Tag Archives: walking

24. Bradwell to Tillingham Marshes

Around the Dengie Peninsula, there is a coastal path stretching from Bradwell Power Station to Burnham on Crouch; seventeen miles of coastal footpath, with no villages, no towns and no marinas; along which the only building of any significance is St Peter’s Chapel. A powerful atmosphere fills the place ….

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23. Maylandsea to Bradwell

The wind is wild and the sea stormy. I meet a venemous, slithery thing. And I grow angry at people who obstruct my right to walk along the sea wall. Continue reading

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22. Maldon to Maylandsea

Here is Byrhtnoth, the Earldorman of Essex, bold and fierce, looking out to sea. I see Bradwell Power Station ahead of me and realise am making little progress. I worry about snakes and twisted ankles …. then my phone dies. Continue reading

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21. Tollesbury to Maldon

This walk starts under wide, empty skies and follows a meandering, sea bank. What is the story behind the lonely bench in this isolated spot? Later, I meet a semi-naked man, friendly sheep and excited children on bicycles.
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Stage 20. Old Hall Marshes to Tollesbury

Bradwell Power Station looms menacingly on the horizon. There is the threat of rain and strange colour-changing light. My trousers look like an insect graveyard – sticky webs with spiders, flies, butterflies, beetles, ladybirds… Little flies extract their revenge on behalf of the insect kingdom, attacking my upper arms. Continue reading

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Stage 19. West Mersea to Peldon to Old Hall Farm

This is a day of highs and lows – and of unanswered questions. What has caused the death of all these little crabs? Why am I forced to play “chicken” with uncoming cars? And what is the purpose of that large, menacing building in the distance? Continue reading

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Stage 18. Jaywick to West Mersea

“Ferry,” says a male voice.
“Can you come and pick us up please?” I ask. “There are two of us and a bike.”
After a moment’s hesitation, the man says in a somewhat irritated tone, “I am not a taxi service you know.” Continue reading

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Stage 17. Kirby-le-Soken to Walton, Frinton, Clacton and Jaywick

This is a glorious day of hot sun, blue sky, warm sea – and noisy crowds. I am disappointed by an ugly pier and this part of Essex lives up to my expectations – although not necessarily in a good way …. Continue reading

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Stage 16. Harwich to Kirby-le-Soken

The heat is relentless – more like Spain than England – and the air is hot and close around my face. My chest feels tight and I am having trouble breathing. I hear the sound of horse hooves behind me and have to force myself not to stop. There is horsey breath coming over my shoulder…. Continue reading

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Stage 15. Boyton Marshes, Bawdsey to Felixstowe

I pick up the bat. Feeling a bit of a fool, I wave it wildly. Who am I waving it at? Where is the ferry? “You didn’t think it was going to work – waving the bat – did you?” I am not expecting much of Felixstowe and am pleasantly surprised. Continue reading

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