk back to my Fortrose camp site. Yes, it does mean I will be walking backwards, but it also means I don’t have to pack up the van. So, this morning I cycled to the main road in Fortrose and caught the number 26 bus – which announces the next stop as if you were on a train – very handy if you haven’t a clue where you are, like me!

Is this the start of the Core Path? The sign is so weathered and covered in lichen that I can’t read the wording!

But, there is a path across the fields. Or… I hope it’s a path. Could just be tractor treads through the crops. Anyway, I follow it. That wooded hillock ahead is where Corrachie is, and I should be able to follow another Core Path around the coast from there.

Walking the coast can be logistics nightmare in Scotland. There is not the same extensive public footpath network as exists in England and Wales. Most of the time, there is no obvious coastal footpath, so I have to pick a route as best I can, and that often involves a lot of road walking. Even where there are paths marked on the map, that doesn’t mean they actually exist on the ground.

So, I can never be certain of finding a track through the woodland ahead, even though a Core Path is supposed to exist there too. Fingers crossed.

My current path takes me to a raised embankment, and I decide this must be an old railway line. It has a faint path running along the top. The Core Path? I think so.

The going is easy. The sun is shining, but the views over Munlochy Bay are obscured by a sea mist, and that spoils my photographs.

After a while, the embankment descends to a small car park. Here, an information sign confirms that I am walking along the old Black Isle Railway, that once connected Fortrose to the mainline. It was closed in 1960.

Luckily, the path continues on the other side of the car park, following the embankment until it ends, unceremoniously, in a farmer’s field. I follow a vague path alongside a fence, until that too seems to peter out.

At this point, I was hoping to find some route off to my right, that would take me up the hill towards Corrachie. But there are fences, and cattle in the distance (I really hate cows), and a farmer is moving something around in a trailer… and that all combines to deter me. I lack the courage to strike off cross-country.

So, I end up walking along the A832, something I was hoping to avoid.

It’s not a very busy road by English standards, but busy enough to keep me nervous and on edge. The verge is rough and bumpy – difficult to walk along – and I am constantly hopping off the tarmac to let a car or lorry speed by. And, they really do speeeeed by.

I’m very relieved to reach the turn-off to Corrachie. A blue sign indicates there is a bike route through to Avoch – my next destination. Very encouraging.

I find the road up to Corrachie hard work. Sun in my eyes. Steady slog uphill. And such a long, straight, boring road between hedges means there are few surprises, and nothing really interesting to see.

Corrachie turns out to consist of a farm, with a few surrounding houses. And… lots of cattle with baby calves in the field too!

I’m glad, in retrospect, that I stuck to the road.

At the top of the hill, the road swings round to the left, but a smaller track heads downwards to the right. At this point, I’m actually going backwards, but the track should lead round in a loop by the coast.

And a lovely track it is too. Fields and woodland. Sunshine hazy through the mist.

Sadly, in some places there is evidence of clear-felling of trees. Such a scar on the landscape. Luckily nature seems to be recovering. Perhaps it was boring pines that were felled? If so, could be a blessing.

Pine plantations are like deserts. Empty of life.

Now, most of the trees around me are beech, with a mix of native species. Birds singing. Flowers on the verges. And, as the track swings round to run above the coast, there are occasional glimpses of misty Munlochy Bay below me.

This walk really is lovely. I do like beach walking, but I think walking in woodland is even better. I feel my spirits lift and my steps feel light and easy. Maybe I need to do more forest walks?!

I come to a clearing with a rough bench. What a lovely view this would be on a clear day – overlooking the mouth of Munlochy Bay. Such a beautiful area.

The bench is inviting. 2pm and definitely time for lunch.

After eating, I lie down on the bench… yes, I still get very tired. My cancer and subsequent treatment has really sapped my energy. I’m not sure if I will ever be “back to normal”.

I notice a plaque on the back of the bench. “To the most curious, fearless, gregarious, adventurous, hard working, inspiring man I will ever know. My dad David Kelly.” What a beautiful epitaph.

He lived a long life (1936-2022), but it is a reminder that life is short. And I have walking to do. Onwards!

I would prefer to be walking closer to the sea, but there are private houses between me and the shore, and then an old quarry working to avoid.

Never mind. What a glorious walk this is. Beautiful quiet woodlands. A peaceful lane. A silent quarry below me, and the sea beyond. Gorgeous.

After a while, I leave the woodlands behind as the track curves around. I’m heading northwards, towards Avoch. Ploughed fields to my right.

The track branches. The sign informs me that this is the route of a circular walk to Avoch “by way of Ormond Castle”. (I love the old-fashioned phrasing!) I’m excited to see the castle – an ancient royal castle dating from the 12th Century.

But, before I reach the castle, I find another bench. Time for another rest.

I sit down and eat the rest of my food. The bench overlooks the waters of the Inner Moray Firth, looking northwards. That must be Fortrose in the distance, but a shame the view is too misty for decent photographs.

Time for a self-portait, using the timer on my Canon camera. Always a challenge to get the timing right. I trot away from the camera, and swing round just in time!

Then, onwards, to Ormond Castle!

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[To be continued…]

Route so far today:

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