[This walk was completed on Saturday 13th May, 2023]

Torrisdale Bay is an immense tract of sand, and it takes me some time to reach the actual sea. Look at those lovely waves!

My Garmin has died, but my map suggests that I might be able to walk all the way round to Ivernaver by following the shoreline. There is just one area where it is unclear if I can get through. But, I’m determined to try.

I turn the ‘corner’ and start heading eastwards, up an estuary. Oh, there is Bettyhill, dead ahead. So close! And I think I can see my hotel on the hill – it is the white building to the far right of the photo below.

Yes, I am staying in a hotel tonight. Much as I love my Perky van, the nearby campsite did not seem very inviting, and I am looking foward to a proper bed in a warm room.

I walk beside the waves. The air is bright, but there is a chilly wind blowing off the sea, and it reminds me there is not much between here and the Arctic circle – just a mere 600 miles of steel-cold water. I am actually closer to the Arctic than I am to London.

I’ve learnt that my Canon camera can take selfies, and I can’t resist a quick snap. I might be wearing my sun hat, but I need my thick fleece jacket too. There is a reason why Scotland’s magnificent beaches are not crowded with tourists. It’s cold.

I think I’m alone on the empty sands, until I spot a couple of figures in the water. Surfers. Brrrr.

They seem to have finished surfing for the day, and are trudging eastwards in the same direction as me. Good. They must know a safe route back to Bettyhill. I can follow them…

… oh, I see they are swimming across the mouth of the estuary. That is not exactly the kind of route I had in mind! Never mind, I’ll just have to find my own way.

This is where the River Naver joins the sea. The far bank looks so close – as does my hotel. I can see a rubber dinghy pulled up on the shore and a man either getting ready to set off, or packing up after a trip on the water – it’s not clear. I think of hailing him and asking for a lift across the water…

… but I am much too timid. And, anyway, it would be cheating. Yes, I’m allowed to use ferries, but they have to be public vessels, not private boats.

I’m walking southwards now, and the going is good. Look at all this sand! Ahead is a gap in the ridge of hills, and there appears to be a path coming down. I wonder if that is the official path to Invernaver, the one on the sign post that I saw this morning?

Still worrying about not being able to get through, I take heart when I see footprints in the sand. A man and a child. And they only go in one direction with no returning prints… so you must be able to get through.

The shoreline narrows and the sand disappears. This was the section I was worried about. Will I be able to find a way along the shore? My map indicates there are hut circles and cairns on the higher land just inland, but I’m concentrating too hard on the shoreline to think of going to explore. Luckily, I can still see footprints, and even the vague outline of a path among the rocks and stones.

I come to the end of the rocky section, and there appears to be another wide, sandy beach ahead of me. Rather disappointingly, the sand turns out to be deceiving – more like gloopy mud.

I stick close to the water, where the surface is firmer.

Past the sand/mud, and the shoreline narrows again, becoming stony once more. The path seems to have disappeared.. but.. there is a bridge ahead of me. I must be getting closer to Invernaver.

A row of cottages appear on my right. What a fabulous place to live – even if it is quite a trek across sticky mud to get to the real beach.

I draw level with a stables. There are horses in the fields nearby and horse poo on the shore. Now, that was a hazard I wasn’t expecting.

Nearly reached the bridge. It’s an ugly, functional thing with no charm at all. But at least it offers a dry route across the water. Now, I only have to find a way up there…

… which turns out to be easy. There is a grassy slope running up to the bridge, and an easily opened gate at the top. And here I am, adventure over, about to cross the ugly bridge at Invernaver.

My van is actually parked just on the other side of the bridge – you can see it on the left hand side of the photo above. But I’m going to continue along the road on foot and head up to Bettyhill.

The name “Bettyhill” intrigued me when I first plotted my route on the map. The “hill” part is obvious, as I plod up the slope. But, who is Betty?

Look at this sweet little cottage with a painted tin roof.

The views from the top of the hill are worth the climb. I love these twin mini haystacks. And what a wonderful view. I can see the sand I walked along earlier and the mouth of Torrisdale Bay. Looks like the tide is coming in.

Here is my hotel. But, before I check in, I must go down the hill again and collect my van.

My walking boots have become rather pongy after a couple of weeks of walking, so I pop into some nearby stores and ask them if they have any deoderant for walking boots. (In the van, I would just leave my boots outside, under the vehicle, to air themselves. But I don’t want to stink my hotel room out!)

The lady behind the counter doesn’t have any of the deoderant spray, but she suggests Fabreze. I buy some and us it… but now my boots are both pongy with foot-odour AND smell of Fabreze. It is not a good combination.

I leave my boots stinking in the van, change into clean walking shoes, and check into the hotel.

My room wasn’t cheap, but the campsite in Bettyhill looked most unappealing, and this room has a wonderful view, fresh towels, and an ensuite shower room. Utter bliss!

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Note: Checking my boots the next morning, I’m pleased to report that Fabreze in stinking walking boots DOES work, after all!

Miles walked today = 5 miles (guestimate)

Total distance around coast = Total around coast = 4,976.5 miles

Route (first part in blue, second in red):

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