138b Clovelly

It is late afternoon when I leave the pub. Clovelly is set deep at the bottom of a  north-facing valley and is being swallowed by dark shadows as the sun sinks lower in the sky. [The bad light makes photography disappointing and, later, I have to use photo-editing software to create usable images.]

The first thing I do is stroll to the end of the pier and look back across the little harbour and its pebble beach.

Clovelly Harbour, Ruth Livingstone

My husband stands outside the pub, bright in his yellow jacket.  Continue reading

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138 Hartland Point to Clovelly

 car park guardian, Hartland Point, Ruth on her coastal walk, North DevonWe arrive at Hartland Point and find the car park open and the kiosk manned. The attendant wants us to pay, but my husband is only dropping me off- and so we park on the road and I lace up my boots, grab my rucksack and prepare for another day of walking.

Several cars swing into the car park while I am doing this. Passengers for the helicopter trip over to Lundy Island. I see one woman with a rucksack and binoculars and, for a moment, I envy her and wish I was going too.

But I have walking to do. I add Lundy Island to my list of places to return to if and when I ever finish this round-the-coast walk. Continue reading

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137 Hartland Quay to Hartland Point

Today I plan to walk the short distance from Hartland Quay to Hartland Point, before lunch and a long journey home. Only 3 miles.

01 Ruth Livingstone setting off Hartland Quay

It is a glorious day. The car park at Hartland Quay is deserted, apart from a few chirpy birds. And plenty of DANGER signs. Continue reading

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136b Marsland Mouth to Hartland Quay

10c Devon signpost, Marsland Mouth, Ruth walking the coastal patThe  valley of Marsland Mouth is remote and beautiful, with little tumbling waterfalls among green slopes. But the low sun creates problems with shadows and I am unable to take a decent photograph. Shame.

At 12:40pm, I cross the footbridge over the pretty stream and pass into Devon.

The climb up the far slope of the valley is as hard as I feared. Continue reading

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136a Morwenstow to Marsland Mouth

I walk down the track from Morwenstow towards the sea, knowing I have 6 hours of good daylight in which to walk the 9 miles to Hartland Quay. I should make it easily, but I won’t have time for a pub lunch. In fact, there is nowhere to stop for lunch along this deserted stretch of coast.

01 Morwenstow, track to coast, Ruth on her coastal walk around the UK

The sun is slanting low across the yellow-green fields. The sea is the colour of slate. The sight of this weirdly coloured landscape is both stimulating and rather unnerving. Continue reading

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135b Bude Bay to Morwenstow

I am a coward. Leaving Northcott Mouth and heading up Bucket Hill, I begin worrying. How difficult will this walk be? Will I get caught in the dark? I have less than 5 hours of daylight left. But, with only 6 miles to go, this really should not be a problem.

16 Sandy Mouth, Ruth on the South West Coast Path

My map tells me I have gone over Menachurch Point and then past Westpark Pit and Sarshall’s Pit (what does ‘pit’ mean?). The path has some ups and downs, but nothing too bad. I begin to gain in confidence.

Looking ahead along the shore, I see the soft cliffs have crumbled away in places. Ahead is a gap where long lines of rocks give way to a short strip of sandy beach. That must be Sandy Mouth. Continue reading

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135a Bude to Northcott Mouth

Standing on the cliff at Upton, I look back along yesterday’s walk. I thought I had left good old Cambeak behind, but there he is, pointing his gnarly finger out into the sea. And the farthest promontory must be Tintagel. I believe I can even see the Camelot Castle Hotel.

01 sunrise and Tintagel in distance, Ruth on her coast walk

But I am heading northwards, past Bude and onwards. The logical place to aim for is Hartland Quay. But that is 15 miles from Bude and 17 miles from my starting point at Upton. Too far. Continue reading

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134 Crackington Haven to Bude

It is November and I am back at Crackington Haven. It’s still windy but not as windy as the last time I was here. Today the beach is deserted. Across the water I can see the humpy finger of Cambeak and the mound where I once sat to eat a bar of chocolate.

Crackington Haven to Cambeak, Ruth's coastal walk in Cornwall
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133b Boscastle to Crackington Haven

After lunch I walk up the side of Boscastle Harbour, following the South West Coast Path and heading for Penally Point. The tide is out and the water in the harbour is low. But the sun is shining and this has brought many people out for a stroll.

Boscastle Harbour, Ruth's coast walking

I climb steadily up the slope of Penally Hill, and pause to take a photograph of Boscastle village below.

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133a Tintagel to Boscastle

After my lazy day yesterday, I feel full of energy and am keen to make good progress along the coast from Tintagel. My first stop is Boscastle, for lunch.

Ahead is an easy amble along Smith’s Cliff. The promontory of Willapark is ahead with the two rocks, The Sisters, just visible on the other side.

01 walking towards Willapark, from Tintagel, Ruth's coast walk

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