Tag Archives: coastal

141(am) Instow, Barnstaple, Chivenor

I pass rusting wrecks and abandoned jetties. A sign tells me it is a “Wildlife Refuge” – although I see no sign of any life, wild or otherwise. Inland there are wet areas and clumps of grass. And a marching army of poles.
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140(am) Westwood Ho! to Appledore

The sea gives way to mud flats and a sign. WARNING. The tidal waters and mudflats on this estuary can be dangerous if not treated with respect.
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30. Fobbing to Tilbury

“Or, if you walk into the village, you may be able to catch a bus.”
“I am not allowed to travel by bus,” I tell him.
If he thinks this is a little odd, he is too polite to say so.
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29. Southend to Basildon to Fobbing

I hesitate outside the dark mouth of the gloomy alleyway. For the first time on my whole journey, I feel very uneasy. I am not concerned about tides, or mud, or even snakes. It is the thought of ….. Continue reading

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27. Rochford to Great Wakering

My husband joins me and we discover a minature railway and enjoy a grand view of Barling Tip. I acquire – and lose – a walking stick, get sprayed by stinking marsh water and nearly step on a “snake”. Continue reading

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26. Burnham on Crouch to Rochford

I am planning to make good progress over the next few days. Who knows, I might even manage to leave Essex. With 350 miles of coastline, Essex has the longest coastline in England. I was not aware of this fact before I encountered its miles of estuaries ….
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25. Tillingham Marshes to Burnham on Crouch

The Dengie peninsula is flat, marshy and has a coastal walk 17 miles in length. I suffer my first serious bout of boredom …. then I see a mirage, a strangely decorated gate and discover an enormous mushroom. Continue reading

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22. Maldon to Maylandsea

Here is Byrhtnoth, the Earldorman of Essex, bold and fierce, looking out to sea. I see Bradwell Power Station ahead of me and realise am making little progress. I worry about snakes and twisted ankles …. then my phone dies. Continue reading

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21. Tollesbury to Maldon

This walk starts under wide, empty skies and follows a meandering, sea bank. What is the story behind the lonely bench in this isolated spot? Later, I meet a semi-naked man, friendly sheep and excited children on bicycles.
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Stage 20. Old Hall Marshes to Tollesbury

Bradwell Power Station looms menacingly on the horizon. There is the threat of rain and strange colour-changing light. My trousers look like an insect graveyard – sticky webs with spiders, flies, butterflies, beetles, ladybirds… Little flies extract their revenge on behalf of the insect kingdom, attacking my upper arms. Continue reading

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