369am Kilninver to Kilmore

I get off the bus at the Kilninver bus stop, and try not to think about the walk ahead. There’s going to be a lot of road walking today.

01 bus stop at Kilninver, Ruth's coast walk around Scotland

It’s a miracle I managed to get here at all because, when I caught the bus from Oban, I had a ‘senior moment’. Continue reading

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368 Arduaine to Kilmelford (filling the gap)

Today is Sunday, and there are no buses running. And, today I must go back and fill in the gap – the section I missed out yesterday – between Arduaine and Kilmelford. Basically, it’s a 5 mile trudge along the A816.

01 A816 road to Oban, Ruth's coastal walk, Argyll

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367pm Kilmelford to Kilninver

The track I’m following is one of Scotland’s core paths. As I’ve discovered, core paths aren’t always well maintained and in some cases are completely unwalkable. But this is a good one.

Over a rise, and here’s a better view over Seil, and I even get a glimpse of Seil Sound.

51 view over Seil Sound, Ruth's walk around Scotland's coast

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367am Kilmelford to Kilninver

It’s Saturday, and there’s a limited bus service. I park in a village called Kilninver and catch the bus from there to Kilmelford. I’m the only passenger. The bus driver tells me how a section of this road (the busy A816) collapsed recently, and talks about the chaos it caused.

Kilmelford is not a large village, but it has a shop and a pub, and – most importantly – a bus stop.

01 bus stop at Kimelford, Ruth's coastal walk around Scotland

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366pm Ardfern to Arduane

I leave the pub and cross over the road to a café, where I order tea and cake.  By the time I set off for the rest of my walk, it’s the end of the school day, and the primary school is buzzing as parents arrive to collect their children.

26 Ardfern school, Ruth's coastal walk, Scotland

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366am Carnassarie Castle to Ardfern

I’m back at Carnassarie Castle, where I spent the night in the castle’s deserted car park, sleeping with my new and wonderful best friend – The Beast – a sprightly 16-year-old campervan. I plan an early start and brew myself a cup of morning tea, feeling remarkably perky…

Ruth drinking breakfast tea in the new Beast

… despite the fact I got very little sleep last night. Continue reading

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365pm Kilmartin to Carnassarie Castle

I’m walking along a wooded slope, surrounded by beautiful native trees, scented by a carpet of bluebells. Walking doesn’t get much better than this.

40 forest walk to Kilmartin, Ruth's coastal hike, Scotland

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365am Crinan to Kilmartin

I catch the bus to Cairnbaan – or as close to Cairnbaan as I can get – and walk the rest of the way along a beautiful lane, shaded by trees and lined by bluebells and buttercups.

01 lane near Crinan Canal, Ruth's coastal walk, Scotland

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364pm Bellanoch to Crinan

Back on the boring and dusty road, in the heat, I’m dying for this part of my walk to end.

27 track to Crinan, Ruth Livingstone hiking the coast of Argyll, Scotland

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364am Bellanoch to Carsaig

I catch the bus from Bellanoch and, as usual, I’m the only passenger. The driver recognises me from yesterday. “I’m not going to Achnamara today,” he says. I explain that’s OK, because I want to be dropped off at the Barnluasgan monument. He’s not sure where I mean, but says he’ll drop me off wherever I want.

So, I choose to get off at the Forestry Commission car park, the place where I saw the camper van yesterday.

01 car park, Loch Coille a Bharra, Ruth's coastal walk, Argyll

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