100. Noss Mayo to Plymouth

We set off early on Good Friday – my husband, myself and my mother-in-law – determined to beat the traffic. We arrive in Wembury, Devon, four and a half hours later and end up being the first people in the pub. Well, we wanted to have an early lunch, didn’t we?

Ruth, dressed for winter, on her coastal walk around the UK The weather is very cold. I am kitted out in large fleece, warm anorak, ski gloves and woollen hat. With my poles, I look more like a skier than a walker. Continue reading

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99. Stoke Beach to Noss Mayo

Yesterday my walk ended in the rain. Today, the clouds are still low and ominous when I look back eastwards towards Bolt Tail and, beyond that, I can just make out Bolt Head.

morning view from Stoke Beach to Bolt Tail, Ruth Livingstone's coast walk

What a difference a new day makes. No rain. Morning light. A good night’s rest.

The South West Coast Path follows the top of the slope, but I have chosen to walk along the alternative route, down by the sea. Continue reading

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98. River Erme to Stoke Beach

 wet road, River Erme, Devon - Ruth walking around the coast.If only it was summer! The South West Coast Path crosses the River Erme near its mouth. At low tide the water, apparently, is less than knee deep and you simply wade across. Having read the accounts of people who have done it, this is an exhilarating experience.

But this is a November and we have had one of the wettest years on record. The water is freezing cold and the river level is high. Wading is out of the question. I am going to have to walk up the river to the nearest bridge.

Continue reading

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97. Aveton Gifford to River Erme

I arrive in Aveton Gifford to resume my walk and realise it is high tide. Although the village is three miles from the sea, the river Avon runs close by and, at high tide, the little road that runs down the west side of the river becomes flooded. This morning, sure enough, the road is impassable.

flooded road at Aveton Gifford, Ruth on her coastal walk Continue reading

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96. Hope Cove to Aveton Gifford

It rained all night and I was expecting rain today. Instead, I find a grey, moist blanket of fog covering the higher ground of the coast and blurring the boundary between sea and sky. Inner and Outer Hope are no longer sleepy, seaside villages. They have been transformed into mysterious outposts where smugglers and sea monsters lurk in the mists.

Hope Cove in the mist, Ruth's coastal Walk, Devon.

I leave Outer Hope behind and Continue reading

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95. Salcombe to Bolt Tail

Today, I am apprehensive about the walk ahead. Looking at the OS map, it seems a wild and desolate area. One section of cliff is actually called ‘Slippery Point’.

Ferry stop, Salcombe. Ruth walking the South West Coast path in Devon

I should have walked this stretch of coast when I was last down in Devon during August. But it was raining that day – a relentless downpour from low hanging grey clouds. Maybe, I said, it’s not a good idea to walk along Slippery Point in the rain? My husband called me a wimp. I told him I was simply being sensible.

This year has been the wettest on record and Devon has suffered from terrible floods. I thought I would never get walking again. But today, although the sun is not exactly shining, the clouds are high and white and no rain is forecast. Continue reading

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94. Start Point to Salcombe

lighthouse guide, Start Point light house - Ruth's coastal walk, DevonI walk down the track towards the Start Point lighthouse. It’s a long way – at least a mile. The track is so narrow, I have to stand pressed against a wall to allow a small car to pass. The occupants roll down the window to apologise. They explain they are going to open up the lighthouse.

The photo is of Hugh – not the lighthouse keeper – Hugh is the lighthouse tour guide.

I don’t usually stop to look around the various buildings I come across on my walks, but with plenty of time for my walk today, I reckon I can easily spare 20 minutes or so.

Over an hour later Continue reading

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93. Strete, Slapton Sands to Start Point

Blackpool Sands, Ruth's walk around the coast. Devon.I leave Blackpool Sands and walk along the coast road.

The road is busy with traffic and I am pleased, after a short distance, to see a signpost for the South West Coast Path – but less pleased when I realise that, annoyingly, the ‘coast’ path heads inland. I puff and pant as I climb up a steep hill.  But at the top there is a great view back down to the beach.

The path follows an old bridle way and then takes me through open fields and over the top of the hill.

I meet a couple walking from the opposite direction. They look at my walking poles Continue reading

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92. Dartmouth to Blackpool Sands

I walk along the pretty quayside of Dartmouth Harbour – crowded with visitors on this lovely August day.  Passing the ferry slipway (where I arrived on my previous day of walking), I head up the steep road leading southwards and out of town. This will take me towards the mouth of the river and the open sea beyond.
Dartmouth Harbour, Ruth's coastal walk. Continue reading

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91. Brixham to Kingswear to Dartmouth

signpost and knotweed, Ruth walking the coast, Brixham, DevonMy husband drops me off at the ‘secret’ car park at Sharkham Point. ‘Is that Japanese Knotweed?’ I look at the green shrubs growing around the signpost and take photographs for later identification.

[It turns out that, YES, this is the awful Japanese Knotweed and it’s running rampant in this area. Maybe this is why the car park isn’t signposted?]

The first section of the walk  is through fields, high above the sea. I meet a few gentlemen, out walking their dogs on this sunny Sunday morning. Continue reading

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