I’m back at Moine House, where I secure my Scooty bike behind the ruined building. It is a much brighter day today, and – despite the fact that the cycle ride was all uphill – I’m feeling refreshed and ready for a day’s walking.
Today is the first day of operation for the Cape Wrath ferry. Yesterday, I moved to a campsite in Tongue, so it’s a long drive back to Durness along single track roads to reach the ferry terminal. I’m there just before 10am and in good time for the first crossing of the season.
It’s a good job I’m early. There is already a little queue on the ferry slipway.
A jolly man joins us, and assures us the ferry really is running, and the minibus won’t leave without us. At first I think he must be the ferryman, but it turns out he is the minibus driver.
It’s the Coronation Bank Holiday Monday. I climb back up to yesterday’s parking spot and take a photograph over the bay. The fish farm is hidden below trees. Ahead, across the bay, is the long and winding road I will be following today.
I’ve hidden my bike just below the parking place, behind an old shed. While fixing the bike’s lock, I managed to cut my finger on – of all things – a sharp blade of long grass. So, yet again, I start the day bleeding!
It’s a Sunday and there are no buses running. So, with no bus to catch, I can enjoy a lie in and a leisurely breakfast. Then I drive off in the van and find somewhere to park on the other side of Loch Eriboll, before jumping on my Scooty bike and cycling back to the telephone box in Laid.
It’s midday by the time I reach the Laid phonebox (which is in working order – I usually check!). I wrestle Scooty into a safe spot behind a rock – where he decides to fall painfully on my leg before he submits to being chained up. (We have a love-hate relationship!)
Today is Saturday, and it is Coronation Day for Charles III. (Although, perhaps not wise to mention this to anyone in Scotland!) Apparently it is raining in London – but, in Durness, I wake up to brilliant light and sunshine at 6am. How wonderful. I can wear my sun hat! But I keep my fleece hat on too, because it is cold.
There is a regular bus service between Durness and Rhiconich. What a relief to leave my bike behind and catch a lift – in a comfortable minibus – because the weather has been blowing a hurricane, and cycling would have been tricky in the gale.
It takes me some time to explain to the driver where I want to be dropped off. “It’s just before a bridge called Drochaid Mhor, in the middle of nowhere, where there is a layby with a phone box.”
Today, I’m walking towards Durness. It’s only 14 miles, according to this road sign, but I won’t be doing the whole distance in one go. What was once an easy task (walking a mere 14 miles), now seems quite daunting. Of course, I also have to cycle the same distance… but I really am slowing down with old age!
Every coastal walker who has walked through this area has told me I MUST visit Sandwood Bay. So, here I am, at the beginning of the path that leads to the beach, and I’m filled with a mixture of excitement and apprehension. I’m finally going to see this famous bay.
But, perhaps the route will be too tough for me? Even worse, perhaps the bay will turn out to be a disappointment?
After my very unhealthy lunch of teacake with jam, I walk back up the hill to the turn off to Oldshoremore, where there is another hill to climb. Near the top I pass the Kinlochbervie Hotel. Great views!
At the top of the hill, the road narrows. I pass a cottage with its front wall painted bright orange – an unusual colour for a wall, although I have seem many orange/red roofs in Scotland.
The Rhiconich Hotel may not look anything special from the outside, but inside it is a warm and welcoming place. There is a bar, a restaurant, a friendly host, good cider, and last night there was a log fire in the woodburner in the lounge. Bliss!
Response ID: 328,436,497 Report number: 1222 Location: Ceredigion Coast Path (part of the Wales Coast Path) between Gwbert & Mwnt Date: 04/02/26 2 walkers, no dog, meet about 40 Welsh Black bullocks Pips report: “On the return stretch of our walk we encountered extremely treacherous terrain and a herd of about 40 Welsh Black bullocks […]
Incident number:1220 Response ID: 328,248,081 Location: Back Forest Farm, River Dane, near Wincle & DaneBridge, Peak District ///wasps.promote.homelands Date 26/01/26 Single walker, no dog SY’s Report: “I was heading back to DaneBridge/Wincle from Gradbach/Black Forest. I’d walked by Back Forest Farm along the path between their fields and came to a gate/stile. As I crossed […]
Incident number: 1218 Response ID: 320,795,463 Date of incident: 29.12.2025 Location: Below Denston Hall, Denston Suffolk Status: Lone walker with dog on lead on PROW L.Cooper’s story “I saw a group of cows ahead and waited to see if they would move. As I couldn’t get past without going near to them I backtracked and […]