140(am) Westwood Ho! to Appledore

Posted on April 16, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

Westward Ho! looks nicer in the sunshine. The tide is low and there is a mass of rocky shore, with sand beyond.

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There was a queue of elderly people waiting at the bus station in Barnstaple. I nearly got on the number 21A, but that would only take me as far as Appledore. When plain number 21 arrived, nobody in the queue moved. Strange. The bus was nearly empty and I bagged a prime seat (top deck, front row) but felt uneasy when we pulled away leaving everyone else behind. Did they know something I didn’t? Continue reading →

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139b Peppercombe to Westwood Ho!

Posted on March 16, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

Standing above Peppercombe, we should have a wonderful view along the coast, but we had to imagine it. Mist. Damn mist!

x01 looking over Peppercombe, Ruth's coastal walk, to Westward Ho

Looking at the grey beach below, I ask my husband if it is possible to walk along the shore, avoiding the ups and downs of the cliffs. It seems a long time since I walked along a beach, back in Bude. Continue reading →

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139a Clovelly to Buck’s Mills

Posted on March 16, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

It is early and the visitors’ centre above Clovelly is closed. I walk down and find the stepped entrance to my secret, sunken, Wrinkleberry Lane. Next to the lane, a large gate marks the continuation of the South West Coast Path.

Hobby Drive entrance, Ruth's coastal walk, Clovelly, North Devon

Constructed in the early 19th Century as a scenic carriage drive, The Hobby Drive is a three-mile track. It starts on the east side of Clovelly and winds around the coast, before joining the A39 a short distance to the west of Buck’s Mill. Continue reading →

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138b Clovelly

Posted on March 15, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

It is late afternoon when I leave the pub. Clovelly is set deep at the bottom of a  north-facing valley and is being swallowed by dark shadows as the sun sinks lower in the sky. [The bad light makes photography disappointing and, later, I have to use photo-editing software to create usable images.]

The first thing I do is stroll to the end of the pier and look back across the little harbour and its pebble beach.

Clovelly Harbour, Ruth Livingstone

My husband stands outside the pub, bright in his yellow jacket.  Continue reading →

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138 Hartland Point to Clovelly

Posted on March 15, 2014 by Ruth Livingstone

car park guardian, Hartland Point, Ruth on her coastal walk, North DevonWe arrive at Hartland Point and find the car park open and the kiosk manned. The attendant wants us to pay, but my husband is only dropping me off- and so we park on the road and I lace up my boots, grab my rucksack and prepare for another day of walking.

Several cars swing into the car park while I am doing this. Passengers for the helicopter trip over to Lundy Island. I see one woman with a rucksack and binoculars and, for a moment, I envy her and wish I was going too.

But I have walking to do. I add Lundy Island to my list of places to return to if and when I ever finish this round-the-coast walk. Continue reading →

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137 Hartland Quay to Hartland Point

Posted on November 24, 2013 by Ruth Livingstone

Today I plan to walk the short distance from Hartland Quay to Hartland Point, before lunch and a long journey home. Only 3 miles.

01 Ruth Livingstone setting off Hartland Quay

It is a glorious day. The car park at Hartland Quay is deserted, apart from a few chirpy birds. And plenty of DANGER signs. Continue reading →

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136b Marsland Mouth to Hartland Quay

Posted on November 23, 2013 by Ruth Livingstone

10c Devon signpost, Marsland Mouth, Ruth walking the coastal patThe  valley of Marsland Mouth is remote and beautiful, with little tumbling waterfalls among green slopes. But the low sun creates problems with shadows and I am unable to take a decent photograph. Shame.

At 12:40pm, I cross the footbridge over the pretty stream and pass into Devon.

The climb up the far slope of the valley is as hard as I feared. Continue reading →

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136a Morwenstow to Marsland Mouth

Posted on November 23, 2013 by Ruth Livingstone

I walk down the track from Morwenstow towards the sea, knowing I have 6 hours of good daylight in which to walk the 9 miles to Hartland Quay. I should make it easily, but I won’t have time for a pub lunch. In fact, there is nowhere to stop for lunch along this deserted stretch of coast.

01 Morwenstow, track to coast, Ruth on her coastal walk around the UK

The sun is slanting low across the yellow-green fields. The sea is the colour of slate. The sight of this weirdly coloured landscape is both stimulating and rather unnerving. Continue reading →

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135b Bude Bay to Morwenstow

Posted on November 22, 2013 by Ruth Livingstone

I am a coward. Leaving Northcott Mouth and heading up Bucket Hill, I begin worrying. How difficult will this walk be? Will I get caught in the dark? I have less than 5 hours of daylight left. But, with only 6 miles to go, this really should not be a problem.

16 Sandy Mouth, Ruth on the South West Coast Path

My map tells me I have gone over Menachurch Point and then past Westpark Pit and Sarshall’s Pit (what does ‘pit’ mean?). The path has some ups and downs, but nothing too bad. I begin to gain in confidence.

Looking ahead along the shore, I see the soft cliffs have crumbled away in places. Ahead is a gap where long lines of rocks give way to a short strip of sandy beach. That must be Sandy Mouth. Continue reading →

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135a Bude to Northcott Mouth

Posted on November 22, 2013 by Ruth Livingstone

Standing on the cliff at Upton, I look back along yesterday’s walk. I thought I had left good old Cambeak behind, but there he is, pointing his gnarly finger out into the sea. And the farthest promontory must be Tintagel. I believe I can even see the Camelot Castle Hotel.

01 sunrise and Tintagel in distance, Ruth on her coast walk

But I am heading northwards, past Bude and onwards. The logical place to aim for is Hartland Quay. But that is 15 miles from Bude and 17 miles from my starting point at Upton. Too far. Continue reading →

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