90. Paignton to Brixham

Last time I was here, the rain was pouring down. Today, Paignton looks lovely in the sunshine. Paignton, Ruths coast walk around the UK, Devon

I walk past the pier and pick up the South West Coast Path, heading southwards around Tor Bay.

polite notice, Torbay, Ruth on her coastal walkClimbing up a slope, I walk around Roundham Head, where there is a green space and children are playing rounders – or it might be baseball, I’m not sure.

It is a sad facet of modern life, but I don’t like to take photographs of children playing, unless they are part of a larger scene. Instead, I take a photo of this very polite notice on a shed.

The tide is high and Continue reading

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89. Torquay to Paignton

I am trying to return to the Petit Tor Point area of Torquay, where I plan to find the footpath that goes down to Oddicombe Beach. A friendly local man advises me to catch the bus to Petitor Road and shows me where the bus will stop. I suddenly realise that ‘Petitor Road’ is so-named because it leads to ‘Petit Tor Point’.

wooded walk to Oddicombe Beach, South West Coast Path, Ruth in DevonFrom the end of Petitor Road, I find the footpath and begin making my way down to the shore. I stroll across meadows and find myself in woods again, on a path winding around the coast.

For some reason, I anticipated today’s walk would be along the promenade of a busy seaside resort and, expecting concrete and paving, I left my walking poles behind. I didn’t expect to find myself in such a natural landscape.

Then I come across a wire fence. What is this? A railway track? No, it’s a cliff lift. Or Babbacombe Cliff Railway, as it’s called officially. Continue reading

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88. Dawlish through Teignmouth to Torquay

What a difference a day makes. Today, when I arrive at Dawlish station, the sun is shining!

Holcombe from Dawlish, Ruth on the South West Coast Path

Ahead I can see green fields, gentle waves, red cliffs and strange rock formations. In the far, blue distance is a low headland and beyond this an island. (Later, I realise this is  Hope’s Ness, marking the beginning of the bay of Torbay. The island is Ore Stone) Continue reading

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87. Dawlish Warren to Dawlish

I have just arrived at my hotel in Torquay. It is late afternoon and it is raining.  I check the latest BBC weather forecast on my iPad. There is a promise of a few bright spells this evening.

From Torquay station I catch a train up to Dawlish Warren. I deliberately choose a seat on the right hand side of the train, nearest the sea. After an inland deviation via Newton Abbot, there is an amazing view through the rain streaks on the train window. The track follows Brunel’s original route and runs alongside the coast between Teignmouth and Dawlish Warren. The tide is high and fierce. Grey waves crash up against the sea wall as the train trundles by, just a few feet from the lashing spray. Continue reading

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86. Ladram Bay to Exmouth

It is the morning of the Bank Holiday Monday of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee weekend. My husband drops me off at the end of a short track – a place called Monk’s Wall on the map – and I walk down a footpath towards Ladram Bay.

flat walking, Ruth's Coastal Walk, Chiselbury Bay, Devon

To my right I can see the peninsula of land that stretches south-west from here to the mouth of the River Otter. And I can see the footpath of the South West Coast walk, undulating gently along the edge of green fields. No steep up-and-downs? Excellent! This looks like an easy day of walking. Continue reading

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85. Branscombe to Ladram Bay

Branscombe Beach, Ruth's coastal walk through Devon.We drive down the narrow winding lanes to Branscombe Mouth. It is the Sunday of the Queen’s Jubilee weekend. The sky is overcast but better than yesterday (when I arrived in the gloom of late afternoon and only got as far as putting on my boots before the rain started and I abandoned the walk).

Today I am hoping to make good progress and have lunch in Sidmouth with a final destination of Budleigh Salterton. Continue reading

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84. Lyme Regis to Seaton to Branscombe

Lyme Regis beautiful in sunshine. And I am feeling better; still no appetite, but definitely improved compared to yesterday.

Lyme Regis, from west end, Ruth on her walk around the coast.

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83. Charmouth to Lyme Regis

I have been unwell this week with a temp, muscle pains, queasiness and diarrhoea. I am not telling you this to elicit sympathy. I am explaining why today’s walk is so short. Continue reading

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82. Cogden Beach to Charmouth

I walk down from Cogden car park to the shore, where I stand and look back along the shingle strip. This leads in an unbroken sweep, first hugging the shore and then separating to form the bank of Chesil Beach, all the way back to Portland, three days walking behind me.

At Cogden Beach the pebbles end and sand begins.
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81. East Fleet to Cogden Beach

old Church, East Fleet, Ruth walking the South West Coast Path East Fleet is a tiny village but it has both a ‘New Church’ and a ‘Old Church’. I start my walk from the ‘Old Church’, a delightful little chapel set just back from the coastline.

I stop in the churchyard to take photos and, in this deserted setting, I nearly have a heart attack when a woman walks through the gate carrying polished brass candlesticks. My surprise is only matched by hers.
Continue reading

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