Tag Archives: british

30. Fobbing to Tilbury

“Or, if you walk into the village, you may be able to catch a bus.”
“I am not allowed to travel by bus,” I tell him.
If he thinks this is a little odd, he is too polite to say so.
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28. Great Wakering to Southend to Leigh-on-Sea

Southend is full of sunlight but I am surrounded by warning signs. I am forbidden from walking along the beach – first by Ministry of Defence warning signs and later by an oil spill. I scratch my insect bites and have some close encounters with blackberry bushes, before becoming trapped in deep, dark stairwell …. Continue reading

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27. Rochford to Great Wakering

My husband joins me and we discover a minature railway and enjoy a grand view of Barling Tip. I acquire – and lose – a walking stick, get sprayed by stinking marsh water and nearly step on a “snake”. Continue reading

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26. Burnham on Crouch to Rochford

I am planning to make good progress over the next few days. Who knows, I might even manage to leave Essex. With 350 miles of coastline, Essex has the longest coastline in England. I was not aware of this fact before I encountered its miles of estuaries ….
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25. Tillingham Marshes to Burnham on Crouch

The Dengie peninsula is flat, marshy and has a coastal walk 17 miles in length. I suffer my first serious bout of boredom …. then I see a mirage, a strangely decorated gate and discover an enormous mushroom. Continue reading

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22. Maldon to Maylandsea

Here is Byrhtnoth, the Earldorman of Essex, bold and fierce, looking out to sea. I see Bradwell Power Station ahead of me and realise am making little progress. I worry about snakes and twisted ankles …. then my phone dies. Continue reading

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21. Tollesbury to Maldon

This walk starts under wide, empty skies and follows a meandering, sea bank. What is the story behind the lonely bench in this isolated spot? Later, I meet a semi-naked man, friendly sheep and excited children on bicycles.
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Stage 20. Old Hall Marshes to Tollesbury

Bradwell Power Station looms menacingly on the horizon. There is the threat of rain and strange colour-changing light. My trousers look like an insect graveyard – sticky webs with spiders, flies, butterflies, beetles, ladybirds… Little flies extract their revenge on behalf of the insect kingdom, attacking my upper arms. Continue reading

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Stage 19. West Mersea to Peldon to Old Hall Farm

This is a day of highs and lows – and of unanswered questions. What has caused the death of all these little crabs? Why am I forced to play “chicken” with uncoming cars? And what is the purpose of that large, menacing building in the distance? Continue reading

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Stage 18. Jaywick to West Mersea

“Ferry,” says a male voice.
“Can you come and pick us up please?” I ask. “There are two of us and a bike.”
After a moment’s hesitation, the man says in a somewhat irritated tone, “I am not a taxi service you know.” Continue reading

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