208 Cardigan to Aberporth

Today is a walk in three parts. All very different.

Despite my sadness at finishing the Pembrokeshire National Trail, I’m looking forward to the Ceredigion Coast Path. It starts gently from Cardigan, beginning with a pleasant walk alongside the river.

01 beginning of Ceredigion Coast Path, Cardigan

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207 Moylgrove to Cardigan

This morning I catch the bus from Cardigan to Moylgrove, and then walk along the narrow road that leads towards the coast.

01 road from Molygrove, Ruth's coastal walk

There is a lovely, relaxed feel to this part of Wales. I pass a driveway with bags of fresh apples for sale (£1 per bag, in an honesty box). The next driveway has cartons of fresh eggs for sale and another honesty box. And another offers free horse manure, but they want the sacks back, please. Continue reading

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206 Newport to Moylgrove

I catch the bus to Newport, which looks very attractive this morning, despite the tide being out. As usual I take far too many photographs. Dinas Head is impressive in the distance.

01 Newport and Dinas Head, Ruth's coastal walk, Pembrokeshire

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205 Fishguard to Newport

Fishguard is set on the slope of a hill overlooking the town’s wide harbour. The streets are lined by a weird mix of pretty houses in bright colours, trendy art shops, boarded-up hotels and run down pubs.

01 Fishguard street, Ruth walking the Wales Coast

I have a feeling it could be a great place to invest – as it might suddenly bloom into a vibrant seaside centre. But at the moment my B&B host is correct when he says the town seems rather dead. Continue reading

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204 Pwll Deri to Fishguard

Today is a vibrant day, full of light and staggering scenery. And seals.

I start where I left off last night, on the road leading to the Pwll Deri Youth Hostel. My husband drops me off, but my mother-in-law stops to admire the view. Towering above the sea is the impressive ridge, along which I walked yesterday.

01 view from Pwll Deri, Ruth walking the Pembrokeshire Coast with Ella Fields (senior)

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203 pm Aber Mawr to Pwll Deri

I find a circle on Aber Mawr beach. Someone has taken time to sort rocks into colours and create this pretty pattern.

b01 circle of stones on beach, Ruth Livingstone

Stone circles seem to be the theme of today’s walk. There are more to come – later. Continue reading

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203 am Porthgain to Aber Mawr

Porthgain used to be a busy port. Slate was brought in from the nearby quarries and cut up using water-powered mills, before being loaded onto ships. Waste from the quarries was used to make bricks and, later, crushed rock was exported for road making.

All that remains of this activity are ruins, including the impressive brick-storage hoppers which dominate the west side of the inlet. Porthgain is now primarily a tourist centre.

01 Porthgain harbour, Ruth Livingstone's coastal walk

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202 Whitesands Bay, St David’s Head to Porthgain

Whitesands Bay is my starting point. It’s a dull day with showers forecast. The beach was crowded last time I was here in August, but now it’s empty. I’m well wrapped up – beanie hat against the wind, waterproof jacket, fleece, etc.

dull start, Whitesands Bay, Ruth walking the Wales Coast Path

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201 St Davids to Whitesands Bay

I leave my car in the large car park on the edge of St David’s and walk down the lane to Caerfai Bay, where I realise I could have parked for free.

It is eerily quiet. In the fields around me, campers are emerging from their tents and stretching stiff limbs in the morning sunshine. I look out over the bowl of little Caerfai Bay, with its empty beach hidden below, to where the misty-grey outline of St Bride’s Bay spreads in a gentle curve around the horizon.

St Brides Bay, Ruth on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

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200 Newgale to St Davids

It is supposed to be raining today. The BBC has issued a travel warning: thunderstorms and floods are expected. But, as I climb out of Newgale, there is no sign of rain. The morning sky is covered in a haze of milky grey, the air calm.

01 Ruth Livingstone walking out of Newgale Continue reading

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