196 Milford Haven to Dale

Most B&Bs like to make you wait till 8am or later, but the Heart of Oak serves breakfast between 6:30 and 7:30am. Full of eagerness, and full of bacon and eggs, I’m out walking before 9 o’clock. This early start makes me feel like a proper hiker – but turns out to be a mistake.

heart of oak, Ruth Livingstone

(If I’d hung about I would have missed the worst of the rain and cut out miles of unnecessary walking, for reasons I’ll explain later.) Continue reading

Posted in 13 Pembrokeshire | Tagged , , , , | 22 Comments

195 Pembroke to Milford Haven

Pembroke Castle looks splendid above the water of Pembroke River and seems in good condition for an old castle. When I mention this to a man walking with his dog, he tells me the castle was extensively rebuilt after being pummelled by Cromwell.

01 Pembroke Castle and Monkton, Ruth Livingstone hiking in Wales

Continue reading

Posted in 13 Pembrokeshire | Tagged , , , , | 12 Comments

194 Angle to Pembroke

I know the first part of today’s walk will be coastal. But later I’m anticipating an uninspiring slog around the edges of the oil refinery, surrounded I’m sure by the nondescript sprawl of industrial estates.

West Angle Bay is beautiful in the morning sunshine. To the side of the beach is a rocky area with a natural sea-water swimming pool. The backdrop is St Ann’s Head.

 West Angle Bay, Ruth Livingstone walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Continue reading

Posted in 13 Pembrokeshire | Tagged , , , , , | 16 Comments

193pm Castlemartin to West Angle Bay

After walking for several hours, I’ve finally reached Castlemartin, and I’m back to where I should have ended my walk yesterday if I hadn’t spent most of the day sheltering in the pub! I feel a sense of relief. I’m back on track.

The coastal footpath seems unsigned through Castlemartin, but I take the first left off the roundabout, go down a lane and find the path. To my right is farmland, to the left is the artillery range – and in the distance is the sea. I’m heading back to the coast.

 view over Castlemartin artillery range, Ruth walking in Pembrokeshire Continue reading

Posted in 13 Pembrokeshire | Tagged , , , , | 18 Comments

193am Bosherston to Castlemartin

I ask for an early breakfast, and catch the 9am coastal cruiser from Pembroke. This is the express service, avoiding beach detours, but my bus driver is the same as yesterday. He quizzes me about my walking plans. Am I going to spend the whole day in the pub again?

01 Coastal Cruiser, Ruth walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Continue reading

Posted in 13 Pembrokeshire | Tagged , , , , , | 10 Comments

192 Stackpole and Bosherston

The bus driver is highly critical of my plans. Why am I walking to Castlemartin on a Thursday? I should wait until Saturday when the firing range will be open to the public and I can walk along the coast. I should go and walk somewhere else today.

When I explain I must walk the coast in sequence, and can’t pick and choose, he raises his eyebrows in disgust. ‘Oh, you’re one of those,’ he says.

The bus – the Pembroke Coastal Cruiser – bounces along the country lanes, going down every dead-end and visiting every beach it can find along the way. It takes 90 minutes to cover the short distance from Pembroke to Stackpole Quay,  so my walk begins rather late. It’s nearly midday by the time I reach Barafundle Bay.

01 Barafundle Bay again, Ruth walking in Pembrokeshire

Continue reading

Posted in 13 Pembrokeshire | Tagged , , , | 16 Comments

191 Manorbier to Stackpole Quay

I catch the bus back to Manorbier and spend a long time on the beach, just soaking up the views and taking photographs. It rained last night and the humidity of the last few days has been flushed out of the air. Everything is crisp and fresh.

Manorbier beach, Ruth's coastal walk through Pembrokeshire

In fact, today is one of those glorious summer days you dream about, with hardly a cloud in the sky. The sea is a tropical shade of turquoise and the air dazzlingly clear. Continue reading

Posted in 13 Pembrokeshire | Tagged , , , , | 7 Comments

190 Tenby to Manorbier

The humid weather continues, and the BBC forecast predicts thunderstorms arriving at around 1pm this afternoon.

I was planning to walk from Tenby to Freshwater East, but instead I decide to cut today’s walk short. My new plan is to be safely under cover in a pub in Manorbier by lunch time, just before the storm breaks. So, anticipating an easy 8 mile stroll, I set off from Tenby and begin my walk along the magnificent South Beach.

01 South Beach, Tenby, Ruth walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path
Continue reading

Posted in 13 Pembrokeshire | Tagged , , , , | 20 Comments

189 (pm) Amroth to Tenby

After lunch, I ask the bartender to refill my water bottles. Then I leave the pub and cross the road to walk next to the shore. I’m looking forward to reaching the next village – Amroth – and passing over the border into Pembrokeshire, because this will mean I’m finally joining the famous Pembrokeshire Coast Path.

It comes as a surprise to find a marker plinth and realise I’m already there! So this is the start of the official Pembrokeshire Path? I feel a tingle of excitement. I’d been looking forward to this moment. A photograph is necessary…

 Beginning of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, at Amroth, Ruth's coastal walk around the UK

… and it’s also time to swap maps. I put away OS 177 and open up OL 36. Hello, new friend! The double-sided OL36 map should see me through almost as far as St Davids, by which time I will be more than 1/2 way along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. Continue reading

Posted in 13 Pembrokeshire | Tagged , , , , | 18 Comments

189 (am) Pendine to Amroth

Last night I moved, by train, from Carmarthen to a B&B in Tenby, and this morning I have to catch the bus back to Pendine. The journey takes an hour, with the bus rocking and rolling along the narrow lanes in a drunken fashion. I’m always surprised so few people travel by bus because it’s a great way to see the countryside. A funeral party gets on and then off somewhere near Amroth, and a couple of walkers a few stops later. By the time the bus reaches Pendine, I am the only passenger left.

I walk along the beach and take some photographs. Straight ahead is Dolwen Point with Gilman Point behind.

Pendine and Gilman Point, Ruth walking the Wales Coast Path

Continue reading

Posted in 12 South Wales | Tagged , , , , | 16 Comments