326 Portpatrick to Leswalt

The harbour at Portpatrick is run by a Community Benefit Society (a charitable set-up). The dock is quiet but active, with several pleasure craft and a handful of working vessels currently moored.

01 Portpatrick harbour, Ruth's coastal walk, Galloway, Scotland

I’m feeling a little frustrated. I got up early and drove to a village called Leswalt – my planned walking destination today. But I must have misread the timetable because I discovered the bus I was hoping to catch doesn’t run on this particular day of the week! So I had to hang about and catch a later bus to Stranraer, and then a second bus to Portpatrick. Continue reading

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325 Ardwell to Portpatrick

I’ve had my confidence badly rattled by several scary encounters with cattle, yesterday and the day before. Today I plan to stick almost entirely to road walking, as I head from Ardwell to Portpatrick. (There is a short distance of coastal path towards the end of my route which I might follow if the way seems clear of bovine bovver.)

Ardwell seems very familiar now, with it’s pretty white cottages.

01 Ardwell cottages, Ruth's coatal walk, The Rhins, Galloway, Scotland

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324 Port Logan to Ardwell

It’s another great day – blue sky, blue seas, no wind – perfect for walking. I catch the bus to Port Logan and set off along the sand.

01 Port Logan Bay, Ruth walking the coast in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland

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323 Drummore to Port Logan

There are only a few of us on the bus to Drummore. One old boy is walking in the same direction as I am – up the hill to Damnaglaur. I wonder why he’s going there. He doesn’t look dressed for farm work.

01 bus passenger to Drummore, Ruth's coastal walk, The Rhins, Scotland

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322 Drummore to Mull of Galloway

There is no bus service to the tip of the Mull of Galloway. So, today I’ve planned a circular walk from Drummore to the Mull and back again.

I park in a tiny village called Damnaglaur. (I’ve chosen this spot to reduce the amount of road-walking I must do at the end of the day.) From here it’s a mile’s walk down the road to Drummore.

01 Ruth Livingstone walking down to Drummore, Mull of Galloway

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321 Sandhead to Drummore

I drive to Drummore and catch the morning bus back to Sandhead. When I get there, the kite surfers are already out on the water.

01 Sandhead kitesurfers, Ruth's coastal walk, The Rhins, Galloway

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320 Glenluce to Sandhead

Two buses needed this morning, and my first bus is running 10 minutes late, so I see the second bus setting off as we pull in. Just missed it. Damn! That means I have two hours to kill in Stranraer, and won’t arrive in Glenluce until nearly midday.

I spend the time walking around Stranraer’s lovely Agnew Park and have coffee and cake in a café. When I finally get there, Glenluce appears to have its own logo – and the design is a little odd-looking.

Glenluce

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319 Port William to Glenluce

By the harbour of Port William, a man leans on a railing, staring out to sea. The plaque in front of him carries a quote from the Welsh poet, W.H. Davies: “What is this life if, full  of care, we have no time to stand and stare.”

01 statue Port William harbour, Ruth's coastal walk, Galloway, Scotland

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318 Isle of Whithorn to Port William

I set off from the Isle of Whithorn in a great mood. It’s a brilliant day for walking. The morning is mild – no wind – and the landscape is flooded with warm sunshine.

01 Isle of Whithorn, Ruth walking the coast of Galloway, Scotland

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317 Garlieston to Isle of Whithorn

Today my planned walk follows core paths from Garlieston to the next village along the coast, a place called Isle of Whithorn.

After my wonderful experience on core paths yesterday, I’m not anticipating any problems. So I set out from Garlieston full of optimism, and walk around the edge of the harbour. Even with the tide out, and with mud everywhere, the bay looks lovely.

01 looking back at Garlieston, Ruth walking the coast of Scotland

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