28. Great Wakering to Southend to Leigh-on-Sea

No Entry sign, Shoeburyness. Ruth's coastal walk in EssexFirst task of the morning is to ring the MoD hotline to find out what sections of the coastal route are open and what sections are closed for artillery practice.

The person on the end of the line is a bit vague about geography but, unfortunately, I discover the coastal path near Foulness is closed today. It will open tomorrow, we are informed, but that is too late; I need to walk today. I resign myself to an inland detour.

The weather is glorious. The sun is hot in a cloudless sky. There is a heat haze on the horizon.

MoD warning sign, Ruth's coastal walk, Shoeburyness I set off along a road from Samuel’s Corner and find a footpath that runs along the outside of the MoD fence. Dire warning signs forbid entry to this dangerous territory. I hear no shots and see no smoke. Whether any real shooting takes place today, I don’t know. Interestingly, the MoD territory is guarded by the private company, CinetiQ. Am I the only person to find this odd?

The footpath ends and I am forced to follow the road to Shoeburyness. Workmen are out mowing the roadside verges. I meet cyclists, walkers and the inevitable dogs.

Today I am scratching my upper arms, following the mosquito attack I suffered near Potton Island yesterday. They managed to land seven bites before I could deploy the repellent spray. I don’t mind mosquitoes biting me. I am happy to share my blood – in small amounts anyway. What I do mind is the itching they inflict.

Yellow sign on Shoeburyness beach, Ruths coastal walk, Essex As soon as I can, I head towards the sea, skirting round fenced off MoD property, and reach the beginning of Shoeburyness beach. There is a long breakwater, stretching out to sea, marking the barrier between prohibited, MoD beach and the beach where public access is allowed. Signs forbid entry to the public beach unless a yellow diamond sign is being displayed. I am relieved to see the yellow sign is up.

The sea is calm with long, lazy waves; just rippling the surface. The sky is blue. The sun is warm.

A young woman and child walk gingerly across the pebbly beach. They appear relaxed together but the child maintains a certain distance from the woman, who is very young. I suspect, from her age and from the child’s slight shyness, she is a nanny or au pair. Shoeburyness beach, near MoD barrier, Ruth's coastal walk

The beach is flanked by an open green space. There are people walking, cycling, jogging – and some people just sitting and enjoying the morning sun. I walk along, enjoying the weather and the pleasant, relaxed feel of this pretty, green area. Shoeburyness beach, Essex, Ruth's walk round the coast

At the end of the beach is a large derelict property, in the process of being renovated and with a tall fence of boards around it. My way along the sea wall is interrupted by this building site. But after the long inland detour I have just made, I am determined to follow the coastal path.

So, I ignore “No Entry” signs, and climb over some barriers, to follow the crumbling sea wall as best I can. The wall runs along the bottom of a steep bank, with the building looming ominously above me. I have to skirt around thorny blackberry bushes – hanging over the wall in places – by clambering up and down the dangerously steep, grass bank to find a way through.

I come to a place where the wall is interrupted by a stairwell of old stone steps, leading down to the beach from the abandoned property above. Without thinking, I jump down into this stairwell and, for one awful moment, I find myself trapped.

The stairwell is dark and damp; and smells of decaying mud. I am in a narrow enclosure with tall walls on either side. There is no foothold to help me clamber up onto the opposite wall. The steps leading upwards are barred by tall, rusted gates, interwoven with barbed wire and overhung with blackberry bushes. Below the tide is in and there is no shore to walk along; the steps end in the sea.

I try to climb back up the wall I have just jumped down from. No success. Then, I try to hoist myself onto the wall by standing with my back to it and levering myself up with my arms. This does not work. I am not strong enough.

I fight back panic.

Beginning to feel desperate, I turn and face the wall. Placing my hands on the top, I force myself upwards, throwing myself up and forward onto the wall as I kick my legs up behind me. It may not be elegant, but it works. I get my chest onto the wall and, squirming like a worm, I manage to wriggle forwards until most of my torso is balanced on top. Crawling forwards, I manage to get my knees up.

Panic over. I am back up on the wall.

With thumping heart, I continue onwards. Now I reach a small section of beach, where a few people sitting on the sea wall look startled to see me emerging, somewhat disheveled and sweaty from the blackberry bushes. I stick to the proper walkway now, as it follows the sea wall. There are some old fortifications and a cycle route.

Eventually I reach the coastguard lookout point at Shoebury Ness. From here onwards, there is a wide promenade with a lovely, new, cycle route. There are beach huts, many in use, and people out enjoying the glorious sunshine.

But the beach is empty. Everyone is sitting on the promenade. There is nobody on the beach. Strange.

Oil clean up crew, Essex. Ruth's coastal walk. Then I notice warning signs. There has been an oil spill. Men in dungarees have been cleaning the beach and there is a collection of large, blue plastic bags. A local photographer has arrived (from the local paper?) and is assembling the men in order to take their photo. I use the opportunity to snap a cheeky shot. The workmen see me, behind the official photographer, and smile at me.

I continue walking and can see Southend Pier, stretching out into the sea, in the distance. It seems like an enormously long centipede. Beyond this is the far side of the Thames Estuary. I am at the mouth of this mighty river. Just visible in the milky haze on the horizon, I can see the shapes of an industrial landscape – towers, refinery tanks and cranes – pale ghosts. One day, I will be walking along that distant shore.

This walk along the promenade is hot and tiring. I want to walk on the softer sand of the beach, but the warning signs are still in place and I would regret getting oil on my boots, so I stick to the concrete path, running next to the cycle route that stretches the length of the promenade. Suddenly, I am surprised to see my husband cycling towards me. We agree we are both in need of an early lunch and he suggest a pub a short distance ahead.

The pub is Edwardian and has many of its original features. The “special” is roast beef and yorkshire pudding. But the sun is shining and we are too hot for this. I have a ploughman’s and hubby has a steak sandwich. We sit outside in the shade of an umbrella and watch the world go by.

Southend Pier, Ruth's coastal walk. Essex.

Later, I walk along the promenade, passing the end of Southend Pier. This is the longest pleasure pier in the world and it stretches across the sea, with its far end almost lost from view in the haze. I stop to watch the small train that runs up and down. By this time, the sky has become overcast and the light has faded. This change in the weather only lasts for an hour or so, but spoils the opportunity for good photographs of the pier.

Southend Cliff Lift, Ruth's coastal walk.
Further along is one of those wonderful cliff lifts, carrying people up and down the steep slope. I can remember seeing one in Scarborough, many years ago. Later I learn this lift was only recently re-opened, after a renovation project.

I have to confess to being very surprised by Southend. It is a beautiful place.

As I continue on my walk, Southend merges into Westcliff-on-Sea.

The tide is out. Children are digging in the mud with sticks. School is out and parents are strolling with their children in the afternoon sunshine. Sunlight reflects off the shore and the flat sea; there is light everywhere. This is beautiful.
Light on the beach, Westcliffe, Essex. Ruth's coastal walk.

Then the promenade ends and I follow a footpath running along the railway line. A student has decorated a boring wall with a series of graffiti images: part of a college project.
Art work on wall, Southend-on-Sea, Essex - Ruth walks the coast.
The path is narrow and occasional widens into jetties belonging to various yacht clubs. This is a busy path. People are coming home from work and school. Walkers jostle with pushchairs and cyclists.

I arrive in Leigh-on-Sea. I wasn’t expecting this – what a wonderful place! I wander down narrow streets with quaint houses and interesting shops. There are cafes with decking; and early diners are enjoying drinks in the evening sunshine, overlooking the estuary.

Then I reach the small, railway station. It is nearly five in the afternoon and commuters are arriving back, leaving the station and heading towards the town on foot, or disappearing into the car park. Here I meet my husband.

View from Leigh-on-Sea, Essex. Ruth's coastal walk
We drive back into Southend and we stop at the top of a hill to enjoy the view over the estuary. The sun is low and the light is golden. To the East is the mouth of the Thames, open to the sea, with large ships, pale in the haze, gliding across the water. Ahead of us, due South, is gleaming mud with the white shapes of moored boats. Beyond the mud is the Thames itself and, on the distant bank, we can see the ghostly outline of refineries and industrial complexes – pale and romantic in the setting sun. To the West is Two-tree Island and beyond the bright light of the sun shining on distant estuary mud and water.

A perfect end to a beautiful day……

Vital stats: miles walked = 10

About Ruth Livingstone

Walker, writer, photographer, blogger, doctor, woman, etc.
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18 Responses to 28. Great Wakering to Southend to Leigh-on-Sea

  1. David Cotton says:

    Well done on reaching the Thames, Ruth! Have you any idea where you’re going to be crossing it? Will it be at the Tilbury->Gravesend ferry, or will you be going further upstream?

    Thanks for the blog, I’m really enjoying reading about your adventures.

    • ruthl says:

      Hi David

      Yes, I was very pleased to reach the Thames at last.

      I crossed the Thames at Tilbury on the little ferry. I know when you did the walk, you walked all the way down into London itself. I was too impatient and wanted to get into Kent.

      Glad you are enjoying the blog. I am behind with the updates!
      Of course, I write far too much ….

  2. Pingback: Stage 39. Faversham to Whitstable | Ruth's Coastal Walk (UK)

  3. Sue Willis (London 2012 BT Storyteller) says:

    Hi Ruth,
    so thrilled to have read your blog. As I ‘tweeted’ – storytelling at it’s best. So refreshing to see my beloved home town and oh so familiar places through another’s eyes. Hope to meet you at some point to compare stories of the BT kind.
    Sue Willis

  4. Hi Sue, would love to meet up. I have lost a little of my enthusiasm for Olympic Storytelling as I must confess to not being particularly interested in the topics presented to us. Shame on me! I am much more interested in the wider ‘sporting’ life of ordinary people. No doubt things will pick up as the Olympics approach.

    • Sue Willis (London 2012 BT Storyteller) says:

      Don’t be put off. I think the ‘challenges’ are just to get people started. I love the idea of the sporting life of ordinary people – looking forward to reading your next piece.
      All the best to you,

  5. wingclipped says:

    We started our coastal undertaking last weekend and I have just found and read your blog with interest. We started at Great Wakering and were lucky enough to get access to the MOD land which is open on Sundays. This weekend we continue our journey into Southend. I suspect we shan’t get any further as the kids will refuse to be dragged away from the rollercoasters at the pier!

    I have struggled with the formatting and layout of photos in my blog – yours are fantastic!

    Good luck in your endeavours! I shall follow with interest…

  6. Gert says:

    Qinetiq was privatised out of part of the former Defence Evaluation and Research Agency, so perhaps not so odd as it may seem. As far as I can gather from the internet, they run the Shoeburyness site jointly

  7. Gert says:

    I’ve been reading your blog from the start but don’t know Norfolk and have visited Suffolk only fleetingly some years ago. So it’s nice I found a reason to comment on the post where you hit more familiar territory. I lived in Westcliff for 18 months in my early twenties but was far too young to appreciate it other than for beach front fish-and-chips!

  8. tony mead says:

    hi again i am surprised on reaching leigh you dont mention the cockle sheds there you can purchase delicious fresh crustations of all sorts along with cockles ect there is a shed there owned by the osbourns who are distantly related to me 3 of there cockle boats were in the evacuation of dunkirk all 3 made it back to kent after ferrying troops out from the beach then picking up a last load and bringing them back i cant recall the name of the boat off hand but it had engine trouble and was being towed across the mouth of the thames in thick fog back to leigh when it hit a mine and all were lost . to the best of my knowledge the osbourns still own and work the other 2 boats

    • I don’t remember the cockle sheds, but I do remember seeing people eating and drinking. It looked a lovely place. The Dunkirk story is fascinating. How terribly sad to lose the boat and all those people. So brave to make the crossing in those tiny boats. Thank you for sharing your recollections.

  9. Karen White says:

    My heart was thumping when you were down in that stairwell!
    It’s many years since I’ve seen Southend Pier (other than on Jamie’s and Jimmy’s Friday Night Feast), I think I was about 14 so that is 46 years ago! Your panoramic photo is lovely.

  10. Mike Otoka says:

    Hi Ruth, love your blog. We managed to do the Shoeburyness MOD walk yesterday. It was a 8 mile walk from Cupids Corner (Great Wakering) to Little Wakering via Little Wakering creek…we parked at the Castle Inn where you lunched. Weather was great & it was a really interesting walk, particularly seeing the Wakering stairs & the start to the Broomway.
    I’ve walked most of Southern & Eastern England’s coast, from Minehead through to Woolwich, London & then onto the Thames Path to the source at Kemble. (Although I still need to fill in the gap between Littlehampton & South Haven) And then on the north bank of the Thames, we’ve walked from Rainham Marshes to Lowestoft including the rivers Stour & Orwell & we are planning to walk between Lowestoft & Cromer , where we finished the Norfolk coast path.
    I would like to complete walking the whole of the UK coast, but due to the need to take mid breaks to walk these further afield routes, I guess that they will have to wait until I retire xmas 2021.
    Incidentally, my walking mate claims that we met you on one of your walks…trouble is he can’t recall where or when …Hahaha.
    I hope that you & your family are well.

    • Hi Mike, wow, you’ve covered a lot of ground with your walking. Fantastic! On this stretch, I’m glad to hear you didn’t have to divert around the MOD land. Definitely you should attempt the whole coast when you retire. You’ve done the hardest part, as nothing beats the north coast of the SWCP for sheer physical difficulty. I wonder where I met your friend?!

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