242 Llanfachraeth to Llanfaethlu

I hurry to catch the late afternoon bus to Llanfachraeth. It’s one of the few buses on an erratic service that will get me anywhere close to my starting point. The bus driver asks if I’ve enjoyed my walk and seems surprised when I explain I’ve been waiting for the rain to stop and I’m only just setting out!

The first part of the route is familiar as I retrace my steps from yesterday. I reach the bridge and am pleased to be back on the coastal path again.

01 bridge near Llanfachraeth, Ruth walking the Isle of Anglesey coast path

But I don’t cross the bridge because, today, I’m staying on this side of the estuary. Instead, I follow the coast path along a rain-sodden path…

02 path along bank of river, Ruth Livingstone

… and through fields of dripping crops. At least the rape flowers are cheerful, even if the day remains stubbornly gloomy.

03 walking through field of rape, Ruth on the Wales Coast Path

I walk along a raised bank, with sea marshes on one side and land marshes on the other…

04 bank, Ruth hiking near Llanfachraeth

… until I eventually regain the shore.

05 Tywyn-gwyn, Ruth hiking in Anglesey, Traeth y Gribin

I turn and walk northwards. The beach I’m walking along is nameless on my map. With the tide out, the shore consists of a broad expanse of mud. Across the water is Holyhead and the now-familiar sight of the tall aluminium-works chimney.

06 view across to Holyhead, Ruth's coastal walk, Anglesy

The whole area feels remote, with the nearest village some miles away, but I’m never far from human habitation as there are numerous houses dotted about the landscape. This would be a nice place to live, overlooking the nameless beach.

07 looking back, Traeth y Gribin, Ruth hiking the Anglesey coastal path

I cross over the headland and come down towards another beach. Porth Penrhyn-Mawr.

08 Ruth hiking to PorthPenrhyn-mawr, Anglesey

At the far end is a collection of houses and static holiday homes. From here I follow a narrow road running inland and parallel to the shore…

09 road walking, Penrhyn to Tywyn Cliperau, Ruth's coastal walk, Wales

… towards another collection of static holiday homes, along with a campsite of caravans and tents.

10 Porth Tywyn-Mawr holiday site, Ruth's coastal walk, Anglesey

The next beach is called Porth Tywyn-mawr according to my map. But local signs suggest a different name: Sandy Bay. And that’s a much better name for it, because the bay consists of a wonderful, long expanse of sand.

11 Porth Tywyn-Mawr, Ruth hiking the Isle of Anglesey Coastal Path

This end (near the holiday park) is relatively crowded. The other end is virtually deserted.

I walk along the top of the beach and watch tractors towing boats down to the water.  You would need to know the safe places to launch because there are plenty of rocks about. Meanwhile, out in the bay, a speed boat bumps across the waves.

12 boat launching, Porth Tywyn-mawr, Ruth's coastal walk, Anglesey

Beyond Sandy Bay is another headland and another beach. Porth Trefadog. I stop and sit on a rock for a drink and a snack, and watch a group of young people playing football.

13 Porth Trefadog, Ruth Livingstone hiking in Anglesey

At the end of Porth Trefadog I climb up yet another low headland. The sun is making a brave attempt to light up the landscape and I take a photograph looking back along the beach.

14 sun on Porth Trefadog, Ruth Livingstone in Wales

Onwards. I walk along a narrow path. A fence on one side, gorse bushes on the other.

Ruth's coastal walk, Anglesey, Wales

The next bay is also nameless but I see something rather unusual. Resting on the next headland, pulled up well above the high tide mark, is the rusting hull of a sizeable ship. Is it a wreck that washed ashore here? Or was it deliberately brought here to break up? There appears to be a small scrap yard nearby, so I suspect the latter.

16 old boat, Porth y Ffynnon, Ruth hiking the coast, Anglesey

Over the headland and I’m on a wild shoreline, following a narrow path. This cove is Porth Defaid. Followed by Porth Fudr.

17 Porth Ffynnon, Ruth's coastal walk, Anglesey

The next bay is Porth Trwyn. By now it’s nearly 7pm and the evening sunlight breaks through and lights up the houses that line the low cliffs.

18 Porth Trwyn, Ruth's coastal walk, Anglesey

But the sunshine has arrived too late. I’ve come to the end of the coastal section of my walk today, and it’s time to turn inland to find my car which is parked in a village called Llanfaethlu on the main road.

I follow a mother and her little daughter and we walk away from the beach and up the gravel track.

19 Porth Trwyn, Borthwen, Ruth hiking the coast path, Anglesey

The mother and child turn off into a small complex of holiday homes but I continue along the track, now a tarmac road. On and on. For more than a mile. It seems to be relentlessly uphill most of the way. And this is not the coast path, of course, just the route back to my car. So it’s the frustrating type of walking I call ‘wasted walking’.

When I get close to the village, I pass a small church perched on the hill. On a clear day there would be wonderful views from here. What a pity the light is too dull for decent photography.

20 church at Llanfaethlu, Ruth Livingstone

Llanfaethlu has a single shop and no pub. I reach the main road and find the bus stop where my car is parked. It’s always a relief to see it again.

21 back to the car, hiking in Anglesey

If I found my transport logistics difficult today, tomorrow will be even worse because tomorrow is a Sunday and there will be no buses running at all. Luckily, I have a cunning plan… but that will have to wait until the morning.

Miles walked today = 7.5 miles
Wales Coast Path so far = 922 miles
Total distance around the coast: 2,429  miles


About Ruth Livingstone

Walker, writer, photographer, blogger, doctor, woman, etc.
This entry was posted in 16 Anglesey and North Wales and tagged , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

8 Responses to 242 Llanfachraeth to Llanfaethlu

  1. owdjockey says:

    Hi Ruth, I had a similar distance to walk along the road down to Cemlyn Bay twice to link up my start and end points. That small area of Anglesey is not served so well for public transport

  2. Porth Tywyn-mawr literally means “great dunes bay” but tywyn can sometimes just be taken to mean seashore or beach (which is usually traeth). So I guess it was well-named in both languages. 🙂

  3. Claire says:

    Good afternoon, Ruth
    I’m looking to write a blog post regarding walking and back health/ back pain and was wondering if you’d be willing to try out one of our back support products to support this? I feel yourself, with your significant amount of walking would be able to give valuable feedback.
    Please give me a reply if you’re interested and I can email you in more detail. Enjoy your next walk 🙂

  4. Marie Keates says:

    I’m glad the rain tuned to almost sun in the end and that your car was still there. I loved the wrecked ship. Just my kind of thing.

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