103 Looe to Polperro

We have trouble driving here this morning. There are ‘Road Closed’ signs in place due to terrible landslips caused by weeks of torrential rain. Despite the fact the main road is now open, we inadvertently follow the diverted route and drive into East Looe along a frighteningly narrow street – barely wide enough to take a car.

Looe harbour, Ruth walking around the coastline, UK It is high tide. Looe harbour is full of water but is strangely quiet, with few people around and little shipping activity. It may be bank holiday Easter Monday, and the sun may be shining, but there is a piercing east wind and it is very cold.

I linger in Looe taking photographs and putting off the moment when I have to face the wind on the exposed cliffs of the coastline. Continue reading

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102. Freathy, Portwrinkle to Looe

Freathy is a strange place – a collection of huts on a slope overlooking the sea. Today the sun only shines intermittently and the wind is still cold, blowing from the east.  The horizon is hazy, but I can see all the way back to Rame Head.

01 Freathy, Ruth's coastal walk on the SW Coast Path, Cornwall
The South West Coast Path runs alongside the coast road. Ahead, to the west, the shore curves around. The nearest headland must be Looe. Beyond- is that Lizard Point in the very far distance, lost in the blue haze of the horizon? Can I really see that far? Continue reading

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101 (part 2) Plymouth, Rame Head, Freathy

I am in Cornwall. Don’t think I’ve ever been here before and feel like an explorer standing on the edge of an unknown world. How exciting. Land’s End, here I come!

walk through woods, Ruth walking the South West Coast Path, CornwallFrom the Cremyll Ferry, the South West Coast Path follows the shore line along the western bank of Plymouth Sound. The first part of the walk is easy-going, along a wide track that hugs Continue reading

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101 (part 1) Plymouth

I begin my walk on Plymouth Hoe. It is Easter Saturday and the weather forecast says this will be the best day of the Easter weekend. It turns out to be a sunny day, not as windy as yesterday but still a very cold breeze.

Ruth, mother-in-law and dogs, Plymouth

I pose with my mother-in-law while my husband takes a photo and a couple of black labradors run up to us. One of them has a bunny in its mouth. Luckily, it turns out only to be a toy.

My mother-in-law loves dogs. We try to get them to sit and pose for the photograph, but they are too excited and keep running about. Continue reading

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100. Noss Mayo to Plymouth

We set off early on Good Friday – my husband, myself and my mother-in-law – determined to beat the traffic. We arrive in Wembury, Devon, four and a half hours later and end up being the first people in the pub. Well, we wanted to have an early lunch, didn’t we?

Ruth, dressed for winter, on her coastal walk around the UK The weather is very cold. I am kitted out in large fleece, warm anorak, ski gloves and woollen hat. With my poles, I look more like a skier than a walker. Continue reading

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99. Stoke Beach to Noss Mayo

Yesterday my walk ended in the rain. Today, the clouds are still low and ominous when I look back eastwards towards Bolt Tail and, beyond that, I can just make out Bolt Head.

morning view from Stoke Beach to Bolt Tail, Ruth Livingstone's coast walk

What a difference a new day makes. No rain. Morning light. A good night’s rest.

The South West Coast Path follows the top of the slope, but I have chosen to walk along the alternative route, down by the sea. Continue reading

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98. River Erme to Stoke Beach

 wet road, River Erme, Devon - Ruth walking around the coast.If only it was summer! The South West Coast Path crosses the River Erme near its mouth. At low tide the water, apparently, is less than knee deep and you simply wade across. Having read the accounts of people who have done it, this is an exhilarating experience.

But this is a November and we have had one of the wettest years on record. The water is freezing cold and the river level is high. Wading is out of the question. I am going to have to walk up the river to the nearest bridge.

Continue reading

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97. Aveton Gifford to River Erme

I arrive in Aveton Gifford to resume my walk and realise it is high tide. Although the village is three miles from the sea, the river Avon runs close by and, at high tide, the little road that runs down the west side of the river becomes flooded. This morning, sure enough, the road is impassable.

flooded road at Aveton Gifford, Ruth on her coastal walk Continue reading

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96. Hope Cove to Aveton Gifford

It rained all night and I was expecting rain today. Instead, I find a grey, moist blanket of fog covering the higher ground of the coast and blurring the boundary between sea and sky. Inner and Outer Hope are no longer sleepy, seaside villages. They have been transformed into mysterious outposts where smugglers and sea monsters lurk in the mists.

Hope Cove in the mist, Ruth's coastal Walk, Devon.

I leave Outer Hope behind and Continue reading

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95. Salcombe to Bolt Tail

Today, I am apprehensive about the walk ahead. Looking at the OS map, it seems a wild and desolate area. One section of cliff is actually called ‘Slippery Point’.

Ferry stop, Salcombe. Ruth walking the South West Coast path in Devon

I should have walked this stretch of coast when I was last down in Devon during August. But it was raining that day – a relentless downpour from low hanging grey clouds. Maybe, I said, it’s not a good idea to walk along Slippery Point in the rain? My husband called me a wimp. I told him I was simply being sensible.

This year has been the wettest on record and Devon has suffered from terrible floods. I thought I would never get walking again. But today, although the sun is not exactly shining, the clouds are high and white and no rain is forecast. Continue reading

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