205 Fishguard to Newport

Fishguard is set on the slope of a hill overlooking the town’s wide harbour. The streets are lined by a weird mix of pretty houses in bright colours, trendy art shops, boarded-up hotels and run down pubs.

01 Fishguard street, Ruth walking the Wales Coast

I have a feeling it could be a great place to invest – as it might suddenly bloom into a vibrant seaside centre. But at the moment my B&B host is correct when he says the town seems rather dead. Continue reading

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204 Pwll Deri to Fishguard

Today is a vibrant day, full of light and staggering scenery. And seals.

I start where I left off last night, on the road leading to the Pwll Deri Youth Hostel. My husband drops me off, but my mother-in-law stops to admire the view. Towering above the sea is the impressive ridge, along which I walked yesterday.

01 view from Pwll Deri, Ruth walking the Pembrokeshire Coast with Ella Fields (senior)

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203 pm Aber Mawr to Pwll Deri

I find a circle on Aber Mawr beach. Someone has taken time to sort rocks into colours and create this pretty pattern.

b01 circle of stones on beach, Ruth Livingstone

Stone circles seem to be the theme of today’s walk. There are more to come – later. Continue reading

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203 am Porthgain to Aber Mawr

Porthgain used to be a busy port. Slate was brought in from the nearby quarries and cut up using water-powered mills, before being loaded onto ships. Waste from the quarries was used to make bricks and, later, crushed rock was exported for road making.

All that remains of this activity are ruins, including the impressive brick-storage hoppers which dominate the west side of the inlet. Porthgain is now primarily a tourist centre.

01 Porthgain harbour, Ruth Livingstone's coastal walk

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202 Whitesands Bay, St David’s Head to Porthgain

Whitesands Bay is my starting point. It’s a dull day with showers forecast. The beach was crowded last time I was here in August, but now it’s empty. I’m well wrapped up – beanie hat against the wind, waterproof jacket, fleece, etc.

dull start, Whitesands Bay, Ruth walking the Wales Coast Path

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201 St Davids to Whitesands Bay

I leave my car in the large car park on the edge of St David’s and walk down the lane to Caerfai Bay, where I realise I could have parked for free.

It is eerily quiet. In the fields around me, campers are emerging from their tents and stretching stiff limbs in the morning sunshine. I look out over the bowl of little Caerfai Bay, with its empty beach hidden below, to where the misty-grey outline of St Bride’s Bay spreads in a gentle curve around the horizon.

St Brides Bay, Ruth on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

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200 Newgale to St Davids

It is supposed to be raining today. The BBC has issued a travel warning: thunderstorms and floods are expected. But, as I climb out of Newgale, there is no sign of rain. The morning sky is covered in a haze of milky grey, the air calm.

01 Ruth Livingstone walking out of Newgale Continue reading

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199 Little Haven to Newgale

Little Haven looks different this morning. The tide is out. Good. That means I should be able to walk along the beach to Broad Haven, thus cutting out a mile or so of road-walking.

01 Little Haven, Ruth walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

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198 Marloes to Little Haven

The Puffin Shuttle stops in Marloes to wait for the connecting service to arrive from Dale. I take the opportunity to leap off and snap a photograph of the colourful paintings on the side of the bus…

01 Puffin Shuttle, Ruth walking in Pembrokeshire

… before we continue to Martin’s Haven. Last time I was here there was a gale blowing and I felt exhausted. Today is calm and sunny. The weather makes such a difference! Continue reading

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197 Dale to Marloes

There are only 3 buses a day from Milford Haven to Dale and I catch the earliest one. It is comparatively crowded with day-trippers. I look out for fellow walkers and see a possible candidate hefting a big backpack. But she is wearing a pink skirt so I know she can’t be a walker.

Dale looks even prettier with the tide high. I stop to take photos. The pink-skirted woman heads off somewhere – she is on the far right of the photo below.

01 Dale, Ruth walking the Pembrokeshire Coast

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