124a – Portreath to St Agnes Head

I set off early from Portreath. The beach is deserted and I can look back at the headland I walked over yesterday. It doesn’t seem as steep as I remembered.

Portreath, Cornwall, Ruth's coastal walk

I follow a road that winds as it climbs up the hill, losing the sea view. I am looking forward to branching off on the coast path, but I soon come across a common problem. Continue reading

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123 Hayle to Portreath

The bus from Portreath to Hayle Towans is a double-decker today and I want to sit in the front seat at the top, to enjoy the views. Frustratingly a man and his child are in one seat and a couple are in the other. Damn. But then I recognise the woman in the couple: an old work colleague from Lincolnshire! Coincidence. We chat all the way to Hayle Towans and neither of us gets to see much of the view.

It has rained overnight and the morning is dull. Hayle Towans beach (3 miles of sand) stretches out in front of me, curving around to Godrevy Point and Godrevy Island with its lighthouse.

Hayle Towans 3 mile beach, Ruth's coastal walk

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122 – St Ives to Hayle

I am staying in Portreath and catch the Greyhound Express to St Ives. The ride is wonderful with extensive sea views most of the way. There are only three of us on the bus until we hit the holiday camp at Hayle Towans. After that, it is standing room only.

The tiny bus station at St Ives is perched on a hill and the bus requires careful manoeuvring to get in and out. There is a grand view of St Ives harbour.
St Ives, Ruth's coastal walk around the UKI head down and eastwards, away from the harbour and towards the railway station. From Continue reading

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121 – St Ives (cont)

The first beach I come to in St Ives is called Porthmeor Beach. I stop and have a cup of tea and a cream scone in a café overlooking the beach. I opt for a booth out of the sun. It is 4:30 pm but still blazing hot.

Porthmeor Beach, Ruth walking the SWCP, Cornwall

Artists come to St Ives Continue reading

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121 Gurnard’s Head to St Ives

The number 508 bus should take me back to the Gurnard Head Hotel. Unfortunately, Western Greyhound does not run a service on Sundays. (Why ever not?!) So I have an expensive taxi-ride from Penzance to Treen.

Too excited to look at my map properly, I head off along the nearest footpath, only to find I am nowhere near the sea and about to rejoin the main road. Wrong path! Never mind I take a photo of the hotel across the fields.

 Gurnards Head Hotel, Ruth coastal walk, Cornwall

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120 Botallack to Gurnard’s Head

I catch the number 10 bus from Penzance to Botallack. The driver corrects my pronunciation. It’s BOW-ta-lack, not Bo-TA-lack.

From the village I try to take a footpath towards the coast but soon end up lost in a field and have to double back, eventually finding the same boring gravel track I walked along yesterday.
 gravel track from Botallack, Ruth's coastal walk
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119 Land’s End to Botallack

People say that Land’s End is a disappointing place – dominated by a large hotel and shopping complex, and an even larger car park. Yes, I thought the Lizard was more attractive, both in ambience and scenery. But Land’s End is Land’s End and will always have a special significance for long-distance walkers.

I take a photograph of my husband standing in front of the hotel. Then he sets off on the long drive back to Lincolnshire and I start walking, on my own, heading for Botallack.
Lands End, Ruth's hubby, coastal walk Continue reading

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118 Lamorna to Porthcurno to Land’s End

Lamorna Cove is, I am sure, a beautiful place. But this morning it is shrouded in fog. I look back across the cove, trying to make out the route that I walked yesterday. The path winds treacherously above the shoreline. In the distance is the craggy mass of Carn-du.

Looking back to Carn-du, Lamorna Cove, Ruth's coastal walk Continue reading

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117 Perranuthnoe, Penzance to Lamorna Cove

I set off from Perranuthnoe in brilliant sunshine. My plan for today is to walk through Penzance and Mousehole and to finish my walk in Lamorna Cove. It is a long way. I’m using an Explorer OS Map – more detailed than my usual Landranger Map – and the distance seems huge. I’m nervous already.

Ruth setting off from Perranuthnoe, coastal walking, Cornwall Continue reading

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116 Porthleven to Praa Sands

The BBC weather forecast today is ‘wet’. The BBC rarely lets us down.

But it is still dry when I start walking along the side of Porthleven Harbour. I stop to take photographs and to allow a group of walkers go on ahead of me. There are around 10 of them and they seem to have an official leader. I rather hoped they would be heading the other way, but no, they were walking the same way as me. I prefer walking alone, so I hang back to get some distance between us.

Porthleven, Ruth's coastal walk, Cornwall Continue reading

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