149c Minehead, and the end of the South West Coast Path.

Posted on July 8, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

I am walking along Culver Cliff, through woodland, towards Minehead. Nearly there. And that means I am nearly at the end of the South West Coast Path.

low path to Minehead, Ruth walking the SWCP
As I follow the path, sloping downwards towards the outskirts of the town, I am overcome with a very strong feeling. An orange line crosses my map at about this point. That means I am crossing over a boundary, moving out of Devon and into Somerset. Out of the domain of pixies and pirates and into the world of scrumpy and Glastonbury. I feel the division as though it is a physical barrier, an invisible wall that I am about to walk through. Continue reading →

Posted in 11 Somerset | Tagged , , , , | 15 Comments

149b Hurlstone Point to Minehead

Posted on July 8, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

Beyond the old lookout tower of Hurlstone Point the footpath continues. This not the official South West Coast Path but, according to my map, the track should loop around the headland and re-join the SWCP on the other side of the peak.

The path is narrow – a ledge really – above a steep drop to the sea. There is a warning sign – Walkers are Advised to Take Precautions when Using Path in Adverse Weather Conditions. What type of precautions? What does that mean, exactly? Luckily the weather this afternoon is fine.

warning sign, Ruth walking the coast, Hurlstone Point Continue reading →

Posted in 11 Somerset | Tagged , , , , | 9 Comments

149 Porlock Weir to Hurlstone Point

Posted on July 8, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

Setting off from Porlock Weir, the first section of the South West Coast Path runs along Porlock beach for a few hundred yards.

I wouldn’t really call this a beach. Shingle! It’s my least-favourite walking surface, after mud. But the path seems well-defined and I certainly don’t want to walk along the road.

SWCP crossing shingle, Ruth on her coastal walk, Porlock

Continue reading →

Posted in 11 Somerset | Tagged , , , , | 6 Comments

148b Lynmouth to Porlock Weir

Posted on July 7, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

The South West Coast Path splits into two and I take the lower route, staying among the trees and closer to where I know the sea must be, somewhere on my left. But inside the wood my horizon is limited by trees and ferns. No landmarks to guide me.

lunch beside a waterfall, Ruth on the SWCP, SomersetIt is still raining. Once there were dry patches under the trees, now everything is soaking. Puddles fill the hollows in the path. Water oozes out of the soil.

I feel totally alone. I’ve not seen a human being for 3 hours. Even my companion flies seem to have disappeared.

I come to a pretty waterfall, one of the many that brings streams flowing across the path. And I find an almost-dry branch, wedged between two rocks, a piece of debris carried down by the water during the 2013 winter storms, I imagine.

Somewhere to sit. At last. Continue reading →

Posted in 11 Somerset | Tagged , , , , | 15 Comments

148a Lynmouth to Porlock Weir

Posted on July 7, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

I stay the night in Porlock Weir. Hubby has gone home and I find it is surprisingly difficult to get from Porlock to Lynmouth by public transport. Only 3 buses a day cross this stretch of Exmoor.

It begins raining as I wait for the exceedingly-rare no. 300 bus. Exmoor is grey, watery and bleak. The bus makes only three stops on the way over the moors. But the sun is shining by the time we reach Lynmouth. Hoorah!

Lynmouth, Ruth on her coastal walk around the UK, Devon

I take plenty of photos. Lynmouth must be even prettier when the tide comes in. Continue reading →

Posted in 09 Devon | Tagged , , , , | 7 Comments

147 Holdstone Hill, Lee Bay to Lynmouth

Posted on July 6, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

This morning I decide to accomplish yesterday’s mission. I will climb to the top of Holdstone Hill. At 349 metres, it is the highest point around. And so I ask my husband to drop me off at the car park giving the nearest access to the summit.

The path is well-worn. There is a cairn and a trig point at the top.

Holdstone Hill, Ruth walking north Devon

Continue reading →

Posted in 09 Devon | Tagged , , , , | 14 Comments

146c Combe Martin to Holdstone Down

Posted on July 5, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

There is a concrete path running around the side of the bay at Combe Martin, and further along I can see a flight of steps leading upwards. I decide the steps must join the South West Coast Path, knowing it is somewhere on the slope above, and I set off.

On the way I pass a young boy who has been fishing in a rock pool. He has caught a large crab. He tells me it is only one of many – but the rest escaped.
steps to nowhere, Combe Martin, Ruth's coastal walkI climb the steep steps but find, to my surprise, Continue reading →

Posted in 09 Devon | Tagged , , , , | 18 Comments

146b Ifracombe to Combe Martin

Posted on July 5, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

It is hot and sunny July day. I walk along the track leading out of Ilfracombe and find a shady park with views over towards Ilfracombe’s pier. I can’t resist taking a final photograph of Verity, standing pregnant and proud at the entrance to the harbour.

a01 Verity from across the water, Ruth on her coastal walk through IlfracombeHere an information plaque gives some information about the great sculpture and this is where I first learn that she was created by Damien Hirst. It explains she is “an allegory for truth and justice”, but doesn’t explain why she is partially dissected. Continue reading →

Posted in 09 Devon | Tagged , , , , | 10 Comments

146a Ilfracombe

Posted on July 5, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

Back in Ilfracombe, I cross the small beach and begin heading up to Capstone Point. Looking back, I can see the way I walked yesterday – the tourist office set in the base of one of the strange kiln-like buildings and, beyond, the sunlit green slopes of Torrs Park.

Ilfracombe, view over tourist office from Caspstone Point, Ruth walking the coast

I am heading east today, into the rising sun. Continue reading →

Posted in 09 Devon | Tagged , , , , | 12 Comments

145 Lee Bay to Ilfracombe

Posted on April 21, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

What is wrong with the British weather? It’s Easter Monday and the sun is shining! Lee Bay looks even better on a sunny day and with the tide high.

01 Lee Bay, Ruth on her coastal walk, north Devon

I plan a short hike this morning. My aim is to walk along the South West Coast Path from Lee to Ilfracombe, where I will meet up with my hubby and his mother, before we set off on our long drive home. Continue reading →

Posted in 09 Devon | Tagged , , , , | 7 Comments