233 Y Felinheli, Bangor to Llanfair PG

I spend a restless night, coughing and sweating, and in the morning realise I have no appetite for breakfast. I also realise something else. My terrible fatigue yesterday was not due to lack of willpower, nor lack of fitness, nor laziness. I’m ill. Whew! What a relief.

Fortified with paracetamol, I manage to find the bus stop where I ended my last walk prematurely, and resume marching along the B4547. I pass the gates to a grand estate.

01a Vaynol Estatate, Ruth walking the B4547, Bangor

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232 Caernarfon to Y Felinheli

I arrive in Caernarfon at 3pm and drive around, looking for a parking space. It’s taken me longer than I anticipated to travel here from Lincolnshire and I am feeling both irritated and unusually fatigued. Eventually, I park in the car park just beyond the Victoria Dock.

leaving Caernarfon, Ruth's walk along Wales Coast Path

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231 Llandwrog to Caernarfon

The morning is dull with a cold east wind. I stand on the beach at Dinas Dinlle and look back at the three peaks of Yr Eifl. Still so close. Despite walking for many hours yesterday I seem to have made little progress.

01 Yr Eifl from Dinas Dinlle, Ruth walking the Wales Coast Path

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230 Trefor to Llandwrog

I park near the bus stop in Trefor. One of Yr Eifl’s peaks looms above the village and from this vantage point it is obvious how quarrying has resculpted the landscape.

01 Yr Eifl above Trefor, Ruth's coastal walk, Wales

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229 Nefyn to Trefor

When I reach Nefyn, I realise the tide is high and the beach is covered. I don’t want to risk road-walking again, so I decide to follow the official Llyn Coast Path even though it meanders inland. The path gets off to an unpromising start along the edge of a modern housing estate.

01 coast path out of Nefyn, Ruth walking in Wales

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228 Morfa to Nefyn

I wake up to the sound of wind and rain, slamming into the window of my B&B bedroom. The BBC weather site says the rain should clear by 11 am. So, I linger over breakfast and take a scenic route up the coast to the village of Nefyn, where I park my car. It’s 10:30 and the rain has stopped. The BBC is always right!

Next comes a 2 mile road walk from Nefyn back to the golf course at Morfa.

01 Nefyn golf course, Ruth walking the coast, Pen Llyn, Wales

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227 Porthor to Morfa

My B&B host drops me off at the bottom of a quiet track, and I cut across a muddy yard to reach the coast path. It’s a windy day. Porth Ferin is deserted and, since the tide is high, its little beach is covered with water.

01 Porth Ferin, Ruth walking the coast, Lleyn Peninsula

I head north eastwards along a newly created section of the coastal path, where recently erected fences keep me hemmed into a narrow strip of land above the sea. Continue reading

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226 Aberdaron to Porthor

My B&B host provides a drop off and pick up service for walkers. This is excellent news, because I’m fed up with trying – and failing – to catch buses. So it should be an uneventful journey to Aberdaron and the start of my walk.

01 Aberdaron, Ruth setting off to walk the Wales Coast Path

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225 Hell’s Mouth to Aberdaron

The third rule of my coastal walk is this: I must start each walk at the point where I stopped the coastal section of my previous walk. This means I have to get back to the car park at Hell’s Mouth. Continue reading

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224 Abersoch to Hell’s Mouth

I park in the deserted beach car park at Porth Neigwl, otherwise known as Hell’s Mouth. On this sunny morning the name seems incongruous.

car park, Hell's Mouth, Ruth in Wales

Buses are scarce in this part of the Llyn Peninsula, and I walk 1/2 mile inland to the tiny village of Llanengan, in order to catch the first of only two buses a day into Abersoch, where I plan to re-start my coastal walk. Continue reading

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