29. Southend to Basildon to Fobbing

[Note: since I wrote this post, this section of the path has become much easier to navigate. Please see the update at the end of the blog.]

You may not think that Basildon would feature on a coastal walk. But, as I consult the map, I realise that is where my route must take me.

Walk from Southend towards Basildon, Ruth's coastal walk, Essex From Southend, I walk along a well trodden footpath, following the coastal bank that runs along the side of Benfleet Creek. This creek leads inland to Basildon. On my left I pass Two Tree Island, a great bird spotting place, and then Canvey Island.

The path becomes a wide track, gravel to start with and then grass. The walking is easy and pleasant. I meet dog walkers and some serious backpacking walkers with maps dangling from their necks in waterproof pouches. There is no need for the waterproof pouches; the sky is overcast but the clouds are light in colour and there is no hint of rain.

Wild geese and ducks fly past me, flying low across the marshes and heading up the creek. I take a photograph, panning the camera to keep the geese in focus while blurring the landscape.
Geese flying up Benfleet Creek, Ruths coast walk in Essex

Across the creek, on Canvey Island, I see residential buildings and some industrial buildings beyond.

View of castle on ridge, and train. Ruth's coastal walk, Essex. To my right is a good view across marshes and fields to the railway line. Frequent trains rumble past – carrying commuters, shoppers and sightseers. Beyond the railway, the land rises to become a ridge. I see the ruins of a castle.

As the creek narrows, the path runs through a pretty marina, where small sailing ships are moored.

The public right of way is not very clearly signed, but crosses the marina and emerges along the bank at a point where there is a barrier across the creek. The barrier is part of the flood defence system and, just beyond, a very busy road crosses the river. The change from countryside to urban environment is sudden and takes me by surprise. This is South Benfleet.

Marina, Benfleet creek, Ruth's coastal walk.

I cross the road and continue along the bank of the narrow creek. The water looks dirty – complete with floating plastic bags and sunken shopping trolleys; more like a river than a creek. Although the footpath continues alongside the water, I can see from the map that it comes to a dead-end further along. I need to find another route. Turning inland, I pass under the railway line and find a nicely paved footpath that runs along the edge of playing fields, hugging the north side of the railway.

Overgrown path, Benfleet. Ruth's coastal walk, Essex. Beyond the playing fields I see, with some dismay, that the footpath disappears into a narrow alleyway, running behind garden fences and bordered on the other side by overgrown bushes marking the edge of the railway. The path is narrow, two to three feet wide at most. The fencing is in various stages of decay. The bushes arch across from the gardens, meeting the overgrown growth on the railway side and forming a dark green tunnel.

I hesitate outside the dark mouth of this gloomy path. I can see dog excrement, plastic bags, discarded crisp bags and cigarette butts. A few yards inside and there is a bend, beyond which the path disappears into an even darker tunnel.

For the first time on my whole journey, I feel very uneasy. For a change, I am not concerned about tides, or mud, or even snakes. It is the thought of meeting other human beings in this unpleasant, dark place that worries me.

Well, I have to continue.

So I walk, as quickly as I can, into that dark, green, gloom.

After a few bends the ground is cleaner – less dog excrement and less litter – but the path becomes more overgrown. There are nettles and brambles reaching across the narrow walkway. I wish I had a stick. But at least I am making progress. And I meet nobody.

Emerging, blinking, into open land, I am relieved at having passed unscathed from the gloomy alleyway. I find myself in a field. How wonderful to be out in the open, in a familiar, rural environment.

Then I see the horses. I am nervous of horses. Or should I say, I was nervous of horses. In my relief at my safe passage through the alley, I greet them like old friends. They wander up to see if I carry anything interesting in my rucksack and then, disappointed, wander away again.

Horses, Ruths coastal walk

At the end of the field, I cross broken styles and find a track leading under a busy road, the A130. There are a number of footpaths to choose from. My plan is to arrive in Basildon for lunch. I try to find a path with a signpost for Basildon, but can’t find one. Eventually, I choose a path that runs along the righthand side of the railway track. This should be the right way, according to my map. I am a little confused because this path is signposted as leading to a church, not to Basildon.

St Margaret's Church, Bowers Gifford, Essex, Ruth's coastal walk After a mile or so, the footpath emerges into a small churchyard. The sun comes out and I find myself in a wonderful place. St Margaret’s Church is very ancient, full of history and nestles in a beautiful, peaceful setting. I sit on a bench, in the sunshine, and have a drink and snack. What a fantastic place this is.

From the church, the footpath continues along the railway line, through fields with more horses and behind the back gardens of more residential houses.

I can hear the roar of traffic. This must be Basildon.

Emerging onto the A13, I am surrounded by noisy roads, flyovers, slip roads and rushing cars. Telephoning my husband, we find each other in an underpass. He has been unable to find a pub nearby and, therefore, we head for the large M of a MacDonald’s sign. On the way we spot a small cafe. We sit inside and have a good lunch.

After lunch, finding the footpath again is difficult. I walk back and forwards along the road near the station. Finally, I realise the path runs through a yard. There are parked lorries and vans. I feel distinctly out-of-place, marching through this yard with my walking gear on.

Crossing the railway line, Basildon, into Vange marshes. Now the path winds through wasteland. Signs tell me this is not public land, please keep to the footpath. The belly of a large flyover rises to one side of me. There are workmen up on a platform, inspecting the underside of the flyover. I wonder what they are looking for. Cracks? We always assume these structures are safe and solid when we pass over them in our cars.

Crossing the railway line, I emerge into a large open space. This is a huge nature reserve, spread across Vange Marshes, the marshy land at the end of an estuary leading up to the edge of Basildon and finishing here. There are public footpaths crossing the marshes and free right to roam.

Vange Marshes, Essex. Ruth's coastal walk. I stick to the edge of this marshy area, following the footpath that runs around the perimeter. As I continue further, the footpath signs become increasingly faded and the styles become increasingly decrepid. Eventually, the path disappears altogether – and I wade through long grass, following what I hope is the general line of the footpath.

Worried about snakes, I put on my gaiters. These make my legs hot, but will protect me from adder bites – I hope.

Finally, I reach a track. Good. This is on my map. Now I am looking for a footpath that crosses farmland, leading to Fobbing Marshes. I can see no sign of the footpath I am searching for, although another footpath is marked, leading along the track and then into marshland – but this is not the one I want.

Walking courteously around the edge of the field, I find the point at the far side of the field where the footpath should emerge. Here there is a stream running through a deep ditch and a rotten plank is laid between the banks and gives me a means of crossing the water. I assume the presence of this wobbly “bridge” means I am on the footpath. But there are no signs indicating that my assumption is right.

I continue along more ploughed fields, heading south and keeping parallel to the ridge of high ground I see running to my right. I can see the church spire of Fobbing church, my final destination, ahead of me. I can even hear the church bells ringing. But the footpath, so clearly marked on the map, is still invisible to me. The fields are intersected with long hedges and ditches. Walking in a straight line is impossible. Growing tired, I become reluctant to walk farther than absolutely necessary.

Now I see a tractor and trailer coming up behind, heading towards me. There is a young man driving it. My spirits lift. He will be able to tell me where the footpath is.

As he draws near, I wave to him. He waves cheerily back – and passes me. Disappointed, I set off after him. He stops the tractor ahead and maneuvers it around so it is at right angles to me. Ah, he is waiting for me to catch up. I break into a jog.

But I made a false assumption. He hasn’t seen me running up behind him. Now the tractor sets off at high-speed across the field and a spray of brown material comes from the back of the trailer.

Manure! He is spreading manure!

The brown stuff is blown by the wind and heads straight towards me. Luckily it is dry powder, not wet mulch, but it coats my sweaty face and arms in a brown dust. Yuck!

I watch the tractor disappearing to the far end of the long field and make a decision. I have had enough of agriculture. I have had enough of tramping around trying to find a non-existent footpath. I have just had enough.

Following the edge of the field, I turn westwards and make for the ridge of high land. I can see residential houses here and the flash of a car passing along a road that runs along the top. Luckily I find a track with a bar gate at the end. The last part of the walk is easier, albeit uphill, and I can climb over the gate into the road.

Oil Refinery across Fobbing Marshes, Ruth's coastal walk, Essex The walk along the pavement is easy. There are great views over the valley and the marshes, with the distant structure of the oil refinery in the distance providing a dramatic backdrop to the open green ground in front of it.

I stop and take some photographs. Unfortunately, the light is poor. I notice very clear signposting of footpaths from this road to the West, but not to the East – where my path was supposed to run.

The church bells are still ringing and this joyful sound becomes louder and louder as I walk, until, with relief, I arrive at Fobbing church. My husband’s car is parked by the church, but the car is empty. I can see his car alarm is flashing, but the noise – if there is one – is drowned by the sounds of the bells pealing.

I walk round one side of the church to the entrance porch. The is no sign of activity outside the church; only the noise of the bells inside. No sign of my husband either. I try to phone him but, although I know he has answered, we cannot hear each other because of the noise. I text him. “I am at the church”. He texts back, “So am I.” I continue walking round. Still no sign of him. Are we both circling the church in the same direction trying to find each other?

Eventually I text him “Stand still!”. Walking around the corner of the church again, I find him.

My husband has had a problem with his car alarm. It sounds continually as we drive off, passing a police car on the way. Luckily the noise of the faulty alarm is drowned by the pealing bells.

Later I try to report the problem with the footpath.

Who is responsible? The footpath crosses from Essex into an area controlled by Thurrock Council. As the point at which I lost path is just inside the Thurrock area, I report it to Thurrock council and give them a map reference. Unfortunately, they take the map reference as a single point, rather than an area – and deny responsibility as this point lies in an area for which Essex County Council is responsible.

Perhaps I should have pursued this, but life is too short and I have walking to do ….

Vital stats = ?
For the first time, my Trip Journal app lets me down. It reports a 5.8 mile walk. I know I have walked farther this this. So out comes my piece of string and the OS map.
According to the map, miles walked = 10

September 2014 Update: Basildon to Fobbing

This section is now covered by the new Thames Estuary Path. I haven’t been back to walk the route, but would expect it to be well signposted.

Poor Basildon gets bypassed altogether!

About Ruth Livingstone

Walker, writer, photographer, blogger, doctor, woman, etc.
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9 Responses to 29. Southend to Basildon to Fobbing

  1. Chris Black says:

    Good Luck Ruth!

    Hope you don’t mind us writing about you on our site.

    You could try reporting the footpath problem via http://www.fixmystreet.com/

    • ruthl says:

      Hi Chris
      Thank you for the link to your site. What a good idea and an excellent site!
      Not sure how to enter a footpath, but will give it a go.

  2. wingclipped says:

    Ruth –

    Having just completed Benfleet to Fobbing today I can tell you the footpaths just north of Fobbing are no better! Like you, we had to guide ourselves by the tower of Fobbing’s church, whilst trying to follow indistinct paths and look out for hard-to-spot signposts. We made it, but it was hard work!


  3. David L says:

    There are now a few marker posts on the crossing from 722864 to the track junction 723847, which gave trouble to you and Peter Caton. It’s not easy, because no one walks it, and because the farmer has ploughed up the field at the start. If, anyone is using this, or Peter Caton’s book, as a source of information, as I was, the following works.

    Go to the corner at 718864. A track leaves, heading SW. It isn’t an official footpath but there are no threatening signs. It crosses a ditch then turns E. Follow this, over soft ground, and you’ll find yourself between two metal bridges on the official ‘path’. (Walking across the ploughed field might get you to the first of these, for considerably more effort). Turn right (S) and cross the second bridge. Immediately afterwards there is a white marker post, giving a line S, following an overgrow hedge-cum ditch, mostly on cross-field tracks. After half a mile there is a short section where the ditch is sealed over and the ‘path’ jumps the from the E side to the W. There are two marker posts here, one either side,about 15 yards apart.

    You then continue S, gradually turned W by the turning hedge-cum-ditch. At present (Aug 2013) this involves wading through knee-deep barley. Just when you become convinced that you are engaged in criminal damage, you are disabused of the notion by finding a further marker post and a single plank bridge over the ditch. The line is then a couple of degrees W of S passing a shorter marker post hidden in the dry top of a ditch. This puts you into a large field, with the farmer’s tracks running south. These make the going easy and, following straight S, you hit 724847, where the clear track runs W to Fobbing, hitting the road about 1/2 mile north of the church (I assume this is where you came out, Ruth). After a few yards you path the official end of the crossing, with a green footpath sign.

    • Hi David, thank you very much for taking the time to post these detailed instructions. I am sure others will find them useful. It is always disappointing to find unloved and un-walked footpaths. I guess it’s a vicious cycle. The harder it is to see the path, the less people are inclined to walk it, the harder it becomes to see the path… etc. Anyway. Thank you.

  4. GJ says:

    Hello Ruth

    Doing stretches of the coast myself – nothing so ambitious as you, more pottering and pootling around. Have just done the Thames Estuary Path. Wishful thinking about the signposting unfortunately – there are large gaps between them and getting from Benfleet to Stanford-le-Hope needed an OS map and some lucky guessing. Apparently you can download an app for directions I think. On the section from Stanford to East Tilbury the path is extremely muddy (this was after a dry spell a couple of weeks back) until they get round to putting some gravel on it. I met someone a little further along looking at bank voles who warned me that further on it was submerged. ‘Erm how submerged’. ‘Oh only a couple of feet’. He must have thought I was wearing invisible waders. He helpfully added as an afterthought though that there was a bone-dry path in the field that ran alongside it. Which there was.
    Good luck with the rest of the walk.

    • Oh, that is disappointing to hear. You would think they would have got the signage in place to encourage walkers to use the route 😦 Glad to hear you managed to complete the Thames Estuary Path. Thanks for the info.

  5. Linda says:

    Hi , tried the Stanford Warf to Pitsea walk today. Fine until I crossed new road for port and paths disappeared . Picked up a path that got me to fobbing and then had No luck getting to Pitsea ,had to walk down fobbing road in the end and down old A13 . A good walk 12 miles. Any advice would be good.

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