87. Dawlish Warren to Dawlish

I have just arrived at my hotel in Torquay. It is late afternoon and it is raining.  I check the latest BBC weather forecast on my iPad. There is a promise of a few bright spells this evening.

From Torquay station I catch a train up to Dawlish Warren. I deliberately choose a seat on the right hand side of the train, nearest the sea. After an inland deviation via Newton Abbot, there is an amazing view through the rain streaks on the train window. The track follows Brunel’s original route and runs alongside the coast between Teignmouth and Dawlish Warren. The tide is high and fierce. Grey waves crash up against the sea wall as the train trundles by, just a few feet from the lashing spray. Continue reading

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86. Ladram Bay to Exmouth

It is the morning of the Bank Holiday Monday of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee weekend. My husband drops me off at the end of a short track – a place called Monk’s Wall on the map – and I walk down a footpath towards Ladram Bay.

flat walking, Ruth's Coastal Walk, Chiselbury Bay, Devon

To my right I can see the peninsula of land that stretches south-west from here to the mouth of the River Otter. And I can see the footpath of the South West Coast walk, undulating gently along the edge of green fields. No steep up-and-downs? Excellent! This looks like an easy day of walking. Continue reading

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85. Branscombe to Ladram Bay

Branscombe Beach, Ruth's coastal walk through Devon.We drive down the narrow winding lanes to Branscombe Mouth. It is the Sunday of the Queen’s Jubilee weekend. The sky is overcast but better than yesterday (when I arrived in the gloom of late afternoon and only got as far as putting on my boots before the rain started and I abandoned the walk).

Today I am hoping to make good progress and have lunch in Sidmouth with a final destination of Budleigh Salterton. Continue reading

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84. Lyme Regis to Seaton to Branscombe

Lyme Regis beautiful in sunshine. And I am feeling better; still no appetite, but definitely improved compared to yesterday.

Lyme Regis, from west end, Ruth on her walk around the coast.

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83. Charmouth to Lyme Regis

I have been unwell this week with a temp, muscle pains, queasiness and diarrhoea. I am not telling you this to elicit sympathy. I am explaining why today’s walk is so short. Continue reading

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82. Cogden Beach to Charmouth

I walk down from Cogden car park to the shore, where I stand and look back along the shingle strip. This leads in an unbroken sweep, first hugging the shore and then separating to form the bank of Chesil Beach, all the way back to Portland, three days walking behind me.

At Cogden Beach the pebbles end and sand begins.
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81. East Fleet to Cogden Beach

old Church, East Fleet, Ruth walking the South West Coast Path East Fleet is a tiny village but it has both a ‘New Church’ and a ‘Old Church’. I start my walk from the ‘Old Church’, a delightful little chapel set just back from the coastline.

I stop in the churchyard to take photos and, in this deserted setting, I nearly have a heart attack when a woman walks through the gate carrying polished brass candlesticks. My surprise is only matched by hers.
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80. Chesil Beach to Fleet

We drive from Weymouth towards Portland where we are booked into the Queen Anne for bed and breakfast. The car in front has a sticker in the rear window that reads “Keep Portland weird”. I sympathise with the sentiment. Continue reading

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79 Portland Bill and Chesil Beach

There is a number 210 bus that goes from Dorchester all the way to the tip of Portland (but not quite as far as Portland Bill). A man at the bus stop tells me (in a Dorset accent) that he always takes the 210 because it is cheaper than the number 1. I ask him if he is going to Portland too – but he is only going into Weymouth town centre.

“Here it comes,” says my friendly bus stop neighbour. It is just as well he is guiding me. I expected an express coach. The bus is old and I would have missed the small card with the number “210” pasted at the bottom of the front windscreen. Continue reading

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78. Weymouth to Portland

I walk along the promenade, through Weymouth. The sun is shining and it promises to be another hot March day. It is a Monday morning and the beach is comparatively empty.

Weymouth Esplanade and beach in morning, Ruth walking the South West Coast Path Continue reading

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