[This walk took place on the 12th August 2019]
I spend the morning sheltering from the rain in my van, before driving up from Applecross, and parking at a beautiful viewpoint just south of Cuaig.
Pull on my waterproof trousers and zip up my raincoat. Hop onto Scooty, and sail down the road to the parking spot at Sand, where I hide Scooty in a clearing surrounded by dripping bracken.
[This walk was completed on the 11th August 2019]
I am determined to cover a good distance today, and make up for some of the ‘wasted walking’ I’ve been doing along dead-end paths at the bottom of the Applecross peninsula.
But, the narrow, twisty single-track road along the coast is hard to navigate. When I pull into a car park, believing I have travelled miles, I discover I’m only half way to my intended destination.
Decide I’ll do the walk in two sections, and set off cycling back the way I’ve come. Leave my Scooty bike beside one of the newly planted trees along the shore road in Applecross.
[This walk was completed on the 10th August 2019]
After lunch, I follow the footpath back to the shore of Poll Creadha bay. Joining the road again, I head left towards Rubadubdub – sorry, Aird-Dhubh. On the way, I turn off to visit a slipway, where a not-very-necessary sign warns me my non-existent car might fall into the water.
[This walk was completed on the 10th August 2019]
I drive from the Applecross campsite down to Loch Toscaig, and the pier at the end of the road. The pier is somewhat underwhelming, as it is, basically, a large car park!
[This walk took place on the 8th August 2019]
I’ve reached Applecross and, following my rules, I should just turn northwards and follow the coastal road up to Sheildaig and Torridon. Instead, I decide to walk to the most southernmost point I can reach along footpaths, to the base of the Applecross peninsula, and work my way northwards from there.
I leave my van in the campsite, and ride my Scooty down the road to Toscaig, and chain him up at the beginning of today’s walk.
[This walk was completed on the 7th August 2019]
I shrug my rucksack back on, and turn away from the Bealach na Bà viewpoint. Despite the lack of an actual view, I do feel an intense sense of achievement. This particular section of the walk has been worrying me for ages, but I’ve conquered the pass and one of the most difficult parts of the N500 route.
Onwards. Down into the mist.
[This walk was completed on the 7th Aug 2019]
I stand beside the village shop in Kishorn, and watch the minibus disappear down the road with a mix of excitement and trepidation. No backing out now. I’m committed to walking up the Applecross road, and over the infamous Bealach na Bà pass.
[This walk was completed on the 6th August 2019.]
When I reach Loch Reraig on my return walk, I don’t retrace my footsteps and follow the footpath signed towards Leacanashie. Instead, I keep going straight along the track, and soon cross over the Reraig Burn via a low bridge.
I stand on the bridge and take a photograph. The burn meanders in lazy curves to join the waters of Loch Reraig. So beautiful.
[This walk was completed on the 6th August 2019.]
Today, I plan to follow a Core Path that links the dead-end road at Ardaneaskan with the dead-end road at Achintraid. It’s going to be a there-and-back walk. The final descent to Achintraid is supposed to be tricky – involving a slippery rock and a piece of rope!
I decide to start my walk at the difficult end, and walk the “wrong” way first, just to make sure I can get through.
In fact, the climb out of Achintraid is much easier than I expect, and the views from the top are wonderful. That’s Loch Kishorn below. Over on the far hills I can see a road winding up a steep valley.
[This walk took place on 5th August 2019.]
It’s raining by the time I pack up my lunch and leave Strome Castle. I walk back to the T junction, and turn right towards Lochcarron. It’s not wet enough to pull on my waterproofs. Put my head down. March through the drizzle.
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The bull appeared in front of the gate… about two metres away.
I trust cows, but I know when they turn…
The cow managed to lift me off the ground and into the air.
