406 (part 2) Inverie to Barrisdale

[This walk was completed on the 21st June, 2019]

In the morning, I spread my belongings across the bunkhouse bed and begin to pack my rucksack.

Waterproof trousers, my Garmin, a compass, a whistle, emergency bivvy bag, my personal locator beacon, sun block, midge spray, blister plasters, and enough water and snacks to see me through a day and a night. (Although, I sincerely hope the ‘night’ bit won’t be necessary!) Continue reading

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406 (part 1) Inverie to Barrisdale

[My journey to Inverie was made on 20th June 2019. I must confess I messed up the logistics of this trip, and ended up doing this section after I’d completed the rest of Knoydart. But I’ve placed this post at the beginning, as if I’d done it first, which was what I intended.]

I return to Scotland after 3 weeks, feeling rather anxious, because I’m about to tackle the Knoydart peninsula, and I know it will probably be the most difficult section of my walk so far. (It was a shock to open up the map and realise there really are NO ROADS across Knoydart.) Continue reading

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Ferry ride from Tarbet to Mallaig

[on the 24th May 2019]

I’m standing by the slipway in Tarbet Bay, waiting with a couple of other people, chilly in the wind, for the 3:30pm ferry to arrive. Then we notice a small green boat has slipped into the bay. An even-smaller orange dinghy detaches from its stern and heads over towards us.

50 little boat approaching, Ruth waiting for ferry in Tarbet, Scotland

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405 Loch Morar to Tarbet

[This walk was completed on the 24th May 2019]

I hop on my Monster bike, and ride down to the place I reached yesterday. It’s not yet 9am – early for me – and there is barely any traffic.

Goodbye bike. Hope the Loch Morar monster doesn’t sneak out the water and steal you.

01 The Monster of Loch Morar, Ruth's coastal walk around Scotland

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404pm Morar towards Tarbet

[This walk was started on the 23rd May 2019]

I catch the bus back from Mallaig to Morar and, as I change my boots beside my car, the level crossing lights begin to flash. A train is coming, but not the ordinary diesel – it’s the Howart’s Express! I catch a photograph as it steams past.

30 Hogwarts Express passing through Morar
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404am Morar to Mallaig

[This walk took place on the 23rd May 2019]

It’s always good to start a walk with no preliminary journey to make, so I have a great sense of satisfaction this morning when I hitch my rucksack on my back, step out of my very-overpriced hotel in Morar, and set off down the road.

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403pm Back of Keppoch to Morar

I walk along the road from the farm, through an area with a strange name – it’s called Back of Keppoch – past campsites and new buildings, until I reach the B8008. Here I turn left and continue northwards, walking against a stiff breeze and following the road across a stretch of flat land.

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403am Arisaig to Back of Keppoch

[This walk was completed on the 22nd May 2019]

There’s only one other person waiting to board the train at Morar station. It’s a very short ride to Arisaig, and I never get a chance to buy a ticket. (I’m not happy about this, partly because I’m an honest person, but mainly because train companies have a good excuse to close stations if it appears no-one is using them.)

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402pm Lochailort to Arisaig

[This walk was completed on the 21st May 2019]

I walk through trees, sometimes in shade, sometimes in sunshine. Glad to be off the road, this is a wonderful track. The woods look old, although there are signs of recent logging activity.

41 woodland walk on track, Ruth walking to Arisaig, Scotland

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402am Lochailort to Arisaig

[This walk was completed on the 21st May, 2019]

I catch the train to Lochailort station. Sadly, it’s not a steam train, just an ordinary diesel. Back on the A830, and I anticipate easy road walking as I head towards Arisaig.

01 Lochailort station, Ruth's coastal walk to Arisaig, Scotland

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