409 Glen Arnisdale to Corran

[This walk was completed on the 17th June, 2019]

Last night I drove round to Corran, on the shore of Loch Hourn, where I’m staying in a cottage. This morning, I wake to rain falling in sheets from a menacing sky. Luckily, I’ve brought a good book to read and I make myself cosy on the sofa. Around 3pm, the rain eases to a dull drizzle. Come on – I mustn’t waste the whole day.

Grab my umbrella, and head out.

It’s a wet slog up Glen Arnisdale to reach the bridge and the point where I stopped yesterday’s walk. The sign reminds me I must cross at my own risk and strictly without a horse.

01 bridge with cow warning, Ruth walking to Corran, Scotland

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408 Kinlochhourn to Glen Arnisdale

[This walk was completed on the 16th June, 2019]

Just up the road from my B&B at Lochhournhead, a track leads off to the left and crosses over the Lochourn River. A signpost tells me that Corran is only 9 miles away. It may only be 9 miles by foot, but it’s a good 70 miles if you have to drive round by road!

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407pm Barrisdale to Kinlochhourn

[This walk was completed on the 15th June, 2019]

I follow the path up the hill and away from Barrisdale. I’m sorry to leave this beautiful bay behind, with its pretty little islands and dramatic backdrop of mountains..

30 view of ruined building and Loch Hourn, Ruth walking the coast of Knoydart, Scotland

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407am Barrisdale

[This walk was started on the 15th June 2019]

I’m staying in a B&B in Kinlochhourn, which must be the most remote B&B on mainland Britain – reached after driving 7 miles out of Invergarry and then turning off along 20+ miles of a dead-end, single-track road. I was very pleased and relieved to find this place existed, and I’m booked in for 3 nights.

Kinlochhourn B and B.jpg

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406 (part 2) Inverie to Barrisdale

[This walk was completed on the 21st June, 2019]

In the morning, I spread my belongings across the bunkhouse bed and begin to pack my rucksack.

Waterproof trousers, my Garmin, a compass, a whistle, emergency bivvy bag, my personal locator beacon, sun block, midge spray, blister plasters, and enough water and snacks to see me through a day and a night. (Although, I sincerely hope the ‘night’ bit won’t be necessary!) Continue reading

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406 (part 1) Inverie to Barrisdale

[My journey to Inverie was made on 20th June 2019. I must confess I messed up the logistics of this trip, and ended up doing this section after I’d completed the rest of Knoydart. But I’ve placed this post at the beginning, as if I’d done it first, which was what I intended.]

I return to Scotland after 3 weeks, feeling rather anxious, because I’m about to tackle the Knoydart peninsula, and I know it will probably be the most difficult section of my walk so far. (It was a shock to open up the map and realise there really are NO ROADS across Knoydart.) Continue reading

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Ferry ride from Tarbet to Mallaig

[on the 24th May 2019]

I’m standing by the slipway in Tarbet Bay, waiting with a couple of other people, chilly in the wind, for the 3:30pm ferry to arrive. Then we notice a small green boat has slipped into the bay. An even-smaller orange dinghy detaches from its stern and heads over towards us.

50 little boat approaching, Ruth waiting for ferry in Tarbet, Scotland

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405 Loch Morar to Tarbet

[This walk was completed on the 24th May 2019]

I hop on my Monster bike, and ride down to the place I reached yesterday. It’s not yet 9am – early for me – and there is barely any traffic.

Goodbye bike. Hope the Loch Morar monster doesn’t sneak out the water and steal you.

01 The Monster of Loch Morar, Ruth's coastal walk around Scotland

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404pm Morar towards Tarbet

[This walk was started on the 23rd May 2019]

I catch the bus back from Mallaig to Morar and, as I change my boots beside my car, the level crossing lights begin to flash. A train is coming, but not the ordinary diesel – it’s the Howart’s Express! I catch a photograph as it steams past.

30 Hogwarts Express passing through Morar
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404am Morar to Mallaig

[This walk took place on the 23rd May 2019]

It’s always good to start a walk with no preliminary journey to make, so I have a great sense of satisfaction this morning when I hitch my rucksack on my back, step out of my very-overpriced hotel in Morar, and set off down the road.

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