[This walk was completed on Saturday 30th May, 2026]

It was grey this morning when I left my hotel in Nairn, and made the dismal cycle ride to the entrance of the Ardersier Energy Transition Facility. And much of today will be road-walking. Oh dear.

I leave my Scooty bike chained up behind one of the mysterious non-functioning bus shelters.

I’m wearing my winter coat and my hi-vis vest. Better to be alive and visible rather than squashed by a fast-moving vehicle.

Set off along the road. Head down. Walking quickly. Luckily it’s a Saturday and traffic is light. Not much to see – a rather boring road, to be honest.

I’m passed by a woman on an e-bike in a pink jacket. Hmm… looks familiar.

[Later, I check my photographs and – yes – it’s the same woman I saw yesterday cycling to Fort George and then back again. Maybe this is a daily bike ride for her?]

There are a few dwellings scattered along the road. Prosaic names. “South Roadside Cottage”. And, yes, there is a “North Roadside Cottage” too. Just across the road.

To my left are fields and, in the distance, a tantalising glimpse of water. That’s the Moray Firth over there and the opening to Cromarty Firth. I can see the bright gorse of the far hill that marks the route of my walk last year.

As always in Scotland, I seem to have walked for day and days.. and I end up only a few miles from somewhere where I was last year!

I’m looking for a turn-off to my left that should take me to a place called Hilton of Denies. Weird name. [Later, I learn it’s called Hilton of Delnies, but I wasn’t wearing my glasses and read the map incorrectly!] From the end of the road, I might be able to follow a track to the shore.

This is the road I want. It may turn out to be a dead-end but it looks promising. And no traffic.

About half a mile down the road, I come to a large house. This must be Hilton of Denies Delnies. In the distance is the sea, and an industrial platform that must belong to the Energy Transition Facility.

What’s the platform for? Oil rigs? I somehow assumed the facility was used to service wind farms nowadays.

A plane flies low above me. Landing gear down. En route to Inverness airport.

I’m nervous approaching the big house. Am I trespassing? But a signpost is reassuring as it bears the familiar footpath signs, and a notice warning me to “Take Care. This is a working farmyard.”

I walk through the farmyard. No sign of anybody working. No sign of anybody at all.

The track continues around a corner and there – to my surprise – is a car park! With a couple of cars.

My OS map didn’t show a car park here. Mind you, it didn’t show the Ardersier Energy Transition Facility either! All very mysterious.

From the car park, the track bends westwards, but I follow a path that heads eastwards – because that’s the direction I need to take to get back to Nairn. All goes well at first…

…but my path soon deteriorates into a vague track through prickly gorse. And then comes to a dead end in front of an impenetrable barrier of gorse bushes.

I turn back and, after a few other false trails that end in prickly dead-ends, I finally decide to follow the main track, even though it is leading in the wrong direction.

It was the right decision. Eventually, I come to a sandy path over a low dune…

… and discover this glorious beach. Miles of empty sand looking towards Nairn.

And miles of empty sand looking back towards the Energy Transition place. Just a couple of other walkers and a dog.

[Later, I find this beach labelled as “The Secret Beach” on Google Maps. Yes, it really is secret.]

My spirits lift. It’s wonderful to be back beside the sea again. Yesterday, my walk was all inland. And this beach really is lovely, despite the dull weather.

I set off to walk along the sand and meet nobody else. Just a determined crow pecking at something decaying on the shore.

Eventually, sand gives way to rocks, and I clamber up to find myself at the start (or end) of a golf course.

Walking through golf courses is a common experience along the coast, especially in Scotland.It might be possible, at low tide, to walk all the way to Nairn along the beach. But the sand is covered with water at the moment.

I set off across the grass, keeping as close to the shore as I can.

I notice that all the golfers I meet are friendly – smiling and waving at me – and they are all women. Unusual. Oh, it must be a ladies’ tournament. I hope I’m not putting them off.

The views across the water are lovely, despite the dull light. I’m always surprised to see a swan in the sea.

It starts raining before I reach the end of the golf course. Not heavy. Just a light drizzle that swirls around in the strong breeze.

At the end, I pass through another gate and join a road that acts as a golfer car park.

This road swings inland, but I can join a promenade that follows the coast. Love the grove of Scots pines, and an imposing hotel. (My hotel isn’t nearly as grand, and almost certainly a lot cheaper!)

The drizzle gets everywhere, swirling through every nook and cranny in my jacket. By the time I reach the main approach to Nairn, I’m feeling tired and damp.

I had planned to walk all through Nairn today and then catch a bus back to my hotel… but I really don’t feel like walking any further in this weather. Take refuge in a shelter out of the rain, and eat my packed lunch.

After that, I feel better, but decided to call it a day. Head back to my hotel room to dry out.

---

More information about the Secret Beach can be found here: The Secret Beach – Nairn Scotland

Information about the Ardersier Energy Transition Facility can be found here: Ardersier Energy Transition Facility – Haventus And, yes, it’s function is the servicing of offshore wind farms.

Miles walked today = 5 miles

Total distance around coast = 5,282.5 miles

Route today:

---