The wide stretch of Silver Bay is empty. I know there is a holiday park hidden somewhere close by, and can see a tiny shack-cum-café at the top of the beach, but it’s closed. Nobody on the sands. I wish I could stay longer in this beautiful place.

The wide stretch of Silver Bay is empty. I know there is a holiday park hidden somewhere close by, and can see a tiny shack-cum-café at the top of the beach, but it’s closed. Nobody on the sands. I wish I could stay longer in this beautiful place.

I wait for the bus and the driver doesn’t seem to understand what I mean by ‘Four Mile Bridge’. Instead, he suggests a name that has Pont in it, or maybe a Bont. Anyway, it turns out to be the right place.

I cross the bridge onto Holy Island and turn immediately left, following the coast path signs. The tide is high and there is barely a path to walk along. Continue reading
It’s a Sunday and, with no buses running, I drive to Valley and catch the train back to Rhosneigr. It’s a request-only stop. The train conductor looks at my rucksack and then down at my boots, puts two and two together, and says he hopes I enjoy my walk.

Funny what a difference a few simple words make. His cheerful friendliness sets me off in a good mood. Continue reading
I catch the bus into Aberffraw and start my walk along the river bank, heading towards the coast. The tide is high.

As I approach the beach at the mouth of the estuary, I’m greeted by the familiar sight of Yr Eifl on the far horizon. I’m pretty sure today will be last time I get such a good view of its triple peaks. Continue reading
I’m feeling better today, apart from a persistent cough. I park my car at the top of Newborough Forest, and walk down a woodland track…

… until I reach the coastal path at the point I left it yesterday. Continue reading
This morning the mountains of the mainland are clearly visibly beyond the vegetated dunes of Newborough Warren. It’s wonderful to see the three peaks of Yr Eifl and to remember how much I enjoyed climbing over the pass and down to Trefor.

My B&B host kindly offers me a lift and drops me off on the A4080, close to Llanfair PG. Today I face yet more road walking, but the day gets off to a promising start with a tree-lined footpath running alongside the road. Much better than walking IN the road.
I spend a restless night, coughing and sweating, and in the morning realise I have no appetite for breakfast. I also realise something else. My terrible fatigue yesterday was not due to lack of willpower, nor lack of fitness, nor laziness. I’m ill. Whew! What a relief.
Fortified with paracetamol, I manage to find the bus stop where I ended my last walk prematurely, and resume marching along the B4547. I pass the gates to a grand estate.

I arrive in Caernarfon at 3pm and drive around, looking for a parking space. It’s taken me longer than I anticipated to travel here from Lincolnshire and I am feeling both irritated and unusually fatigued. Eventually, I park in the car park just beyond the Victoria Dock.

The morning is dull with a cold east wind. I stand on the beach at Dinas Dinlle and look back at the three peaks of Yr Eifl. Still so close. Despite walking for many hours yesterday I seem to have made little progress.
